1 Topic by tankueray

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Topic: Nylon

Basics:

  • Nylon warps

  • To print with it, you need a metal hot end

Posts from around the forum about Nylon:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

  • Large thread of information about Nylon filament.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6041/gla … ass-beads/

  • Summary - The Filastruder melt filter is 250 microns, and the glass-filled Nylon 6 found on eBay was 25 micron, so it should work.  However, while the glass beads may not wear your Filastruder, it may prematurely wear your printer nozzles.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6881/nylon-flexibility/

  • Summary - Young's Modulus and Flexural Modulus are indicators of flexibility of Nylon grades.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6787/nyl … questions/

  • Taulman's Nylon, off-gassing concerns.

If you've tried different Nylon recipes, please post your findings here.  Good information to post:

  • Brand/Grade and if it has any filler.

  • Filament extruder temperature and setup.

  • Printer settings and general printing experience using your Nylon.

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2 Reply by DePartedPrinter

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Re: Nylon

tankueray wrote:

Basics:

  • To print with it, you need a metal hot end

This is not true.

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

3 Reply by Revolve3D

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Re: Nylon

For Taulman nylon and bridge I use a Jhead MK V from hotends.com. 237C for bridge and 242C for 618 nylon.

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4 Reply by tankueray

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Re: Nylon

@ DePartedPrinter could you elaborate please?

It is my understanding that Taulman's are the only products that you can reliably use a non all metal hot end with.  Raw nylon pellets are either too viscous, or have a filler that makes them need high temps or are too difficult to extrude into useable filament.

Can you post some grades of pellets that you've gotten into filament and successfully printed without the E3D or extruder modification?

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5 Reply by elmoret

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Re: Nylon

I've extruded and printed nylon with a PEEK based hotend at ABS temps. PA2200 from Shapeways.

Filastruder - the robust, inexpensive filament extruder
E3Dv6 All Metal Hotend - the premier 3D printing hotend

6 Reply by tankueray

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Re: Nylon

I do remember that, and the drug jokes...  Is PA2200 pure Nylon 12?  It's probably a bad translation, but it says "basis on PA 12" and is it also something that anyone can easily get?

On my big list of notes, PA is next to PC, so I may have mis-pasted, but I have read a lot of info that you can't just use any Nylon (but apparently weed whacker line works).  The whole point of the specific materials threads is to be able to extrude our own, but there's little information on nylon outside of Taulman's filament. 

I'll try to source some PA12 to test.

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7 Reply by cmcc (edited by cmcc 2015-11-03 20:57:11)

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Re: Nylon

I should be receiving some nylon 6/12 tomorrow, I will let you guys know how it goes.

EDIT: oops, thought this was a sticky

8 Reply by ttabbal

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Re: Nylon

I ordered some Nylon 6 from http://3dsupplysource.com/materials/raw_material/PA-6.

It seems to extrude reasonably well, but I don't think I dried it enough as I got bubbles in the filament. The indicator card was all blue, but that seems to be the case anyway. I'm going to try drying it at 200F for a day so to see if I can really dry it out and try again. I was just wondering if anyone had tried it and had more information about Nylon in general. I got a few short lengths of bubble free filament, not enough to do much with, but the diameter tolerance was almost as good as ABS for them. I needed to run about 205C to extrude it.

I also need to thoroughly clean the barrel, I thought extruding for a while would do it, but I found some ABS pellets in there.

9 Reply by cmcc (edited by cmcc 2016-01-04 01:41:18)

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Re: Nylon

I have been working with nylon in my spare time for a few months now. You definitely need to dry it thoroughly or you will always get crazy bubbles. I use a big food dehydrator to dry a few pounds at a time, leaving a mesh bag to dry for a few days at a time with good results moisture wise.  I've tried bother nylon 6 and 6/12, and my problem now is to get a good consistency. It will start out consistent, and then shrink, and then go back up to the original size, almost like a wave. What is infuriating is that it seems really consistent up until this happens, and I have not been able to figure out the problem. I think I might need more cooling, I have four more fans coming in but even with one fan I always have the problem of having the nozzle temperature too low as a result of the fan. I ordered a 18v power supply to possibly beef up the heater so it's not being overwhelmed by the fans. I've tried vertical and horizontal setups, and tonight I actually tapped a nozzle for 10-32, and added an extension fitting so that the filament is extruded further from the nozzle, hopefully allowing for closer fan placement without effecting the temperature of the nozzle so much. I'm going to try that with both a vertical and 90 degree setup as well.

