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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Filament Extruder - Convert pellets to filament
The best deal I've been able to find for masterbatch from a supplier is 25lb minimum, $25/lb. You certainly have to pick your colors wisely, so I wish they had done primaries for the start. The other way is looking for leftovers, in which case beggars can't be choosers.
The best deal I've been able to find for masterbatch from a supplier is 25lb minimum, $25/lb. You certainly have to pick your colors wisely, so I wish they had done primaries for the start. The other way is looking for leftovers, in which case beggars can't be choosers.
Here's pink!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PINK-ABS-PLASTI … 35b282485a
$2.8/lb shipped.
If anyone out there is decently well versed in PCB design and has a few hours of free time, shoot me an email - filastruder at gmail.
IanJohnson wrote:Masterbatch is proving hard to get. Makibox has a variety of pellet colors though, and I was thinking of getting the closest thing to red yellow and blue that they offer, to try mixing. Since they aren't concentrated like masterbatch, you don't have the problem of mixing the pellets at 50:1 and hoping the distribution is consistent in such small batches.
Open Source Printing was suppost to get some more colors of masterbatch. I told them they need to get the primary colors so that we can experiment.
Working on it still. Our supplier is not responding very well. Sorry guys for the wait
DePartedPrinter wrote:IanJohnson wrote:Masterbatch is proving hard to get. Makibox has a variety of pellet colors though, and I was thinking of getting the closest thing to red yellow and blue that they offer, to try mixing. Since they aren't concentrated like masterbatch, you don't have the problem of mixing the pellets at 50:1 and hoping the distribution is consistent in such small batches.
Open Source Printing was suppost to get some more colors of masterbatch. I told them they need to get the primary colors so that we can experiment.
Working on it still. Our supplier is not responding very well. Sorry guys for the wait
I'm patient. My hands are full with other projects right now anyways.
Tim
The settings for distance work great. I have printed without ramen for some hours now. I am only getting 8 inches per minute.
Can you provide the nozzle mods you use to get 24 inches per minute.
Tim
The settings for distance work great. I have printed without ramen for some hours now. I am only getting 8 inches per minute.
Can you provide the nozzle mods you use to get 24 inches per minute.
I cant get even close to 24" per minute....maybe Tim rubs his with cheetah blood.
Tim
The settings for distance work great. I have printed without ramen for some hours now. I am only getting 8 inches per minute.
Can you provide the nozzle mods you use to get 24 inches per minute.
Good to hear!
The inches per minute depend on three things:
1.) MFI (melt flow index) of the plastic. When I hit 24"/min, I was on the highest MFI plastic I have.
2.) Temperature. Hotter = more inches/minute. I think I was around 197C. Hotter also = thinner, and more chance of kinking
3.) Motor voltage. I think when I hit 24/min I was using a unregulated supply that was closer to 14v.
It's worth noting that I typically run about 12"/min now on most plastics.
cheetah blood.
Nah, Deer Antler Spray.
On another note, I've been running for 24 hours at 191C, which is kind of the bleeding edge for making ramen. the first 14 hours went great. The last 10...
(Size 11 shoe for reference)
Whoops. I think the problem was more the pile of filament on the floor than the temperature I was running at. Hotter temperature just makes it more sensitive to starting a kink, and once it gets going...
Guys with working Filastruders: (Paging Ian, Nick, Departed, Supraflyer)
Can you make a youtube video, similar to Ian's (but Ian if you want to do another, that'd be cool!) Going over the Filastruder, and showing some of your output, preferably neatly spooled? I'm wrapping up the kickstarter page, and it'd be helpful to have some video from the beta testers.
Hi, firstly awesome project and some great work you are doing.
I am attemting to recreate a filament extruder in the UK, what type of heater are you using is it a self raped one of a premade heater? Can't seam to work it out form the instruction.
Also if you increase the presure in the extruder do you get smaller and larger filament? I ask because I may have access to an industrial extruder and would like to modify it to extrude filament on the cheap.
Sorry if I'm butting in it's my first time using forum.
Tom
Premade, its a 100w band heater. It's not cost effective or safe to DIY this part - off the shelf versions are $20.
Haven't really tried increasing pressure, doing so would require significantly overvolting the motor. I imagine it would increase filament diameter slightly, but not much.
Hi, firstly awesome project and some great work you are doing.
