Capn:
Your situation sounds a bit similar to mine, although in my case, it is clear that something actually heated up and fried the connectors (they are distorted and blackened). The resistor wires came out of the connectors, perhaps because the connectors were softened by the heat. I shoved the resistor wires back into the connectors, and then used a pair of pliers to actually crimp the entire connector. That worked for a few hours, after which the resistor failed (resistance went from 5 to about 33, at which point it stopped being a heater).
I tried soldering the resistor wires to the connectors, but the solder failed (again, probably because of the heat that the resistor is supposed to put out). Some have had success making a mechanical connection with the resistor wires (wrapping wires around the ends) and then soldering a short wire onto them and then plugging those wires into a connector.
Pololu sells jumper wires that work quite well, such as those on this page: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/65
You would select a jumper with a male and female on both ends, cut off the male, solder that end to the resistor, and then plug the female into the existing connector (the one that runs to the controller. Or you could run these wires all the way to the controller. You would need both a 12" and a 6" wire to make it all the way to the controller. I am currently using such wires to run the hot end on the only Solidoodle that still works here.
I also have some hot ends heading my way. I intend to return the two failed units so that Solidoodle can try to figure out what the failure mode is. They know that something is wrong in a few cases, but are not sure what that might be. Could be that some resistors are a bit low (meaning that they heat up too much); could be that some power supplies are a bit high (again increasing the heat).
I know how frustrating this can be!
Jon