Replacement hot end (Page 1 of 2)

I think it should work and replacement for hot-head is on top of my list as well while things are working and I can print out the holder.

Do you have any idea what the exterior temp will be on the nozzle then?  Will the jigsaw replacement or the original acrylic jigsaw mount be able to handle those exterior temps?

New hot end is in with not much fuss.

• Aluminium block needed shortening to avoid touching and melting the carriage.

• Original thermistor was used (and fits nicely), avoiding firmware changes.

• Wire soldered onto the two ends of the heating resistor, insulated with heat shrink and then pressed into the original plug.

Setting the temp to 200 degrees C has the PEEK barrel at 100 degrees C, 20 degrees cooler. I'm not sure whether the whole thing is cooler or the PEEK barrel is just cooler is this configuration.

Insulation still needed for the assembly.

Broke the extruder acrylic by accident so madly printing the replacement while it holds together.

Pics and guide to come.

I just want to let you guys know that we have the hot end gripes in mind, and we are working out new ideas.
That said, we would love to hear what you would say about a perfect hot end.

We had a similar hot end on the RepMan.. personally, I am not a fan of the nichrome and fire cement approach.  Sure, it is compact and all, but it is a bear to clean and fragile (as others here have noted).

What I personally like is the J-Head style (all one piece brass with resistor heater or cartridge heater) or the one from arcol.hu http://shop.arcol.hu/ with a nozzle that can be replaced independent of the heater.  This last one is very similar to how Lawsy rebuilt his (nozzle separate from heater).

The extruder design needs one additional thing, in my opinion (which isn't worth much at this point), and that is a means for "clipping in" the hot end.  By that I mean that I should not need to remove the motor and jigsaw (which I hope you replace with something like the designs showing up here) to get the hot end out and work on it.   In my mind I imagine something like a ZIF socket (not an actual zif socket for a chip...) at the top where you slide the hot end into place and then pull a tiny lever to close and fix the hot end in place.

As I rebuild my other printer, I will be designing something like that so that I can pull out and replace/clean the hot end easily.

/start off topic

I wonder why we don't yet have standardized connectors and methods for 3d printer parts like we do for PC's.... Every time someone wants to use a new Hot End they have to design and print and adapter, etc.  Seems so simple, but if we had standard connectors for motors, hot ends, heated beds, etc then we could stock parts that would work with many different printers. Competition could drive prices down and quality up. Standard hot end heights would make it easier to deal with all of these issues without always needing to level the bed.  Yeah.. I live in a fantasy world and yeah the motors / heaters / extruders are still evolving and designs are changing.  Still, if there were standards, then it seems like all of this would be easier.

/end off topic

Link?

Edit - found it:

http://prusanozzle.org/index.html

Won't work with the SD without significant modification (or using original PEEK). This one will, though: (But it, too needs SD peek)

http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=22

PEEK is not the answer, in my opinion. I'd rather see a stainless insulator, but that's money ++.

Guide has been up for  while: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/571/repl … end-guide/

I used a hacksaw and then a file, but aluminium is soft enough to just file if you prefer.

You may not like it as well.  It takes longer to heat up with the resistor pkg.

btw: Makergear sells their hot end for 75.00.

also sold @ Ultimachine and some MG parts.

Well, I already wait something like 15 or 20 minutes (or atleast it feels like it) for the bed to heat up.  If it is taking that long, would just need to start them both heating at the same time rather than wait.  Plus, upgrading to a higher wattage heater is easier if I decide I need to upgrade later.

I have been thinking about doing that with the bed too... but I see that someone already has and the bed is still taking a while to heat.

Just saw this info from the MakerGear site.

Cotronics Resbond, which is what Makergear uses, according to the website.

Not sure if SD uses the same stuff?

I just got my J-Head in from hotends.com.  Quick and cheap shipping.
Before I switch this out, I will perform temperature measurements with the probe and ir gun to compare with readings on Repetier.  Then, once I have it switched, I will do the same measurements to see the differences.

Here is a comparison photo: