1 Topic by Ski52

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Topic: Everything was fine, until....

... I changed the glass today.  Went from plain old window glass to a piece of thicker tempered (old scanner top) glass. 
Before I started I was printing ABS @ 210/95 1 skirt & no brim - had to almost pry it off the glass.  New glass - 220/98 1 skirt 3 brim, and it doesn't stick worth a hoot.  My old bed limits out at about 100  - 105. I could go back to the old window glass, I guess.....  I also removed the old Kapton tape, haven't put new on yet - will probably have to readjust all again. 
What did I change that mattered so much?   Does tempered glass make that much of a difference?
Suggestions greatly appreciated...

Thanx
Ski

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2 Reply by Ski52 (edited by Ski52 2015-09-09 21:32:01)

  • Ski52
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Re: Everything was fine, until....

I may have complained too soon!  Just printed a couple of small things for SHMBO and I almost couldn't get them off the glass.  I thing I may leave the Kapton tape off and see...  Guess I really have to let it heat up.

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3 Reply by heartless

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Re: Everything was fine, until....

the thicker things are, the longer it will take to get fully heated up - the thermistor may read hot, but it takes a little to get the heat soaked through completely. I found this out when I upgraded the aluminum plate for mine - went thicker (4+ mm) trying to eliminate warping - takes a good 20 mins to get it fully heated up with the old stock heat pad, but it does get there eventually.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

4 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Everything was fine, until....

also longer to cool

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

5 Reply by Ski52

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Re: Everything was fine, until....

The glass difference is slight...  2.3mm plain 2.9mm tempered.  Used to be able to print when the indicator hit 95C, now I have to wait another 10 -15 min.  Like I said, I almost destroyed a couple of prints trying to get them off the glass with a razor blade.
Does anyone know of a thermal adhesive or double sided tape that will hold the heat pad on another piece of machined aluminum?  I think my plate is developing a slight warp.

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6 Reply by heartless

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Re: Everything was fine, until....

I used a high temp copper gasket stuff (meant for head gaskets in auto applications) when i transplanted mine - seems to be working fine so far and that was several months ago.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

7 Reply by Ski52

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Re: Everything was fine, until....

I will keep that in mind... Thanx 
Also found 3M 468m is good to 400F, but it is rather expensive. 
I just may replace the deck with a machined piece from where I work, if I do, it will be substantially thicker than the original.

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8 Reply by heartless

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Re: Everything was fine, until....

yeah, that is what I did, too - 4+ mm thick - takes forever for it to get hot with that small heat pad, but once it does, it holds it nice.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1