CTC Creator Dual 3D Printer - Initial Review (Page 3 of 4)

Thanks that would be great. If you could post your settings that would also be useful.
I have read that X home offset = 152, Y home offset = 72.

I don't know what A home offset or B home offset are?

Upgraded CTC with y axis support with 11x5x4mm bearings today. Huge difference to smoothness and noise overall of printer. Problem I am having now is that I did a test 20mm square print. X-axis was perfect, y-axis came out at 18mm. This has only occurred since I upgraded to sailfish 7.6. Any suggestions?

I found this post and tried it but still no good.
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/x-an … -not-scale

Rh should allow you to change your steps per mm.
just connect the printer  and go to config and config firmware.

(current steps x 20) /18= steps needed

CTC printers use a mightyboard. As such you cannot send gcode commands to them directly even if flashed with sailfish. I have not tried to see if RH will let you see and set EEPROM values since I already had the elusive free version of S3D from my Da Vinci experience.

Update:

I just tried RH on my CTC. It will connect to the com port but it will not send or receive data in any shape or form nor does it allow you to read eeprom data as I expected. The mightyboard requires data to be converted from gcode to an hex string that S3D can do with a GPX plugin. Then that converted data gets sent to the printer. Watching the com log there is nothing that looks remotly like gcode commands. As such modifying what would be in EEPROM for some printers is not in EEPROM on a mightyboard but instead done by a start script during slicing.

Also as I stated there is a free version of S3D floating around out there if you want to spend sometime searching for it. It is fully functional but is an older version and will not update for obvious reasons.

It did not come with the Da Vinci, a member here sent me a link to a sky drive that had it.

If it can be done, then please tell me how as I have exhausted the net looking for ways to do it. There is no software that has access to that level of the firmware or EEPROM settings. Even ReplicatorG cannot access that level of settings. The firmware is received and sent in a BIN file so it is not editable.

Sailfish is a modified version. But it is supplied as a .BIN file, not a zip. In order to flash the mightyboard you have to use replicatorG which has AVRdude builtin and it loads the .BIN file. Your option is to JTAG the firmware using Atmel Studio and a JTAG adapter. Again this uses a .BIN file. That means the file is precompiled and you are limited to what the sailfish creator decides for you aside from it is available through the limited access to some values such as offsets and a few other settings. Unless you know what software was used to compile the .BIN file which is not shared then it is near impossible to decompile it and edit it then recompile.

There is a reason why there is not a big firmware community for makerbot/flashforge/CTC mightyboard based printers.

Even the stock version supplied by makerbot is still a .BIN file that you would need to decompile in order to edit and again without know what it was compiled on your shances are very low of being successful.

When you update firmware on the CTC or similar models it is done from a URL that is setup in ReplicatorG. That URL supplies the BIN file, you don't download it yourself from somewhere like most printers. There is also some sort of validation done to verify the URL is correct before the process starts so there is some sort of security in place as well.

Since you never actually have access to the .BIN file decompiling it really is not even an option.

I have searched high and low on ways to make internal firmware changes for a mightyboard as there is nothing I would like to do more. There are some settings that really bug me and I would like to change them as well. But you can't unless you make and compile your own version.

For which axis?

Ok, so an update on My CTC. I've now gone through 2 motherboards, first one the temp on the right side wasn't being read, and the 2nd it would just lock up with any firmware that was loaded on to it. I've since gone to Paypal and got a full refund. With that I've bought a Flashforge board, overall my experience with CTC and their printers, not good, I won't be buying another for the Farm.

It ran fine with the Makerbot Replicator 1 Firmware on there on the original Board. 2nd Board had Sailfish on there but had booting issues, resetting it usually kicked it back in, but it died a couple of weeks ago. The FF board came in this afternoon, it has Sailfish on as standard and is a 2560 Chip. Had to take the plastic connecting blocks off the CTC board to connect the Bed and end stops, aside from that it's all good, no major prints have been done as yet, but I'll be kicking production off tomorrow with it.

No matter the material you are using your bed should not have to be set over 100 maybe 110 at max.

60 to 90 is the average bed temp for most filaments.. The issue with your bed is the thermocouple offset and there is no way to access it on these machine running their current boards and firmware..

There was more than one reason I went to a Smoothie variant on my CT'c.