26

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

InkImp wrote:

I waisted most of my day trying to figure this out myself. then I found this when I was pulling my hair out. you can not believe how happy I am right now to get this to work. I LOVE YOU.


Hehe glad to hear but lets keep it proffesional...;)

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

27

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

Hey i'm new to 3D printing and i am using the Da Vinci 2.0 with stock firmware. I spent hours leveling my bed so i know its not a leveling issue, but when ever i print circles/cylinders they come out warped and looking like ovals. This is only a problem with circles/cylinders under 1" in diameter and is very confusing! Also my printer wont print details ( letters or small pieces) and i believe it is due to the extruded plastic being too wide. How do i fix the circle problem and adjust the bed (or what ever is wrong) so i can print in detail? PLEASE HELP ASAP!!!

28 (edited by scobo 2014-12-26 08:11:04)

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

Oval circle fixes - http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-peersu … -not-round
To summarize, check the tension of all your belts including the shorter one above the stepper motor in the top right at the back. Check your bearing mounts, there's a good chance one or more is broken. And it's a good idea to shim the white pulleys.

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

29

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

How do I level the bed in Repetier firmware? (sorry if this is a dumb question)

30 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-01-05 02:56:17)

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

keyblade4321 wrote:

How do I level the bed in Repetier firmware? (sorry if this is a dumb question)


Same way, just start a print and as soon as it starts printing the skirt/brim/raft/ or whatever your first bottom layer consist of, turn off the power and proceed with the process as if you where on stock.

However, Repetier firmware does require some additional setup on first run aside from bed leveling. I would suggest readiing and following this post and do the parts you have not done from flashing of the new firmware.

http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-firmwa … issues#442

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

31

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

Thank you for this thread, it will save what little hair I have left.
I am a 76 year old man starting to go through another child hood.  I bought my xyz duo as a Christmas present to me.  It did a couple of prints
Sort of okay, then it started making a mess or not sticking to bed.  I tried the automatic calibration to no avail, it told me to clean the extruder,
which did nothing. I can see that the bed can be knocked out of calibration very easy, so I suggest doing a calibration every few prints.

32

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

My First Post.

Thanks for all the intel here on calibration issues.

I have had my Duo for 3 days and it has been an "Experience".

There is 0 support from XYZ Printing. The online site for Firmware updates is Offline and the support ticket page is broken and the Submit button does nothing on both IE and Safari.

I have emailed them.

Below is the content of what I tried to put in a support ticket.

Any advice from Forum members would be appreciated.

Cheers

Unpacked Printer

Downloaded test Print Job from Gallery Dual colour model.

Unable to update Firmware from Mac. Set up Windows to download firmware.

"says oops online service not available try again later". Been trying for 3 days same response.

Printed Test job and Extruder 1 had filament jam. Re loaded filament it was OK.

Extruder 2 then had filament jam. Could not reload filament would not extrude.

Unloaded filament and found that filament feeder had scratched the filament and could no longer pull the filament.  Unloaded Filament, cut out scratched filament and re loaded.

It would then reload and extrude.

Printed test job again and had same issues. Filament would not extrude after contact with print bed.

Issue found. Extruder too close to print bed. Print bed blocks extruder flow and filament feeder scratches the filament try to feed until it can no longer get a grip on the filament.

Issue print bed out of calibration. Assume moved in shipment.

Ran Calibration utility to get reading on print bed.

Reported 164, Err, 62.

Cleaned contact point at calibration point 2 as per user manual. It did not fix the Err.

Adjusted print bed to calibrate. The is either an electrical or mechanical issue at calibration point 2.

I spent 14 hours and many calibration attempts to calibrate.

The issue is the calibration  at point 2 will only make electrical contact if point 2 is 160 higher than point 1 and point 3. That edge of the print bed will only make electrical contact if angled up from rest of bed.

By moving the calibration nut by the width of one of the thread grips on the screw it will go from 160 to Err.

