26 (edited by n2ri 2015-07-13 20:56:37)

Re: Glas Bed SD2

yes only need a thin cover of hairspray on one surface then place glass on sticky side lined up with bed (I also used emery cloth all around edges of glass to take the razor sharpness off to help prevent cutting myself during use)

then turn bed heater on till it reaches temp (SD2 takes several mins for this each heat up cycle) once temp is reached turn bed heater off and let cool to room temp. repeat this 2 more times and it will stay for long time unless lots of sideways force is applied or pried on and broken. I have printed dozens of items with mine that way and only had to clean or reapply glue stick some times which I use for good adherence of ABS prints. most prints pop loose upon cooling a few had to have razor slid under to loosen which took some glue stick off needing reapplied.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

27

Re: Glas Bed SD2

The spray has Dried ! smile
Only took about 2 days !

It appears that only about 1/3 of the glass-plate is Stuck tho,
the other 2/3 is air-bubbles. sad

I will try a large print today to see how it holds,
with none of those **** clips on it . LOL tongue

CTC Printer
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28

Re: Glas Bed SD2

The glass Stayed in place ! ! !

Did a large print, of a Dremel-bit-holder, with no problems.
I'm sure Glad to not need the **** Clips anymore ! tongue

CTC Printer
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29 (edited by EagleSeven 2015-07-14 19:42:45)

Re: Glas Bed SD2

Here's a picture showing the air bubbles under bed-glass.
The stuck section goes from lower-left to upper-right of the pic,
all the other areas are Air. 

You can also see the Fan-grills I added, so filament would not get in fan-blades.
I printed the grills, downloaded  from Thingiverse.
Added plastic screen behind grills, which is also Needed.

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30

Re: Glas Bed SD2

Those bubbles you are referring too are a pretty good indication as to how warped that bed is.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

31

Re: Glas Bed SD2

wardjr wrote:

Those bubbles you are referring too are a pretty good indication as to how warped that bed is.

Yes, That's what I was thinking Also yikes

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32

Re: Glas Bed SD2

EagleSeven wrote:
wardjr wrote:

Those bubbles you are referring too are a pretty good indication as to how warped that bed is.

Yes, That's what I was thinking Also yikes

I was looking at your image and it looks like your right nozzle is higher than the left.. Have you tried printing from it yet? I found the extruder on my right slips and I have a new all metal set to replace both with on their way. That is spring loaded so I can control how much force it puts on the filament.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

33 (edited by EagleSeven 2015-07-14 20:58:56)

Re: Glas Bed SD2

Yes, the left one is higher.
I moved the left nozzle up, out of the way, since I've only been doing single color objects lately,
using right nozzle.
Will lower it again if needed.

I did do some 2 color objects just to test using both, and they worked great. smile

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34 (edited by n2ri 2015-07-15 06:25:15)

Re: Glas Bed SD2

this is not a Solidoodle 2 as topic states. also how would filament get into those fans? looks like a duel extruder flash forge type with rectangle bed

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

35 (edited by EagleSeven 2015-07-15 13:01:06)

Re: Glas Bed SD2

n2ri wrote:

this is not a Solidoodle 2 as topic states. also how would filament get into those fans? looks like a duel extruder flash forge type with rectangle bed

Sorry, I thought we were talking about 'adding glass to bed' of printers.
When filament is removed from extruder assembly, it can easily drop down into fan-blades,
the picture is of a CTC-printer, which is similar to the Flash-forge and Makerbot printers.

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36

Re: Glas Bed SD2

no problem I was just giving tips on this on a Solidoodle 2 like mine. so was surprised seeing pic of dif make. lol

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

37

Re: Glas Bed SD2

EagleSeven wrote:

Here's a picture showing the air bubbles under bed-glass.
The stuck section goes from lower-left to upper-right of the pic,
all the other areas are Air. 

You can also see the Fan-grills I added, so filament would not get in fan-blades.
I printed the grills, downloaded  from Thingiverse.
Added plastic screen behind grills, which is also Needed.

You are over cautious. Unless you are flash even if you remove the filament in a hurry it cools solid before the filament fully clears the extruder entry. It would be impossible to get molten filament into those fans.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

38

Re: Glas Bed SD2

carl_m1968 wrote:
EagleSeven wrote:

Here's a picture showing the air bubbles under bed-glass.
The stuck section goes from lower-left to upper-right of the pic,
all the other areas are Air. 

You can also see the Fan-grills I added, so filament would not get in fan-blades.
I printed the grills, downloaded  from Thingiverse.
Added plastic screen behind grills, which is also Needed.

You are over cautious. Unless you are flash even if you remove the filament in a hurry it cools solid before the filament fully clears the extruder entry. It would be impossible to get molten filament into those fans.

No, the problem is that filament hits fan-blades and brakes them.
I already had to replace a fan because of that. sad

CTC Printer
Modifications Added

39

Re: Glas Bed SD2

EagleSeven wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:
EagleSeven wrote:

Here's a picture showing the air bubbles under bed-glass.
The stuck section goes from lower-left to upper-right of the pic,
all the other areas are Air. 

You can also see the Fan-grills I added, so filament would not get in fan-blades.
I printed the grills, downloaded  from Thingiverse.
Added plastic screen behind grills, which is also Needed.

You are over cautious. Unless you are flash even if you remove the filament in a hurry it cools solid before the filament fully clears the extruder entry. It would be impossible to get molten filament into those fans.

No, the problem is that filament hits fan-blades and brakes them.
I already had to replace a fan because of that. sad


Well thats just your fault then and I guess you would need them. I move my guide tubes so the filament hangs over the back of the machine when I am changing filament.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

40

Re: Glas Bed SD2

Now that I have Fan Grills, I no longer have to worry about it,
Just let them Flop around anywhere tongue

CTC Printer
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