I am attemting to recreate a filament extruder in the UK, what type of heater are you using is it a self raped one of a premade heater? Can't seam to work it out form the instruction.
Also if you increase the presure in the extruder do you get smaller and larger filament? I ask because I may have access to an industrial extruder and would like to modify it to extrude filament on the cheap.
Sorry if I'm butting in it's my first time using forum.
Tom
@tom how far have you got so far?...looking to do the same
@elmoret... what is it you are looking to do pcb wise?....if i can help i will?
I was considering a AVR/PIC solution to control the extruder and optionally a spool winder, but it looks like its cost-prohibitive right now. I'd need a uC, display, relay, couple MOSFETS, ULN Stepper driver, terminals, and passive components-plus PCB and assembly. I don't think it can be done cost effectively.
Tim,
I can do that but I have yet do my beta2 conversion as work has temporary taken over my life.
I was a KickStarter supporter of this project. They will soon be able to ship to everyone. Some of the lowest priced parts to make small controllers. smartmaker dot com
I was considering a AVR/PIC solution to control the extruder and optionally a spool winder, but it looks like its cost-prohibitive right now. I'd need a uC, display, relay, couple MOSFETS, ULN Stepper driver, terminals, and passive components-plus PCB and assembly. I don't think it can be done cost effectively.
Tim,
I can do that but I have yet do my beta2 conversion as work has temporary taken over my life.
Okay, a quick video of beta 1 would be great. No rush on beta2, whenever you get to it.
setithing wrote:Hi, firstly awesome project and some great work you are doing.
I am attemting to recreate a filament extruder in the UK, what type of heater are you using is it a self raped one of a premade heater? Can't seam to work it out form the instruction.
Also if you increase the presure in the extruder do you get smaller and larger filament? I ask because I may have access to an industrial extruder and would like to modify it to extrude filament on the cheap.
Sorry if I'm butting in it's my first time using forum.
Tom
@tom how far have you got so far?...looking to do the same
@elmoret... what is it you are looking to do pcb wise?....if i can help i will?
Have just sourced parts, am going to try working with 20mm conduit as it's easier to get hold of. and a 16mm wood auger fits well inside.
for the nozzle i plan to drill out a M20 bolt (not sure how well that will work yet).
for the nozzle i plan to drill out a M20 bolt (not sure how well that will work yet).
Try to get a brass bolt. Steel will be nearly impossible to drill.
@elmoret what are the 2 flanges after the hopper used for? I though at first they may be a heat break or a expantion chamber.
In other words do you thing it work with out it?
@elmoret what are the 2 flanges after the hopper used for? I though at first they may be a heat break or a expantion chamber.
In other words do you thing it work with out it?
Yes, beta 2 does not use them, as covered earlier in the thread.
The tricky thing about sourcing the parts is the pipe. Most are made by rolling the steel and welding it, which often leaves a seam on the inside. Depending on the clearance between the pipe and the auger, this might make it impossible for the auger to fit. Even it the auger does fit, it's best to have a smooth surface inside.
I don't know how it would be in Europe, but in my city at least all pipe from the hardware stores have the seam, except for brass pipe. The company Tim orders the pipe from has several warehouses around the country. When I order the same part number he does, I get a pipe with a seam, while the pipe he gets is smooth inside.
That is a cost factor of 10 (from $2.80 5o $25): were one of those a typo?
IanJohnson wrote:The best deal I've been able to find for masterbatch from a supplier is 25lb minimum, $25/lb. You certainly have to pick your colors wisely, so I wish they had done primaries for the start. The other way is looking for leftovers, in which case beggars can't be choosers.
Here's pink!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PINK-ABS-PLASTI … 35b282485a
$2.8/lb shipped.
When I get my EventorBot
Why did you choose to go that route? I ordered an Aluminatus (in a moment of weakness: I hate that the Internet never sleeps and is always there to take your order!)
That is a cost factor of 10 (from $2.80 5o $25): were one of those a typo?
elmoret wrote:IanJohnson wrote:The best deal I've been able to find for masterbatch from a supplier is 25lb minimum, $25/lb. You certainly have to pick your colors wisely, so I wish they had done primaries for the start. The other way is looking for leftovers, in which case beggars can't be choosers.
Here's pink!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PINK-ABS-PLASTI … 35b282485a
$2.8/lb shipped.
That pink is not materbatch, it's pink ABS, already colored. Masterbatch is the concentrated colorant.
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