When the extruder attempts to locate the calibration point 2 it does not land on the surface but the edge of the calibration pad. Hence only makes contact when the edge is angled by greater than 160.

So it is impossible to calibrate via the calibration utility.

I did notice that the spring on the adjustment point for point 2 has a different spring tension from the other 2 springs. It is a softer spring and does not hold the bed very tightly as the other 2 do.

I then manually calibrated the printer at all 3 calibration points by hand, with the printer off and manually moving the heads and print bed the same way as the automatic routine.

I used a 100 feeler gauge to do the calibration. (On the assumption that the factory calibration was as advised in the manual as 100,100,100)

I then ran the auto calibrate to check the success of the cold manual adjustment.

It reported 101, Err, 96. The Err due to the issue with calibration point 2 described above.

I ran the calibration utility a number of times and these numbers changed but within +-004

I retried the print test and it now work  as expected without issue.

The questions I have are.

Is the soft Spring the issue with calibration Point 2.
Is the print bed out of alignment with the Extruder mechanism causing it to miss the calibration point?
Will not having a saved calibration reference point cause me issue continuing with print operations?
Would a firmware update correct this problem. If so How do I perform a firmware update with the update service not online?
     
The software update site works OK for Windows but not Firmware.

For the Mac it does not recognise the hotfix for Mac OSX Yosemite. This has to be downloaded manually and installed.

Please advise the answers to the questions and what I should do next.

Cheers Brian Roberts.

33

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

I got confused by the original post because I have a 2.0. in this machine the two near the corners are in the front. The way my prints are coming out after using the paper is OK but the left hot end seems to be a few microns higher and produces blobs when the right one isn't. I have a set of feeler gauges that I can use. Should I set it up specifically for each resolution print I am doing? For instance, use a .05 gauge when printing .1 resolution and .2 gauge when printing .4 resolution?

Back to the issue os the hot ends not being the same height. I have not been able to find an article that describes how this might be adjusted. Is there one?

34

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

scobo wrote:

Nice post Carl !
I'd just like to add that there is an Android app available on Amazon which will save you a LOT of time with the initial auto calibration. It calculates the amount you need to turn each screw to get a pass with your chosen offset.

a lot of time will be spent searching for this '3d printer bed level' fails so far

35

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

pricecg44 wrote:
scobo wrote:

Nice post Carl !
I'd just like to add that there is an Android app available on Amazon which will save you a LOT of time with the initial auto calibration. It calculates the amount you need to turn each screw to get a pass with your chosen offset.

a lot of time will be spent searching for this '3d printer bed level' fails so far

Try "davinci calibrator". wink

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

36

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

cheers, yes just found that myself, not long search.

37

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

First of all thank you to all that help out all of us that are just starting out!!!!!!! First time 3D printing here...... I'm having anow that I have the bed all leveled out. I had a heck of a time, tried the auto calibration and I was getting a ERR on #2 the front left every time. Tried to calibrate for a couple hours!!! So I started to look at my machine noticed when the extruders were in the back of the table the back side of the extruders would rub on the back plate that is above Z-AXIS screw. The Y-AXIS rail mounts (where the belt hooks on) the sides where off by 5mm. Got the two sides evened out and now my circles are nice and round. Thanks again

38 (edited by pricecg44 2015-01-25 22:30:50)

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

Beware The manual levelling approach.

I failed far worse than the 30 attempts of the auto calab.
My bed is so far out of whack the screws become loose.
It does not solve the problem of quessing which way to turn the screws.
And it incurs upon you to do the level measuring trying to get the 0.15 feeler blade under the nozzle, which at least the auto calab gives you.

Sorry I am too screw-turning clueless to do this manually.

I will try to get the bed level, and hope not to get 999 values in the auto calab.
So my hope is the android app 'davinci calibrator' which I have installed on my galaxy ace, and gives screw turning numbers. That app would encode the fulcrum of the bed mounting triangle and the measuring offset points, which you have to imagine on quessing screw-turning.
Hopefully that will give less than 30 attempts at getting in range.

