Re: Replacement hot end
As a side note, Solidoodle will be releasing its own cartridge heater style head in the coming months.
I am glad to hear it. When will we get to see a prototype?
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Replacement hot end
As a side note, Solidoodle will be releasing its own cartridge heater style head in the coming months.
I am glad to hear it. When will we get to see a prototype?
I look forward to seeing these replacement hot end experiments. I eventually would like to replace mine. If only just because some of the other designs are more clever (optimization obsession) and offer a road to a few higher temp materials.
I've had a seriously bad week of clogging, partly my fault, but I would love to upgrade to a different less-prone or more-easily-fixed nozzle. If anyone has any good advise for what to look for, I would basically upgrade based on said advice.
Alternatively- solidoodle support, do you want a beta tester? I'd love to pay for the upgrade even if you're still working out kinks. But preferably if most kinks are out.
Cephdon, have you mounted your Jhead yet? It doesn't seem to have the step-down in diameter needed for the wood plate to push it up against the extruder. I have one on order, I'm hoping I get my nichrome heater to keep limping long enough to make any necessary mods.
Cephdon, have you mounted your Jhead yet? It doesn't seem to have the step-down in diameter needed for the wood plate to push it up against the extruder. I have one on order, I'm hoping I get my nichrome heater to keep limping long enough to make any necessary mods.
Not yet.. Planning to do it this weekend. Just waiting on the arrival of a few more things. I also purchased (but didn't mention before) the metal mounting plate that they sell with it. Sadly, the mounting notch is too small, so I will need to file it to make it fit correctly, but then again, the screw slots are not perfectly lined up either. Off by a small margin. However, I figure it will act as a pretty nice heat sink for that portion of the extruder.
It is aluminum and looks like:
I ordered the bracket too. Are you saying the bracket is too small for the hot end they sell it for? I plan on printing the extruder replacement to go with this, so it shouldn't be too hard to modify as needed.
I ordered the bracket too. Are you saying the bracket is too small for the hot end they sell it for? I plan on printing the extruder replacement to go with this, so it shouldn't be too hard to modify as needed.
On mine, the bracket is just a hair too small to fit the hot end. Nothing a grinding wheel on a dremel wont fix, but it should just slip on, maybe with a minor amount of force. I would think that it should be a close but snug fit, not so much that I can't remove it but with a bit of resistance to turning.
Since I am basically down at the moment, I can't print an extruder to fit... though, if I can manage to get my current extruder unclogged long enough, I will print a mounting bracket to fit without adjusting the mounting notches on the bracket. It is already sooo close.. just maybe 2 or 3 mm out of alignment.
cephdon - Any progress? Looking to change out my with either the J-head or the one from Qu-Bd.
I don't have mine wired up yet, but I revised the mounting block from the Jigsaw Replacement to fit it.
https://tinkercad.com/things/6iGPZiWa3m … solidoodle
I got my final pieces in the mail yesterday. I am starting to move towards my "zif-able" hot end design. Once of the pieces I was waiting on was my selection for upgraded connector. Its a 4-conductor locking stlye that has the ability to be panel mounted on one side.
It looks like:
My idea is to have the thermistor and heater wires run to the panel mount side.
The panel mount side will eventually mount into the zif hot end carrier, providing strain relief while also keeping the entire hot end in a neat and small package. When I swap out hot ends, I would just undo the connector,flip the lever that keeps it locked in place, pull out the hot end, place the new one in its place, drop the lever and hook up the connector. For version 1, that is probably sufficient.
I might eventually try to integrate the connector with the zif hot end so that they connect and disconnect together. Who knows.
For now, I am just trying to get my hot end working. I will post images when I have it connected...probably later today.
I need to do some temperature measurements first.
Oh, and I also got the hot end from qu-bd.com. I still don't know what thermistor is used on the SD2, and no response on my query for that info. Maybe it is listed in the code somewhere. Otherwise, I will just have to buy some thermistors and update the code to use them. That way they are all the same.
The thermistor in the S2 is EPCOS 100k
Sweet. Thanks Ian. Now I can get one for the qu-bd hot end and a few spares.
Edit:
Hmm, seems there are several with slightly different characteristics.
Do we know which of the epcos tables we use? The part number may be on the reprap site.
If not, I will just look through the code and compare them.
Edit 2:
I think I finally figured out why my hot end keeps jamming.
Requested - C SD2 - C Thermocouple F Thermo converted to C IR - C
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ambient 22 73 22.77777778 24
30 29.9 85 29.44444444 30
40 45.8 103 39.44444444 42.8
60 60 144 62.22222222 63.6
80 80.3 165 73.88888889 93.3
100 100 188 86.66666667 111.3
130 130.6 241 116.1111111 142.6
160 160.1 292 144.4444444 176.3
180 180 319 159.4444444 196.7
200 200 343 172.7777778 211.4
Now Ian had already told me how inaccurate the IR thermometers were, but I had to test to see.
My thermocouple reads in F so I converted to C using the standard equation of ((5/9)*(Temp - 32).
Due to poor readings from the IR at the tip, I ended up measuring the temperate of the heat core with it (I later checked the temp of the heat core with the thermocouple and found that it doesn't vary significantly from the brass tip).
