Bed Leveling for Beginners (Page 3 of 5)

Thank you, that confirms a lot. And much less guessing.
So, basicly are you saying I could take my Digital Caliper and measure the gap in between the head at each of rhe corners, then run an Auto calibration? Using the Caliper to at least get into the ballpark? Then perform step 2 or in this particular case step 3. Right now I think I am way out of wack just guessing how much to turn each nut.
The only thing is that I read here that you must perform the Auto Calibration first, period! Then manully adjust the bed at each corner.
Now, in a final question related to the anove explanation, could i just do the following...
1) a manual step 2 adjustment.
2) turn back on the printer
3) do a home axis set
4) perform an Auto Calibration. When that passes...
5) go back and perform step 2 again making micro adjustments
6) then perform a Home Axis set.

Would that work?

John

Hi all,
I finally got the bed Calibrated at 215,215,205. I found an XYZprinting video that shows how the different parts effect each other. They say the order is a - right b - left c - center.
I tried Step 2 adjusting with the sheet of paper. I adjusted some but I can not hear if the head is close enough by the sound of the scratching paper technique. I am a little gun shy to adjust to much after going through all the time to Calibrate. Any thoughts on that?
Another thing, i printed out a test print. It prints great if I use the option to add supports. But will not stick without supports.
Any other thoughts?
Adding auto supports in XYZware adds supports to all parts of the model. Even on the inside of holes . This make it hard to clean out. Is there anyway to add support only to the bottom of the model?

The link to the XYZ Calibration video is below. I think everyone that have not biewed this video should watch it just as another tidbit of information to learn.

http://youtu.be/xTKKcVMo7LU

John

Use the procedure at the top of this thread.

This method is intended for the 1.0. The others models did not even exist when I made this. If the built in works better on the 2.0 good for them. It still may be an issue if you change layer thickness to very small layers. As ideally your nozzle to bed distance is supposed to be half of your desired layer. A built in function does not know your desired layer height so all it can do is ball park it or make it so small it will not matter.

Thats normal for this printer.. Just don't run the auto level. Just start a test print and follow the procedure from that point on. After that, never run auto again.

I'm at a loss. I use this paper method, get the platform manually level, but when I go to run a print the head is almost 1.25mm above the platform? Use xyzprinting method get the numbers at +235 +241 +236 same thing the head is a long way off the desk!

I have been printing for about 70 hours, without a problem, did not touch anything from new. But recently I have been getting the filament clicking in the head due to the head being sitting hard against the glass. Ss I though it was time to re calibrate.

So has anyone found this issue with the Davinci 1.0A? I can relate to all of you that have been frustrated over this, what appears to be a simple adjustment.

Cheers
Greg.

I have and use the given XYZware software, they do not have an editable Z offset field in their software. Many thanks for your reply Carl, have you any idea where I could find this setting. I have used CNC machines before and being able to adjust axises with an offset, would be great.

I found that my best solution, at this time was to setup a test print with four circles in each corner of my platform and a large 5mm wide square around these four circles.

While the actual initial bed layer was laid down, I adjusted the bed height then, on the fly.

This has worked a treat, as now all my prints even after I turn off the printer are perfect. The first layer sticks down onto the glass and it is a very nice width, everywhere on the glass.

I never used any glue while setting all of this up, will be using this method in the future, if I cannot find any Z offsets!

Cheers
Greg.

I made this procedure keeping in mind that many owners are not mechanicly inclined, much less own feeler gauges. But are very likely to have a paper printer and access to paper.

If you have a feeler gauge feel free to use one. I use one myself. Although .005 is much to small. .10 or .15 is really where you want to be at.

Do you mean 0.005 inches ?
That would be about 0.12mm, which would make more sense.

Well you might want to consider using metric measurements as even though most of us are from the US we use metric. The machine operates using metric and most of the software uses metric so for the sake of being on the same page we all use metric as well. When I said .10 to .15 that was mm as I thought you to where using and .005mm was way too thin.

Extruder at 130°C, really ??
Surely that's a typo ?