I forgot to mention, I am using a filawinder, I have a hard time seeing how you could get consistent results without one, as the nylon seems so easily stretched by its own weight you couldn't get a good diameter even with a very oversize hole. With the wave pattern, I'm getting about +-.1mm. If I could get +-.05mm, I would be very, very happy. If all else fails I am going to try water cooling.

10 Reply by ttabbal

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Re: Nylon

I got decent results after drying for 24 hours @200F. I didn't use a winder, but I will be picking up my filawinder kit at the post office tomorrow. Apparently, they decided not to deliver it Saturday. I was extruding at 218C with the stock filastruder with the 3mm nozzle. I was getting 2.65mm +/- 0.15mm without much trouble. I did need to drop the height to about 4ft though. This was horizontal extruding to the floor. I printed a couple test parts after drying the filament in the oven again. I then packed it in vacuum bags with silica gel. When I tried to print it again a few days later, the extruder strips the filament. I am planning to try drying it again and printing right out of the oven. I also have an extruder designed for flexible filament like ninjaflex I plan to try.

With 3mm in general, I'm considering adding another fan or two. Maybe with a shroud directing the flow to a long nozzle to get flow primarily on the filament. I'm waiting to see how the winder affects things.

I also have a 15V power supply on the way as maintaining 218C required the heater on constantly. I'm actually out of nylon pellets now, but will be ordering some once I get the winder up and running. I need to get some ABS and HIPS run anyway.

http://soliforum.com/i/?lIkmY31.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?Ckd19qX.jpg

11 Reply by cmcc

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Re: Nylon

Could I send you some of my nylon so you could try to duplicate your results with it? Your end product is very encouraging. I actually have a website I was going to promote once I was sure that the pellets were suitable for extrusion, but I've had very little time to work out all the kinks. Mine is not impact modified, so I don't know if that will make a large difference.

12 Reply by ttabbal

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Re: Nylon

Sure, I'll give it a go. Hopefully we can figure it out. I really like nylon, but the price for pre made filament is much higher than ABS/PLA/HIPS. Getting a known good recipe and source would be a big win. I'll PM you with my address.

13 Reply by vexmatech

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Re: Nylon

thanks for this information.


Nylon 645 properties and characteristics
645 is currently being used by CNC shops around the world to support quick turn prototypes for Pre-Pilot and Pilot runs as well as some limited production runs.  As global supply compresses and just-in-time becomes just-a-little-late, more and more CNC shops are jumping in to fill quick turn needs.


645 is machinable with similar settings and cutting speeds as used in Cast Nylon blocks.

Thermal properties are slightly higher than Nylon 6,6 and Nylon 6,12. 

Cutting tools need to be sharp.

Three flute flat end mills are preferred.

Holes to be drilled should be printed the next metric or imperial size down and no less than two perimeters when printing.  A calculation should be

made such that drilled holes do not encroach on fills and be contained within perimeters only.

645 does not leave any nylon dust residue during tap operations.  However, 645 does cut and even with it's slippery properties, some "cuttings" can

be retained in the tap'd hole, therefore, these should be cleaned using compressed air.

For tap'd holes that are used for threaded rod, where the rod will be constantly rotated, do NOT use any lubricants as they are not needed and over

time will be soaked up into the fill area.

Locking chemicals for blind nuts do NOT work on 645, and as some contain acids, they will weaken bonding.

Tap quality and material thickness follow the same rule as for aluminum.

Threaded Brass Inserts work well when installed with a soldering iron set to 250C

Do NOT use water based solvents as 645 will take on some of the solvent and become discolored. - Permanently!

Nothing bonds to 645.  To adhere other parts to 645, they must also be made of 645 and bonded with a heat gun or soldering iron.

Pliability of 645 follows the same size and density rules that apply to injection molded nylon for 100% fill parts.

    For more pliability, you can reduce fill to something less than 100%

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