39 (edited by scobo 2015-01-25 20:06:23)

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

pricecg44 wrote:

DO NOT ATTEMPT The manual levelling approach.

I failed far worse than the 30 attempts of the auto calab.
My bed is so far out of whack the screws become loose.
It does not solve the problem of quessing which way to turn the screws.
And it incurs upon you to do the level measuring trying to get the 0.15 feeler blade under the nozzle, which at least the auto calab gives you.

Sorry I am too screw-turning clueless to do this manually.

I will try to get the bed level, and hope not to get 999 values in the auto calab.
So my hope is the android app 'davinci calibrator' which I have installed in gives numbers.
Hopefully that will give less than 30 attempts at getting in range.

Dude, I've no idea where you're going wrong but telling people not to attempt manual levelling isn't helping anyone.
If you follow Carl's instructions to the letter, it should be fairly straightforward.
Re which direction to turn the screws, turn to the right to lower the bed and to the left to raise it.

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

40

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

scobo wrote:
pricecg44 wrote:

DO NOT ATTEMPT The manual levelling approach.

I failed far worse than the 30 attempts of the auto calab.
My bed is so far out of whack the screws become loose.
It does not solve the problem of quessing which way to turn the screws.
And it incurs upon you to do the level measuring trying to get the 0.15 feeler blade under the nozzle, which at least the auto calab gives you.

Sorry I am too screw-turning clueless to do this manually.

I will try to get the bed level, and hope not to get 999 values in the auto calab.
So my hope is the android app 'davinci calibrator' which I have installed in gives numbers.
Hopefully that will give less than 30 attempts at getting in range.

Dude, I've no idea where you're going wrong but telling people not to attempt manual levelling isn't helping anyone.
If you follow Carl's instructions to the letter, it should be fairly straightforward.
Re which direction to turn the screws, turn to the right to lower the bed and to the left to raise it.

Fellow dude, have you tried this?  How did this method give you better visualisation of the fulcrum as you turn the screws to get each placed extruder close. At least with the auto calab you get a clue as to the overall bed alignment.

41 (edited by scobo 2015-01-25 20:40:24)

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

Use the app to get a pass with the auto cal. Set a target of around 150. This should get you in the right ball park. The app should work within 3 or 4 attempts.
Then, if your prints don't stick, use the manual method to fine tune as the auto cal is likely to set the nozzle a fraction too high.
Once you get it right, you'll be able to tell by the look of the first layer whether your bed is properly levelled or not.

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

42

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

But this still evades the flaw of the manual method: which screw to turn which way?

43 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-01-26 03:47:03)

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

pricecg44 wrote:

But this still evades the flaw of the manual method: which screw to turn which way?


There is no issue with this manual method. You are in fact the only person that has had an issue with it. Until about one maybe two years ago this was the only method to level beds. There was no such thing as an auto feature. Now I am not sure what your issue is but the instructions are very clear. It tells you to move the head to the back left corner and adjust the screw on THAT corner so the gauge just drags. Not sure why you would adjust a screw on a corner you are not currently measuring. It then tells you to go to right back corner and repeat the steps and then to front middle and do the same. Then it says to go around one more time just to confirm.

This procedure you say to never try is the proven method used for years by ALL 3D printer operators. I have been printing for over 6 years and even started on one of the original Makerbot Cupcakes. One of the oldest consumer DIY kits you can buy.

If you ran autocal after you did the manual procedure then that is your issue as autocal stores the resulting measurement as the new home position. 

As for which way just turn the screw and see if the bed area below the nozzle moves up or down. Then you know. But to make it simple for you, when facing the printer turning the front edge of the screw to your left will raise the bed and turning it to your right will lower the bed.

Whatever you may be doing wrong, only you seem be doing it as no one else has had any issue with this procedure and I have received many thanks for it. I would suggest reading it once carefully and then following it to the letter once again.

The only screw you need to adjust is the one below the head at the time depending on where the head is.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

44

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

Ok I'll try head near screw, only rotating the screw near the head. Thanks for your help. Sorry for the frustrated outburst.

45 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-01-26 03:44:43)

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

pricecg44 wrote:

Ok I'll try head near screw, only rotating the screw near the head. Thanks for your help. Sorry for the frustrated outburst.


Also as I noted in the other thread, if you use the auto process the values you get are in reverse order from the screws. The value on the left is for the right screw. The value on the right is for the left screw and of course the center is center. The left and right also pivot on the center so when you raise one side the opposite will lower slightly.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

46

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

Hi all, was looking for solutions to a little frustration with my printer and stumbled on this forum as a result. 

In general very happy with the printer and have a couple of hundred hours on it now (is the dual extruder model), and it works very well for small to mid size models.  Am having issues though when trying to print large.  It will almost always start to lift on the rear of the print bed and often the front too.

I was using the auto method previously, but have now used the posted manual method.  What did surprise me was how much gap there was on the back corners when the front was indicated correctly.  So ran through the manual method and got a nice "drag" on the piece of paper on each corner.  But still see a lift on the edges.

What I am suspecting now is the heated platform is going to be cooler at the edges which is causing it to lift.  Has anyone been able to print a large surface that prints front to back successfully?  Am now at the point where have modified the design of my model in order to print it vertically and stop wasting filament with failed attempts.

47

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

I printed a 108 x 85.2 square at 8.9 mm thick and 100% fill and got no lifting. But I also use a feeler gauge of .05 to set my bed with. As long as you are not causing back pressure on the extruder evident by clicking sometimes then you can never really be too close. The closer the better as it maximizes the surface area of the first layer for a better stick.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

48

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

Hi everyone

I am going crazy but i cannot get the calibration right, The values that I get now are +265, +325, +355 and  I am unable to understand how can I get them to what they are supposed to be. Also I am unable to understand what does the rotating of the 3 screws actually means and results in.

Someone please help

49

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

carl_m1968 wrote:

I see post after post here about people pulling out their hair over this printers auto bed level system. In my opinion and others as well this system is broken and not reliable at all. So I have decided to share my process that others use as well with all of you new Da Vinci owners to help save your marriage and life.

First we WILL use the auto level system, ONCE to get a passing result that we can store. Once we get a pass, and you store that value forget about ever running the feature again. All this initial run is for is to get you in the ballpark and to get the machine to a position it thinks is proper home.

Now that you spent several hours getting a pass we will continue. You will need to start a print. One of the demo prints is fine. Keep an eye on the printer as you don't want it to start before you are there to take action. As soon as it warms up and begins to print, watch it. As the head moves over the print bed and begins the purge line turn off the power. The purge line is the small line it prints in one direction and then prints longer in the opposite direction. It is used to visually verify a good stick and to get a good flow of filament.

So now the printer is off and the head should be setting over the print bed and you should be able to move the head carefully over any area of the bed by hand. Grab the head towards the top where the filament feeds in to avoid the hot surfaces at the bottom when you do this.

Move the head to the back left corner about an inch (25mm) from the adjusting screw and the back edge of the bed. Lay a piece of standard typing/printer paper on the bed and slide it under the nozzle. Again careful not to get burned . The nozzle will be hot enough to burn you for up to thirty minutes or more. You could also cut the paper down to a strip for easier handling.

Once the paper is under the nozzle adjust the bed height so you can just feel the paper being grabbed by the nozzle as you slide the paper around. Once you do this on the back left, repeat on the back right. Then move to the front middle and repeat there.

Go back to the back left, back right and front again to verify the height is still the same. Tweak if necessary. Once you are satisfied with the adjustments manually move the head by hand back to the home position. That is the very back right corner over the white drip pan.

Turn the power on the machine back on and go to the menu on the display and select home all axis. Then run another print. Stay with it this time with your hand on the power switch just in case so you can stop it if it gets snagged up for some reason.

If you followed this procedure and use it on a regular basis you will find leveling much easier and faster. Just remember to always level while the head and bed are hot for the best results. Once again try also not to get burned by the lower portion of the head.

Mods/Admin: Please consider making this a sticky to help out new owners of this great machine.

50

Re: Bed Leveling for Beginners

Hi all,
I have the Da Vinci 1.0 printer and I am using stock firmware and XYZware software.
I finally got my head clog cleared and I am able to print my frist test Demo print. Also I printed a 10cm custom print, great. My next two prints are terrible. The first one printed about half and then totally lifted from the bed and a big mess.  My second print was a rather large print of 4 different pieces the first piece stuck to the bed on the left side for the first couple of layers, but nothing else would stick. The filament in the middle and right side just keep moving around the bed like a snake.
I am now trying to follow the info presented here to see if leveling the bed will correct my issues...
I have a few questions if anyone can help me, thanks.
I am now trying to Calibrate the bed by performng a self Calibration. I have tried 10+ times with no success. My numbers range around 445, 295, err. I have a Digital Caliper if that can help. If yes how do I use it to messure the bed level?
When you refer to Auto bed leveling, are you refering to the auto Calibration option?
Somewhere I think someone mentioned what the numbers represend as to left, center, right but I don't remember, if someone could tell me again. And just to be clear, when we talk about front vs back. And left vs right side are we facing looking at the printer as the front being the part of the bed that is closest to the door and where the middle nut is located? Is that the Front or the back? Therefor is the left side to my left and the right side to my right?

Anything else that could help me will be greatly appreciated,

John

carl_m1968 wrote:

I see post after post here about people pulling out their hair over this printers auto bed level system. In my opinion and others as well this system is broken and not reliable at all. So I have decided to share my process that others use as well with all of you new Da Vinci owners to help save your marriage and life.

First we WILL use the auto level system, ONCE to get a passing result that we can store. Once we get a pass, and you store that value forget about ever running the feature again. All this initial run is for is to get you in the ballpark and to get the machine to a position it thinks is proper home.

Now that you spent several hours getting a pass we will continue. You will need to start a print. One of the demo prints is fine. Keep an eye on the printer as you don't want it to start before you are there to take action. As soon as it warms up and begins to print, watch it. As the head moves over the print bed and begins the purge line turn off the power. The purge line is the small line it prints in one direction and then prints longer in the opposite direction. It is used to visually verify a good stick and to get a good flow of filament.

So now the printer is off and the head should be setting over the print bed and you should be able to move the head carefully over any area of the bed by hand. Grab the head towards the top where the filament feeds in to avoid the hot surfaces at the bottom when you do this.

Move the head to the back left corner about an inch (25mm) from the adjusting screw and the back edge of the bed. Lay a piece of standard typing/printer paper on the bed and slide it under the nozzle. Again careful not to get burned . The nozzle will be hot enough to burn you for up to thirty minutes or more. You could also cut the paper down to a strip for easier handling.

Once the paper is under the nozzle adjust the bed height so you can just feel the paper being grabbed by the nozzle as you slide the paper around. Once you do this on the back left, repeat on the back right. Then move to the front middle and repeat there.

Go back to the back left, back right and front again to verify the height is still the same. Tweak if necessary. Once you are satisfied with the adjustments manually move the head by hand back to the home position. That is the very back right corner over the white drip pan.

Turn the power on the machine back on and go to the menu on the display and select home all axis. Then run another print. Stay with it this time with your hand on the power switch just in case so you can stop it if it gets snagged up for some reason.

If you followed this procedure and use it on a regular basis you will find leveling much easier and faster. Just remember to always level while the head and bed are hot for the best results. Once again try also not to get burned by the lower portion of the head.

Mods/Admin: Please consider making this a sticky to help out new owners of this great machine.