Topic: Heater resistance
I have managed to break my heater for my solidoodle but have one on order. In the meantime I have decided to repair my heater, can anyone tell me what the correct resistance the heater should have?
Thanks
Re: Heater resistance
~10 ohms, straight from SD:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/358/heat … d-working/
(found in 10 seconds via Google)
Re: Heater resistance
thanks, I will have a better look next time before posting. Im curious, would it be possible to replace the standard solidoodle hot end with one like the reprap mk4 hot end? The only problem I can see is the difference in resistance for the heater. As you said the solidoodle heater is 10 ohms and the standard reprap mk4 is 5.6 ohms.
Re: Heater resistance
Sorry, did you mean the extruder hot end? My link was for the bed.
Also, there are conflicting reports on the bed. SD says 10 ohms, but the resistor says 3 ohms.
5 2012-11-03 19:29:44 (edited by adamp 2012-11-03 19:40:50)
Re: Heater resistance
I was referring to the extruder heater sorry. I couldn't wait for my part to come through as im too impatient haha. so I went ahead and did this....
Re: Heater resistance
Where did you get it? I think the resistor style would be a lot easier for them to build in the Solidoodle factory.
Re: Heater resistance
Easier to swap out, too. Do you have pictures of the process?
8 2012-11-03 20:17:27 (edited by adamp 2012-11-03 20:18:46)
Re: Heater resistance
I ordered it from some Chinese guy off ebay, wasnt quite sure if it would work but seems to be alright. I think it may be using too much power (sorry im not great with electronics) as the light flicker slightly every now an then. no sorry as I wasnt sure it would work but im planning on re-doing it so will take some pictures for you then.
Re: Heater resistance
eBay link to the one you picked?
10 2012-11-04 00:49:12 (edited by adamp 2012-11-04 00:50:00)
Re: Heater resistance
This is the one I chose.
itm/290768331068
I had to make a new plate (the thing that is made from ply wood) to accommodate the 16mm PEEK tube but as my printer wasn't working I had to make it by hand, now its printing im going to design that piece and print it so it fits properly.
Once i have done it i will link to thingiverse if you like?
11 2012-11-04 01:03:43 (edited by elmoret 2012-11-04 02:24:01)
Re: Heater resistance
Dang that's a little pricer than I'd expect, $58 for a resistor, block of metal, and PEEK tube.
I want to move my whole system to 24V, but I'll keep brainstorming.
Check this bad boy out:
http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=22
$17.50, lets you swap in whatever resistors you want.
Re: Heater resistance
I've been eyeing this one - http://reprap.org/wiki/Arcol.hu_Hot-End_Version_4
It's even more expensive at around $90 for the kit. However it is all metal, so there is no worry about going too hot and melting the PEEK. I'd like to work on printing faster, and the limitation on that is the extruder's ability to keep up. One way to get the extruder to extrude faster is to turn the heat up so the plastic melts quicker, but the Solidoodle's extruder is limited by the melting point of the PEEK.
Re: Heater resistance
Do you plan to upgrade the steppers also? It is just a gut feeling, but I think you would run out of torque before you hit the limit for low extrusion heat.
Re: Heater resistance
The XY steppers are fine. The high speeds are enabled by more gradual acceleration, which allows higher top speeds without running out of torque. It depends on how long the segment is, some will be too short to hit those speeds. Large parts with lots of fill benefit the most.
Re: Heater resistance
IanJohnson wrote:
The XY steppers are fine. The high speeds are enabled by more gradual acceleration, which allows higher top speeds without running out of torque. It depends on how long the segment is, some will be too short to hit those speeds. Large parts with lots of fill benefit the most.
Fair enough, I was thinking about smaller parts. Have you tested the max extrusion rate on the SD?
Re: Heater resistance
I was thinking this was to be a temporary solution until my new hot end arrived but I think I may end up staying with this hot end as the parts are coming out nice and I will no longer have to deal with the problems of messing about with removing the heater core if it jams. One thing im not sure on though is by using the new resistor heater am I overloading the PSU? I must admit it don't fully understand all the electronics involved here 
Re: Heater resistance
I don't know what the wattage of the standard heater element is, but I can tell you that with my standard hot end the LED strip also flickers every now and then.
Someone else might be able to tell if your heater is non-standard wattage. Your current new heater is a 40W one.
Re: Heater resistance
and by the other thread on current draw .. the stock extruder is drawing 2A .. so 24W for standard (assuming the 12V supply is really 12v)
perhaps someone with some talent for thermodynamics and chemistry could answer what that translates to as a maximum extrusion volume per second.. I could say that a 40W element would improve this to a factor of 175% the current max rate..
Re: Heater resistance
I have put together a quick design for the plate that the hot end attaches to if anybody wants to do the same. Although its not perfect it will do the job. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34015
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Re: Heater resistance
this one is a lot cheape and better imo and also all metal
Re: Heater resistance
Figuring out how to mount that one would be a little more tricky, since they are designed for a plate that mounts from the top. You might need some kind of angle bracket to adapt it for the fact that the S2's mounting holes are on the front of the carriage.
Also there have been mixed reviews, and problems with stripping. I don't know what percentage have trouble. One thing I don't like is the use of a screw and plunger to hold the filament against the gear rather than a spring.
Re: Heater resistance
The default Replicator extruder is crap.
As mentioned uses a plunger than wears and only gives intermittent filament grip. Replicator at work has had troubles since new and has recently reached a point where the delrin plunger has worn enough that it won't extrude at all, instead stripping filament immediately.
I've been adapting one of the minimalist replacements from Thingiverse but have had trouble getting the spring tension right. The solidoodle extruder might be a jigsaw to pull apart but its performance is fantastic.