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Topic: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Well I got my Colorfabb Bronzefill yesterday. This material is 80% fine bronze particles, 20% PLA (by weight).

So far not so great, clogs but I'm just getting started. I started with my standard PLA setting but I have begun to adjust my speed and temperature to see if I can find the sweet spot. I wonder if I need to use my bigger nozzle. Things I will have to explore.

With some of the half prints I have begun to test polishing it to make it shine. Not as easy as it sounds. Will take a lot of elbow grease and finesse. I had saw the results of someone using a rock tumbler and determined to get one now. Fow now I am practicing with sanding via steel wool, dremmel tool, sandpaper, files etc. One section I got looking pretty nice and was shiny  through elbow grease and sandpaper.

As for strength after printing, seems about on par with standard PLA. As for the weight the items DOES feel heaver and less cheap.

Long and short of it. Still testing to get any real results wink

* Sorry no pics, forgot to take some yesterday. Hopefully for my next post I'll have some.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

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Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Good info!  I'm anxious to hear what you figure out on speed and temp settings.

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Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

A flow rate of 110 seemed to do the trick; Otherwise normal PLA settings.

Unpolished and polished in photo.

http://i.imgur.com/EMTvZLw.jpg

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

4

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Thus far setting my flow rate to 110 has kept the clogs away.

Regular sanding not too bad. I also seem to be able to use a dab of M.E.K. Substitute on a papertowel to smooth layers some also if I desire.

Shining made much easier with a dremmel like tool and brass brush(and I'm using a cheap $20 tool) and takes much less time and looks better.

http://i.imgur.com/scIywdv.jpg

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

5

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

I am using 225 degrees @ a 110 flowrate. Which is 10 degrees more then my PLA, but I am not sure it is needed just what I am using and it works.

*NOTE I have the E3D hot end, so my temps based on that hot end

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

6

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

That Star Trek print came out awesome! The before and after pics I'm sure will be very useful for other users. What size nozzle did you settle on?

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

7

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Outstanding...do they have a heavy weight feel to them?

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

8

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

I was using .4mm nozzle but I was getting clogs now and then. So I am going to try my .6mm nozzle.

As for the weight. Yes they feel about 3 times heavier then normal PLA, especailly if you increase the infil.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

9

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Still trying some polishing. Tried more and less polishing. One thing for sure the less fine detail in the model the easier it is.

http://i.imgur.com/O6Yfmq7.jpg

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

10

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Hmm can't seem to get the .6 nozzle to work without clogs. I mean with just PLA. I never did get the .6 nozzle to work right awhile back. I am gonna instead try and turn up the temp another 5 degree and see it it helps the on occasion clog with this material

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

11

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Umm, yeah... More plastic = higher temp to maintain proper flow.
Add in the high concentration of metal and it's inability to get to temp also translates into slower feed rates.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

12 (edited by LdyMox 2014-07-20 22:48:49)

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

With my .4mm nozzle. Upped my temp to 230 and slowed my print down to 80% speed...so far so good anyways.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

13

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Whoops. Testing on hold for parts. Maybe I'll go to a version 6 while I'm at it .

http://i.imgur.com/I2ZN9Db.jpg

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

14

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

That's rough. After I sheared the heat break, rendering the nozzle and heating block useless, I just bought more replacements than I needed. 2 weeks after receiving the parts, I needed a new thermistor (snapped wire)...good thing I ordered ahead smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

15

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

I may try the v6 if I can order the right mount for it too. Otherwise I'll just order the v5 again...I made the mistake of putting the heartbreak in the fire. ..i guess it couldn't take the temp and is now crooked.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

16

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

I wish I could say I'm surprised wink either way that sucks.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

17

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

In the meantime here is a pic of one that came right off the printer unpolished

http://i.imgur.com/blQHClQ.jpg

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

18

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Looking good!  for just getting started.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

19

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Since I had PLA clogging on me too I'm not so sure my clogs were caused by the material rather then my abuse of the E3D, or if the material exasberated problems.  Well once I am back up I'll test more.

Though I have several half finished peices to practice polishing. Those metal wire wheels rotary tool accessory seems to be very helpful, but you can lose detail easy. Plus keeping it uniform is tricky.

I also was getting Y axis shift despite my fan on my board but that's nothing to do with the material and has been an ungoing problem for me I keep having to fight

The weight of this stuff is very nice, and increasing infill can add to it too.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

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Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Since your down any way you should address that skipping.  Have you pulled the drive belt off so you can slide it back and forth to check for binding?  Is your filament spool adding resistance to the extruder?  I mean something is causing this so I'm just shotgunning here.  Have you tried changing the Vref?  I am sure you've answered most of these questions.
What about y-belt alignment?
I don't know.... Blame it on the Humidity wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

21 (edited by LdyMox 2014-07-21 03:41:07)

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Yep I followed that video for perfect circles which has you redo the belts.

I use the standard spool holder. Maybe I could upgrade but I never had this problem until recently

Yep have tried the VREF.

Have fan on chips

Actually Buffalo does get humid in the summer...

Redoing the belts seems to buy me time.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

22

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Keep an eye on the Y-axis idler brackets in the front of the machine too. Mine weren't printed particularly solid, and the left gave out from heat & tension after a while, exhibiting the Y-shift problem whenever the chamber heated up enough, a few minutes into a print. After a baffling few failed prints, it folded up completely as I was tightening the belt.

There are a couple replacement models to choose from on Thingiverse.

Don: Folger Tech 2020 Kossel Rev A + Borosilicate + Snow Effector
        Davinci 1.0 + Repetier : Filastruder
        SD3 + RAMPS + Lawsy Carriages + E3D + Borosilicate + ... : Cupcake

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Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

My E3Dv6 won't ship for a week or so I think. I wonder if I can solder the heating element wire on just as a temp stopgap for a week or so? I guess I can't make it worst. The other part I need is a lil crooked but could be semi functions even if it creates jams.

Y-axis idler brackets? I am not sure what part those are. I can say my belts never looks very sturdy on the Y carriage and maybe it is lossening over time. I suppose I should print a replacement for them at some point.

LdyMox wrote:

Whoops. Testing on hold for parts. Maybe I'll go to a version 6 while I'm at it .

http://i.imgur.com/I2ZN9Db.jpg

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

24

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

I actully broke my temp sensor too taking this thing apart haha. But I had backups wink I LOVE that the v6 you screw on the temp sensor ratehr then the awful tape.

AZERATE wrote:

That's rough. After I sheared the heat break, rendering the nozzle and heating block useless, I just bought more replacements than I needed. 2 weeks after receiving the parts, I needed a new thermistor (snapped wire)...good thing I ordered ahead smile

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

25

Re: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Upon thinking. I realize no way I can solder the wire to the heater on; Solder melts at what 200 degrees, yeah I guess I'll just have to wait.

I can't wait to get back to testing the Bronzefill!

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA