SD Press - Under the Kimono (Page 3 of 12)

JP2 looks like it might be the pins for an ISP programmer. Using one of those would be the simplest way to read the existing firmware (unless solidoodle locked it, in which case, you can't read it at all). In any case, if those are ISP pins, one of them is a reset pin, so you ought to be able to use that to do a reset.

I would also like to know what that is doing, my first thought when I saw it was that it was possibly reading the g-code from the computer and acting as the input buttons (the Marlin_main.cpp file calls the function read_pressFirmware() in the main loop (defined on line 613). The function basically checks for button presses for the following pins: PRESS_HOMEXY, PRESS_CANCEL_PRINT and PRESS_PAUSE_PRINT. If this code is used as it is shown on the Press, the AT90USB1286 would be looking for these inputs on pins that have no buttons. The thing I don't like about this theory is that it seems like the AT90USB1286 would be more than capable of handling the g-code itself, and adding a second microcontroller just so you don't have to change the code to get inputs from somewhere besides buttons is major overkill.

Some stuff about programming the Firmware:
Don't think this is useful for the Press, but here's Solidoodle's page on firmware loading: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … 0-Firmware

By luck I came across this page about programming an ATTINY2313 using an Arduino Uno. It's possible (though unlikely) that they've set something like this up for programming the ATTINY2313 from the AT90USB1286.
http://www.ernstc.dk/arduino/2313.htm

***Disclaimer: I misread MacGyverX's quote and thought that he said the firmware was old and not used for the Press. The following is documenting things in the code I found to show how it is for the Press. I'm posting it for reference sake and because I hate to delete it.***

In the .zip file they have for the Press is an Arduino project file called SolidoodlePress_11262014.ino. It contains all of the .cpp and .h files in the zip, though the SD card and LCD stuff isn't enabled.

In the Configuration.h file (line 85) there is a #define for MOTHERBOARD, which is the value 81. Above this is a commented list for the different values available for this #define. 81 is this comment (line 69 in code):
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)

Then just below this on line 89 is the following #define:

// Define this to set a custom name for your generic Mendel,
#define CUSTOM_MENDEL_NAME "Solidoodle_Press"

It would appear that this is the firmware used on the Press at some point.

Here are the factory hex files for both MCU's

http://public.mlabs.us/Press/firmware/F … SB1286.hex < AT90USB1286.hex
http://public.mlabs.us/Press/firmware/F … NY2313.hex < ATTINY2313.hex

The right header is for the ATTINY2313 (Pin 1 is right) the left header is for the AT90USB1286 (Pin 1 is left). The ATTINY2313 can be pulled directly (no jumpers) but the AT90USB1286 needs a jumper in JP1 in order for you to pull the firmware.

How did you remove the glass to adjust the screws?  My bed's glass is firmly in place and it looks like the metal clamps holding it have been crimped with pliers.  https://i.imgur.com/8KZ1lSA.jpg

Was your hobbed gear spinning on the stepper shaft? I've got knocking in the extruder but no extrusion problems.

Here's my start/ending gcode for Slic3r.

Start :
G28 ; home all axis
G1 Z-5.0 F5000 ; Move platform down 5mm
M565 Z-1
G29 ; Bed Check - Z-Offset

End:
G28 X0 Y0  ; home X axis and y axis
G90
G91
M104 S0 ; kill extruder temperature
M140 S0 ; kill bed temperature
M84 ; disable motors

This way jobs sent to OctoPrint will Home all Axis and check the Z-offset right before the print.

Works really well.

Mine was easy to remove when cool.  Once things are heated up, it is not so easy, due to the metal pieces expanding, I imagine.

I had a print going last night and noticed bouncing when it was lowering the bed after printing.

On my unit, movement on the Z results in lots of vibration.  I was poking around trying to figure out how to level the bed and felt the Z rails, they're completely ungreased.  I'm going to lube them up and see if that improves the situation.

After days of tweaking and reseting to factory and trying again. I am still having issues with the extruder stopping after 10~15mins.
It would start okay (proper adhesion to the bed. Proper filament width on the bed) then mid way It would just grind the filament to a fine dust.

Things I have one.

Reset the controller to stock (M502) then save the defaults (M500) Just for shits and giggles restart the unit (power cycle it via the main power button) re-run the z-offset/bed leveling tool. Pick the offset. Then run a job with G29 in the start code. It goes thru all the motions, but once again couple layers in- Its snowing filament in the enclosure. I've upped the temp to as high as 270C no dice. I've used a small sample from every filament I have in-house (18 different color spools all ABS) same deal.

I've taken apart the extruder assembly you can't adjust the tension (it's fixed) I've cleaned the hobbed gear (100s of times) I've pre-feed some filament with z 100mm away to get a 'running start' with the filament. I've done everything I can on the software side.

I've think I've done everything I can to try to fix this. Any suggestions?

In my case temp seems irrelevant. This is a bit frustrating. It's behaving as if there was a clog. At first I was thinking maybe the bed was too close. Going thru the motions to correct didn't fix it. I am down to this last issue (As far as I know, Who knows what else will pop up after this get fixed.)

Pushing it in by hand works. Comes out as fast as I can push it in. (Hey-Oh!)

MacGyverX - if it isn't too much trouble, could you separate the extruder from the carriage, and take some photos/dimensions of the mounting holes on the carriage? I'd like to help design a mount for it.