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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → XYZ Printing DaVinci 1.0 $499 7.8" cubed
Have you verified that the temp is actually changing? I have my temp set lower and the monitor utility on the bottom lower corner of xyzware still shows it at 220. I really think the temp is controlled by the filament chip. But I could be way wrong.
I will dig out my inferred thermometer and check but whilst watching the LCD during warmup it state 230C and then started the first layer. It appears it gets the extruder temperature up to about 80% of the requested temperature then waits for the correct bed temp. After that it brings the extruder up.
Although I disabled the fan for the first layer in Slic3r it still sounds like its running. Obviously it would heat quicker if it did disable.
harry
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
In Slic3r there are 4 tabs across the top of the latest release of software and along the right side there are 3 drop down selectors for [Print] [Filament] and [Printer]. You usually only select Printer once, unless you have more than one, then change Filament parameters when you change filament and then you usually change something on each Print if the needs warrant. (they usually do). I think everything you provided was from the Print tab.
Did you create your own DaVinci1.0 printer config and DaVinci1.0 filament config? If so, could you share those too?
-- ggunners
the DaVinciConfig.ini is the exported file out of slic3r, import that and it should set the filament and printer settings. If not let me know and I will post screen shots
dean
Thanks for the 230*C hack -- I incorporated it in my resetters (selectable by jumper so that you can switch back to 200*C or 230*C as needed). My new xyz replacement printer came in finally and I've tested the new code and looks good -- it works reliably to 240m, when I tried 400m it worked 2 out of 3 tries (inserting/removing/resetting cartridge) - so I'm going to code 240m to the resetters for now -- I just want them to be reliable. 240m will last long enough between resets anyway ...
By the way, the 230*C filament makes a HUGE difference on the quality of print - this is the remperature that my flashforge works at also so this was a great addition!
I just wish that xyzware would have a configuration screen so that we can set all of these parameters ...
F3
Have you verified that the temp is actually changing? I have my temp set lower and the monitor utility on the bottom lower corner of xyzware still shows it at 220. I really think the temp is controlled by the filament chip. But I could be way wrong.
You're not wrong. it IS controlled by the cartridge -- this is how xyzcorp will set the temperature when they release the PLA cartridges (they will program the chip with lower temps).
So, if I understand this correctly,,,,, while you can specify an extrusion temperature in slic3r, the cartridge firmware will override this temperature.
apc7654, this is exactly what I have found. the temp is totally set by the cart.
I tried printing a flower pot after using the MS fix site to see what happened. (Hey, it fixed an orange peeler design!) Unfortunately I still get this error message. Any ideas? I could try slic3r again, but last time it locked my laptop and took my 8-core desktop 3-4 hours to process and still didn't print.
for whats it's worth, in my vast experience of like 1.5 weeks 3d printing, no 1 slicer does it all perfect. for very complicated objects and items other slicers failed on kisslicer worked great. did this today when all others failed.
for whats it's worth, in my vast experience of like 1.5 weeks 3d printing, no 1 slicer does it all perfect. for very complicated objects and items other slicers failed on kisslicer worked great. did this today when all others failed.
Thanks. I'll give that one a shot.
Just printed my first demo print,,, the typical key chain. Looks good,,, just waiting for the bed to cool down so I can pop it off.
Any tips on the best time and how to get the print off. Tried when it was first completed, and was just too hard, and started to melt the scraper that came with the printer.
I'm amazed on how well this thing printed right out of the box, without calibrating the bed. Now off to bigger and better things to print!
Just printed my first demo print,,, the typical key chain. Looks good,,, just waiting for the bed to cool down so I can pop it off.
Any tips on the best time and how to get the print off. Tried when it was first completed, and was just too hard, and started to melt the scraper that came with the printer.
I'm amazed on how well this thing printed right out of the box, without calibrating the bed. Now off to bigger and better things to print!
Throw the included scraper in the trash!
Let the bed cool off at the end of the cycle and it'll lift right off! No sticking.
Well, KISS made it try to print over the right, rear, leveling pad. Actually pushed the table down as the extruded went over the metal lip. I canceled the job quickly, but obviously I need to tweak some settings. O_O
I'm going to try to use Cura as a slicing program. It was developed for the Ultimaker, but it's output appears to be able to be used on other printers.
Pierceedtiger, you need to set-up the printer, Most important the center of the table should be 100, 100.
apc7654 If you are able to get cura to work please share your configs and such, I was only ever able to get it to print starting about 8+mm above the table. I gave it a good go too, knowing gcode I glanced over the post(post processor gcode file) made by cura and found nothing glaringly wrong. So any and all help would be awesome in getting it to work.
Side note I got pla in today and will be giving that a shot later tonight or tomorrow sometime.
D'oh! Thanks joshj. Changes are made and I'll try it again!