I taped my thermocouple to the tip to measure the temperate as seen by the thermistor, just on the other side.
If the thermocouple is to be believed, the actual temperature of the head something like 20 to 30 degrees below expected at the target temperature.
Also, when looking at the temp table in code I noticed that it might not have been created correctly.
I am not sure who created it, and what method they used (the code isn't commented very well).
This is the relevant block, if I am understanding everything correctly:
#if (THERMISTORHEATER_0 == 6) || (THERMISTORHEATER_1 == 6) || (THERMISTORHEATER_2 == 6) || (THERMISTORBED == 6) // 100k Epcos thermistor
const short temptable_6[][2] PROGMEM = {
{1*OVERSAMPLENR, 350},
{28*OVERSAMPLENR, 250}, //top rating 250C
{31*OVERSAMPLENR, 245},
{35*OVERSAMPLENR, 240},
{39*OVERSAMPLENR, 235},
{42*OVERSAMPLENR, 230},
{44*OVERSAMPLENR, 225},
{49*OVERSAMPLENR, 220},
{53*OVERSAMPLENR, 215},
{62*OVERSAMPLENR, 210},
{71*OVERSAMPLENR, 205}, //fitted graphically
{78*OVERSAMPLENR, 200}, //fitted graphically
{94*OVERSAMPLENR, 190},
{102*OVERSAMPLENR, 185},
{116*OVERSAMPLENR, 170},
{143*OVERSAMPLENR, 160},
{183*OVERSAMPLENR, 150},
{223*OVERSAMPLENR, 140},
{270*OVERSAMPLENR, 130},
{318*OVERSAMPLENR, 120},
{383*OVERSAMPLENR, 110},
{413*OVERSAMPLENR, 105},
{439*OVERSAMPLENR, 100},
{484*OVERSAMPLENR, 95},
{513*OVERSAMPLENR, 90},
{607*OVERSAMPLENR, 80},
{664*OVERSAMPLENR, 70},
{781*OVERSAMPLENR, 60},
{810*OVERSAMPLENR, 55},
{849*OVERSAMPLENR, 50},
{914*OVERSAMPLENR, 45},
{914*OVERSAMPLENR, 40},
{935*OVERSAMPLENR, 35},
{954*OVERSAMPLENR, 30},
{970*OVERSAMPLENR, 25},
{978*OVERSAMPLENR, 22},
{1008*OVERSAMPLENR, 3}
};
#endif
Notice that 914 is used twice, for 45 and 40C.
I am currently unable to reproduce this table using the createTemperatureLookup.py script.
None of the 100k thermistors from epcos actually produce this table from that script. To make matters worse, reading my thermistor's resistance at room temperature yields 116.4k ohms.
In summary, I am not exactly sure what thermistor is installed.
Here is the big question.... do I trust the thermocouple, or do I trust the thermistor which tended to come out pretty close (10 - 16 degrees) as compared to the IR thermometer.
Edit: I decided to run a form of calibration test. I live at sea level, where water boils at 212F (100C). The IR reads 199F (1% Tolerance) and the thermocouple reads 207 (3% tolerance). Since the thermocouple is well within tolerance, I think I can trust that value, which means that my hot end is running way colder than it thinks.
Here is the JHead in the mounting. I was fortunate enough to have printed this off before I started having jamming problems with my printer. This is from the original replacement thread, I think. I used a wax / plastic file to open up room so that the jHead could fit and drilled out the holes to fit an M3 bolt.
The fit is snug, don't yet know if it will stand up to printing. Hopefully it will work well enough to allow me to print a better mounting for it.
A note on using the Jhead with the jigsaw replacement, without a mounting plate- the mounting plate is what hits the X endstop. I've glued a piece of plastic to the bottom of my mounting block to hit the endstop until I can revise that tinkercad model to come down a little lower, and print a new one.
A note on using the Jhead with the jigsaw replacement, without a mounting plate- the mounting plate is what hits the X endstop. I've glued a piece of plastic to the bottom of my mounting block to hit the endstop until I can revise that tinkercad model to come down a little lower, and print a new one.
Nice catch. I noticed that we have holes on the jigsaw replacement for mounting the plate. Since I wont be using the plate, seems like a small right angle piece screwed there would fix the problem.
The most recent offering for the JHead only has 3 mm filament as an option. Maybe that will change.
The most recent offering for the JHead only has 3 mm filament as an option. Maybe that will change.
We are now distributing heater block based hot ends. I am surprised no one has posted a picture of them yet - they are far simpler than the previous model
Way to go SD Team!!! the block setup should be a great improvement for a number of reasons... maintenance being #1
Jon posted some pictures, and now that I know what they look like, I've noticed them in some other posts from new users. It's a good start, but even better would be the kind with the nozzle integrated into the heater block and a hole for the thermistor so it doesn't have to be taped to the outside.
I'm sure the techs rejoiced the day the blocks replaced nichrome/cement on the assembly line. That's probably worth a week of shortened lead time right there
jon_bondy wrote:The most recent offering for the JHead only has 3 mm filament as an option. Maybe that will change.
We are now distributing heater block based hot ends. I am surprised no one has posted a picture of them yet - they are far simpler than the previous model
Well, to be fair, I did start this topic as soon as I received the new hot ends:
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