warping problem even with heated bed? (Page 1 of 2)

my bed temp is 80 for ABS on my printer and this dont happen anymore. depends how well placement of thermistor is on bed

Yup. The oils from your skin ruin your chances of adhesion especially when printing on kapton.

Your infill setting is under your Slic3r configurations. e.g. 90% infill will have more printed material in the center of a part compared to 10% infill. As the infill cools, it tugs on the walls which causes the lifting. If printing ABS, be sure you have your printer enclosed to keep the heat in since it cools faster than PLA.

Printing on glass (or mirror in my case) is an awesome tool since the aluminum beds tend to warp (like mine did) and it gives you a fresh start with a flat surface. Applying extra hold hairspray works like a charm. I just ran about 70 prints in the last week without reapplying. If you go the glass route, keep your kapton on and mist it with some AquaNet. This will make a gentle bond between the glass and the kapton with no need for clips.

Many users on here swear up and down for the purple glue sticks...yup. This same one sold in craft stores.

Don't spray it while in the printer. If you take your glass outside and spray it, no fumes inside and no residue on the printer.

Also try printing with a large brim of about 10mm. With glass you get a more even surface but sacrifice bed size due to bulldog clips. Be careful where you place them to avoid gnarly collisions.

I had a lot of the same problems with the large prints of my RC loader project. I've used aqua net on a glass bed on my SD-4 since I purchased my printer which worked well for most prints but I still had some sticking problems. I tried the disappearing purple glue sticks a few weeks ago and i'm sold, I will probably never use hair spray again. The glue stick really works well and cleaning is simple, a little soap and water on a sponge and your ready to go again.

reckon double sided sticky would have the same effect for the glass?

I tried one of the suggestions: cleaning the print bed to remove oilds from hands.
I cleaned with soap, then water. Then acetone (twice).
The print ended up better,but there is still little warping.

Ill try the other suggestions later.

Ill also try to measure the temperature of the print bed with a termometer to make sure its correct.

Its 110C again.

I've had similar issues with warping, which were initially relieved by adding the glass to my heated bed using AquaNet as an adhesive, and Elmer's Glu-stick (as many in this Forum suggested).  I used a generous brim, but started getting warpage again.  Went to a raft for several sessions, and that helped a great deal, but the raft is a real pain in the keister to remove.  Through a few back-channel discussions with wardjr and a bit of experimentation, it seems that I was not letting my heated bed get thoroughly heat-soaked.  My initial assumption was that when the bed-temp monitor showed the correct temp, I was good to print.  Seems that about 1/2 hour for the stock SD 4 bed to heat is about right.  I've been getting pretty adhesions results lately with neither brim nor raft.  I do, however, plan to upgrade the bed heater in the very near future, as well as the fans...

Thanks a lot for this post. This seems like it.
Let me check if I got this right: the bed is heated from a specific area and the termometer is located close to it and it can't show the temperature of the farther areas of the heat bed precisely as well?
Maybe I should get one of those handheld termometers and check the sides of the bed myself to know when its really ready.

BTW, whats a "brim"?

And isnt the SD4 print bed a glass with kapton tape on it already? Maybe the guys suggesting to add a glass have other models of Solidoodle?

Also, this is off topic but I looked in the RepRap wiki and the internet in general to find out what the purpose of kapton tape is. All I found out its a good choice for printing with ABS and its heat resistant, and that it stick to ABS well. But if it was so good why do people suggest to switch to just glass?

And btw, what about printing rafts? I just learned about them. Will a raft help warping, or the opposite?

The warping issue is going to haunt you forever, get used to it.  It is one of the properties of abs plastic that as it cools, it contracts.  Many of the suggestions that you have read on here will help to reduce the amount of warping.  The ideas that you see here are doing two things :  slowing down the cooling process to reduce warping and increasing the adhesion to the build plate to reduce warping.
    Heating the bed to a higher temperature slows down the cooling of the first couple of layers to reduce warping
    Using a better adhesion technique such as hair spray, abs slurry, elmer's purple glue stick reduces the warping
    Using a brim (a layer of plastic around the build, like the brim on a hat) slows down the cooling of the first layer as well as providing better adhesion to the build plate.
    Rafts create a secondary build plate allowing the raft to warp and reducing the amount of warp for the actual build itself.
    Changing the infill rate (how much plastic is inside your build) equalizes the rate of cooling between the inside and outside parts of your build, reducing the amount of warp
Most of us use a combination of these techniques when printing to reduce the amount of warp by reducing the different cooling rates of layers as it builds.  The more you experiment, the better you will get at it and your failure rate will diminish.  Good luck!

Oh, so overheating causes warping too? I didnt know that actually, thanks.
The Solidoodle website recommends a temperature between 100 or 110 though for Solidoodle 4.
Ill try lower and higher and see how it goes.