Replacing the Z screw with finer pitch on a SD3

Hi Baron, here is the link for a way to remove the nut on the aluminum platform ---> http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2990/bos … -consumer/

Thank you, that's good info. I have been tuning a bit and found that getting my steps per mm on the extruder better has drastically improved my z banding issue, but it is still there. I happen to work by a large industrial park, so I can get M3 rods and the like locally without too much trouble.

In the meantime, I am trying the well nut trick. Printed this retainer plate: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:100053 and picked up some 4-40x1/2" socketed cap screws. Went together without too much trouble. Going to print a new test print and, if the difference is really noticeable (it has been from my smaller improvements) I will post pictures. Maybe I won't have to take this whole thing apart.

Aside from the PEM nut, the aluminium bed has the same procedures for removing it as the wooden bed. I think someone already posted a link to the PEM nut removal guide. The mounting holes around the Hole for the threaded rod are different so you will need to choose a replacement nut hugger accordingly. Adrian posted an M5 nut hugger for the aluminium bed. There is also the slopnut that has options for m5, m3, and the original 5/16". 

On a side note, this probably didnt need its own thread. This topic has been discussed to exhaustion. I this what we do need is a sticky in the hacks and mods that lists all previous z-axis mods.

If you have the equipment, one thing you could try would be to use a 5/16 brass bolt as an adapter.  Just drill and tap a hole down the middle to accept the new rod.  This is what I would have done for my M3 if it weren't late at night (with stores closed) when I did my mod.

Absolutely.  My original goal was to push the envelope, with the premise that going to as fine a thread as possible would be best at eliminating banding, an effect demonstrated previously on other platforms.   I ordered a stainless steel M3 rod, half expecting to be too flexible, but I found it to be a lot stiffer than I thought and more than adequate for the job.  In fact, since the bed on the Solidoodle is kept in alignment with the two solid Z rails, the problem with an M8 or the standard 5/16-18 rod is that they are *too* stiff, which magnifies any alignment or straightness issues, exacerbating banding.

There are a bunch of other threads where folks are using M5 or M3 z-rods with great success.  I like the M3 because the thread finer (.5mm vs .8mm).  It made all my banding issues go completely away with one straightforward mod.... done.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2154/fix … aded-zrod/