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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → warping problem even with heated bed?
Here's an inexpensive way of determining whether your bed is fully heat-soaked: use a temp stick at the outer edge. When it turns glossy-liquid, you are there. http://www.amazon.com/Markal-Thermomelt … 008980U4Q.
I use the glass and glue stick. Works awesome, I need a razor blade scrapper to get my parts off.
I've noticed this what's up with that. I don't want to use a raft with everything but it basically makes me
I use a raft on prints with small bottom surface areas to reduce peeling off thin points and ruining print at start it gives more contact area for sticking bottom layer enough to finish print without it coming loose. most times.
NOTE: once a raft layer is put in slic3r profile its near impossible to set it back to zero I found. as are a couple other settings even after retrying after many restarts of Repetier host clearing residual memory
n2ri wrote:over heating bed causes warp and burn on long prints over an hour. its why I went with 80c
I'm not sure I agree with this statement as the numbers just don't add up.
Of course in could depend on the type of filament used it doesn't apply to ABS.
With a bed heater like mine (signature) I have never seen anything resembling burnt filament.
Warping is usually caused by uneven cooling from top to bottom or to rapid of cooling.
I have proof of this happening! on neutral ABS with long print and bed temp was only 90c. it caused edges to turn yellow brown and curl up/back and just over 3hrs into a 4.5 hr print it came loose. making it a waste of time and material. once I tuned bed down to 80c never had issue again. and thin layers are worce about this. the part that curled up about 1/4" was a corner of the filament cleaner/guide that holds chunk of foam inside and screws onto 2nd part through back hole of SD2 to feed filament through. it was like 50 layers thick down to like 12 layers thin and the hole thing finally peeled loose b4 finished so had to lower temp and reprint. so dont think it cant!
even a turkey that requires cooking at 350 degrees 'F' for hours per lbs will also cook or even burn if left at much lower temps for long enough time like Turkey Jerky.
there is no need to heat bed above temp needed to hold bottom layer from shrinking. so dont set at max temp b4 melting but min temp b4 shrinking loose from 1st layer adhesion which is a bit above 70c unless temp sensor is in wrong place for exact read. its like testing bath for baby ;^)
I wasn't suggesting that ABS won't burn I was suggesting maybe your temps aren't reading accurately. That or a whole bunch of other users temps aren't reading accurately.
Just recently bought a SD4 and started off having lifting issues. Several things attributed to the problem. The print table was warped really bad so I straighted it out on a press. The Temperature is off by 25 degrees. Program shows it being 110 degrees and IR shows 85 to 90 degrees. Hairspray helped the adheasion.
You have an IR? Can you please tell the temperature difference from center to the edges of the bed? I would like to know how big the difference is. maybe the edges are too cold to allow sticking and thats why i get warping when printing saome large objects. Thanks.
Just recently bought a SD4 and started off having lifting issues. Several things attributed to the problem. The print table was warped really bad so I straighted it out on a press. The Temperature is off by 25 degrees. Program shows it being 110 degrees and IR shows 85 to 90 degrees. Hairspray helped the adheasion.
temps can vary like +/- 25c on printers easy, is why some do fine at temps others dont. and hair spray is ok long as you have removable glass bed and dont mind the smell. just dont use it inside printer as it gums up everything that moves bad
You have an IR? Can you please tell the temperature difference from center to the edges of the bed? I would like to know how big the difference is. maybe the edges are too cold to allow sticking and thats why i get warping when printing saome large objects. Thanks.
They are with in 10 degrees from the center to aprox. 1/2" from outside edge. Some spots are with in 5 degrees.
how close is it to what RH says it is? higher or lower
If it is really 85 in the center then that means close to the edges it will be 75 which is low for ABS to stick and not warp. I guess this is my problem why everything printed near the edges unsticks and warps.
Also check that the bed is level. My SD2 has a slight rise in the middle left to right.
as for the difference between distance from center on the dumb resister heater I try to put my object edges in what I call the happy zone which is between 10mm from outside edge and20mm from center on my 6x6 SD2 or edges try to either not stick on outer edges or scorch and curl in center right over resister be glad when I get an even accurate bed heater pad
I run my RH bed temp at what it says/thinks is 80c for best stick with near zero lifting on ABS prints
just finished 3 long days of 5-8 hr prints for my Lawsy replacement carriages for my SD2 had to use 1mm full infil settings to get true 100% solid parts so it was slow. that POS extruder wont keep up with flow rates higher or faster than that for solid fill. does fine for under 35% infil prints at all Slic3R profiles including the cube test. I used Lawsy's extruder locking arm for infil test print to see when settings really make 100% solid with no gaps. its under 10min print
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → warping problem even with heated bed?
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