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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Glas Bed SD2
Hi Guys,
i have a 20 x 20 cm of 2mm Glass here can i use this as a GlasBed?
and do i have to remove the Organe tape which is on my Heated Bed?
What is the max. tempreture which i can use with the glas bed?
do i need aceton ? or Hairspray also with the glasbed??
thx 4 answer
I added 6"x9"x 3/32" glass to plate . (Had it cut at hardware-store)
(Don't think I would use any glass thinner than that)
Had to adjust height of nozzles for added glass.
I did Not add anything else or remove anything from plate, left same as from factory.
I just use metal clips to hold it in place.
It's normal glass, not special-tempered glass,
and I've had it up to 100 deg C , about 40 or 50 times, with no problems.
I use hair-spray , can even spray it on when glass is Hot.
Be sure to let hairspray Dry before starting print.
Easy to clean the glass with wet cloth.
It's worked great ! 
last question on this
Heating up ur bed and letting it cool down than print or is ur heated bed at tempreture during the print?
like 1. Heated Bed to 100° than hairspray -> cooling to ~20°(room tempreture) -> printing?
Or
Heated bet to 100° than Hairspray -> cooling to ~80°
smth like this? sry 4 bad englisch
You want to print it with the bed still hot.
last question on this
Heating up ur bed and letting it cool down than print or is ur heated bed at tempreture during the print?
like 1. Heated Bed to 100° than hairspray -> cooling to ~20°(room tempreture) -> printing?
Or
Heated bet to 100° than Hairspray -> cooling to ~80°smth like this? sry 4 bad englisch
Yes, for most objects you want to keep bed hot during complete print.
It's best to spray before bed gets hot, so it will not stress the glass and you want hairspray completely dry before printing.
I added 6"x9"x 3/32" glass to plate . (Had it cut at hardware-store)
(Don't think I would use any glass thinner than that)
Had to adjust height of nozzles for added glass.
I did Not add anything else or remove anything from plate, left same as from factory.
I just use metal clips to hold it in place.
It's normal glass, not special-tempered glass,
and I've had it up to 100 deg C , about 40 or 50 times, with no problems.
I use hair-spray , can even spray it on when glass is Hot.
Be sure to let hairspray Dry before starting print.
Easy to clean the glass with wet cloth.It's worked great !
the metal clips will eventually cause the glass to warp - try this...
remove the clips and the glass...lower your bed away from the print head
with the bed cool, spray the stock heat bed with hairspray
spray the bottom of you glass with hairspray
Not a lot on either, but a nice even coat..
Place the glass on the stock heat bed
heat the bed to around 60C and let cool for a couple of cycles
the glass will not move around, but you can still pry it loose fairly easily if you need to
put those metal clips to better use keeping bags of snacks from getting stale, or something of that nature.
First thing I did was ad glass right on top the tape use binder clips and hairspray. been printing almost a year . SD4 with pla.
Tin
spray the stock heat bed with hairspray
spray the bottom of you glass with hairspray
Thanks for Info,
I thought about doing that but was worried that might make glass to difficult to remove if needed.
I will try it !
I never really Liked the Clips there anyway !
!!! How long does it take for Spray to Dry,
between bed-plate and glass ???
I've had it heated for over an hour and it's Still not Dry ! 
I still have the **** clips on, holding it until dry! LOL 
How hot? It really takes three heat/cool cycles at about 100. Should only take you about ten minutes but the cool cycle is critical.
I was just getting Impatient , since I wanted to print a Fan-Duct, NOW . LOL
I was surprised how long it is taking, since spray dries so fast on Top of glass .
Evidently spray needs good air-flow to dry, like some other glues.
It's been over 2 hours , at 100 C, and still not completely dry,
but it is almost dry now, I think !
Once it cools completely it'll dry fine.
you must have put it on pretty heavy if it still wasnt dry after 2 hours!
on the rare occasion I take my glass off, just a light misting on each piece - just enough to lightly dampen the surface, set the glass in place, I usually only need one heat/cool cycle, and I am set to go.
and you only need to bring it up to temp, then shut it off & let it cool - completely - repeat if needed. you dont need to let it stay at temp for long.
I also printed one of the Z switch adjusting screw brackets off Thingiverse to get the home bed hieght set correct without running out of room on screw. and I still keep a thin layer of glue stick on glass when printing ABS. works great
the Z screw bracket is longer so it extends adjustment range
you must have put it on pretty heavy if it still wasnt dry after 2 hours!
Well, I did not think so, but I did spray Both the glass and the Bed-plate,
so both wet, probably Was a 'Bit Much'
I left it heated for about 3 hours and let it cool over Night,
and it's Still Not Dry !
Looks like it will take Days to dry, if it Ever Does !
Just pull it off and wipe some of the excess away or let the surfaces get tacky.
Just pull it off and wipe some of the excess away or let the surfaces get tacky.
I'm worried that I might take Too much off doing that.
Sure don't want it coming loose in the middle of a print.
I'll wait a few more days ...... weeks...... years ! LOL
It'll stick and won't come off during a print once it is dry. But, if it is still wet that will cause it to slide around.
What brand hairspray are you using?
I used Aqua-net, extra-super-hold.
It works Great to hold print objects.
That's the right stuff.
It was Still Not Dry,
So, I put all the Clips back on so I could print the Fan-duct.
I don't think spray under glass is going to work very well,
because I see large air bubbles forming, as it dries.
The bubbles will act as shims leveling the glass. I seriously think you have way to much spray on there though.
It was Still Not Dry,
So, I put all the Clips back on so I could print the Fan-duct.I don't think spray under glass is going to work very well,
because I see large air bubbles forming, as it dries.
As Ward says the bubbles and liquid are self leveling. So even if the bed is slightly unlevel the glass should be nearly as gravity will cause the liquid to spread out evenly under the weight of the glass. Then it will dry. I just did my CTC with hairspray and a mirror as others suggested here and it was dry in ten minutes and is holding very well. I just sprayed a coat of hairspray on the back of the mirror to the point of it being wet then laid it down and ran a few heat and cool cycles.
I prefer using mirrors as it helps with adjusting bed to nozzle clearance.
Thanks, I may try a Mirror sometime.
It does sound like a good idea
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