Well try number 2 didn't work so well. Extruder was too high off the table, no filament came out other than some leakage, and it didn't do the normal line or two to get things flowing before starting the print.
Ok so I am using notepad++ as a proper text editor. It has base64 encode/decode as a plugin as it comes.
I have like an old .3w file from xyzware from the version that came with the machine.
I have copied the top section of that file, from the line before the first move to the top.
I then will replace the same section in the file that I just sliced.
While I have found that this copy and paste is not always necessary, it seems to be often enough that I just do it as mater of practice.
I will then select all, (ctrl+a) and right click, plugin, base64 encode,
save as , type all file types, then add .3w at end of gcode file name.
I think that is understandable, I don't explain all that good sometimes.
If it's not clear let me know and I will try and do better.
I didn't want to cut the panel on the machine for sd slot hack for one, and I'd rather not get off my arse to start the print, LOL. Yes I guess you could wear out the card slot.
The holy grail will either be a firmware or being able to stream the g-code.
The newer version of the slicer software encodes it a bit screwy, and we have not got that bit sorted as of yet, but it will read a base64 saved file(older version save) then it re-encodes it to new format.
I will also get the communication commands up in here tonight.
Are there any moderators reading this? Can we get a sub-section?
This printer has got to be the fastest unit selling at the moment and will draw in allot of first printers.
It would be nice to be able sort out the info presented based on the type, like slicer info and all that JAZZ.
Hi joshj, any information on the communication commands? It looks like everything is being done over a plain serial port, so I'd love to take a look at it. It'd be great to bypass XYZware completely and use the USB port. Great work documenting what you've done with slic3r by the way!
Echoing issues other users have mentioned: after doing the cartridge reset hack on firmware version I, I also had very poor quality prints, with prints coming apart in my fingers. After downgrading back to firmware version G, everything looks good again, and my cartridge remains reset. 
I tried Cura as well, and also noticed it started printing in the air a centimeter or so above the bed...
joshj wrote:I didn't want to cut the panel on the machine for sd slot hack for one, and I'd rather not get off my arse to start the print, LOL. Yes I guess you could wear out the card slot.
The holy grail will either be a firmware or being able to stream the g-code.
The newer version of the slicer software encodes it a bit screwy, and we have not got that bit sorted as of yet, but it will read a base64 saved file(older version save) then it re-encodes it to new format.
I will also get the communication commands up in here tonight.
Are there any moderators reading this? Can we get a sub-section?
This printer has got to be the fastest unit selling at the moment and will draw in allot of first printers.
It would be nice to be able sort out the info presented based on the type, like slicer info and all that JAZZ.Hi joshj, any information on the communication commands? It looks like everything is being done over a plain serial port, so I'd love to take a look at it. It'd be great to bypass XYZware completely and use the USB port. Great work documenting what you've done with slic3r by the way!
Echoing issues other users have mentioned: after doing the cartridge reset hack on firmware version I, I also had very poor quality prints, with prints coming apart in my fingers. After downgrading back to firmware version G, everything looks good again, and my cartridge remains reset.
I tried Cura as well, and also noticed it started printing in the air a centimeter or so above the bed...
please how did you downgrade ?
i really need to print
thanks
Downgrading to firmware version 1.1.G
I'm not allowed to post links here (yet?), but Stosh helpfully uploaded the G firmware version in a comment over on the Voltivo blog post "Da Vinci 1.0 filament counter reset using an Arduino" and described the process.
Thanks Stosh, whoever you are!
(This only works on Windows as of now, Mac version of XYZware doesn't pop up a file chooser.)
1. Disconnect from internet
2. Try to upgrade firmware from within XYZware
3. After a while, it times out and opens a file browser to select a firmware file.
Anyone having luck printing out the XYZ Da Vinci 3D Printer filament cartridge counter resetter FINAL VERSION.
I've printed about 4 of these with different settings with XYZ software and even one with Slic3r but there all just fraction to small. The area to put the board is about 0.5 mm to small and the holes to small. I can drill out the holes a little, but be quite an effort to file out the width for the board. I assume the plastic is shrinking when its printed, any suggestions?
thanks
harry
that sounds like way more than ABS shrinkage. ABS shrinkage can be compensated for by scaling UP in X/Y by 1.005 (which arguably compensates based on shrinkage in inches.. but we're already so far into insignificant digits for the given resolution it probably doesn't matter that much... )
For shrinkage rates of misc resins, check out http://www.stelray.com/reference-tables.html .
But 0.5mm off - would need to be over a 100mm object for it to be shrinkage alone.
Is anyone else having a hell of a time keeping the printer bed calibrated? I only get through about 4 prints before it fails the autocalibration again. And that process is very very frustrating to work through.
Any tips appreciated.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → XYZ Printing DaVinci 1.0 $499 7.8" cubed
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