1 (edited by pirvan 2013-07-10 06:46:28)

Topic: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

At the last Bay Area Maker Faire, I picked up another 3D Printer, the PrintrBot Simple.  This miniature printer was conceived as an exercise in simplicity, so like many others, I started modding it... and modding it... and modding it, until it got out of hand.

So for the past month or so I've been spending more time making mods, than actually using the printer  At the same time, I realized that I've been bit by the modding bug, because I'm now thinking about building my own printer from scratch.

I recently ordered a ball screw for my Solidoodle, even though it's currently working pretty well with the well nut I installed on it, but I had the opportunity to buy some inexpensive ball screws so I got this idea in my head about making a precision printer which uses ball screws for all the axis, and is made from primarily aluminum and steel. rather than plywood or plastic.

Besides the 12mm x 350mm balls screw I got for the Solidoodle, I also ordered 3 miniature ballscrews: 10mm dia. x 5mm pitch x 377mm long. The threaded length of the screw is 305mm, and that should give me about 250mm worth of usable travel, which is just under 10". So a 10" x 10" x 10" build platform is what I'm shooting for. While I'm waiting for my ball screws, I started conceptualizing the motion control.

Like the Solidoodle, the head will move in the X and Y axis, and the build platform will be moving in the Z axis. Most of the construction bearing and motion blocks will be machined aluminum, and the rest of the hardware (linear bearings, rods, screws, etc) will be steel, of course.

For electronics, I think I'll be using the Printrboard rather than the Sanguinololu.  I prefer it because it has certain features that the Sanguino board doesn't have in its standard configuration (LCD control panel support, built-in SD card).

The frame will be off the shelf structural extruded aluminum, easily available at home improvement/hardware stores

So here is a drawing of work in progress the motion control platform.

So what do you guys think ?

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=2424&download=0

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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

2

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Looks cool, but have you thought about a ballscrew on each end of the x axis? otherwise inertial weight may be a problem at higher speeds.

3

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

How have you found the ball screw on the Solidoodle?

I assume you have it fitted for the z axis.

I have one sitting around I haven't tried yet, and I'm wondering if it's worth having a crack.

4 (edited by adrian 2013-06-17 01:16:00)

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Looks good.

My only suggestion would be don't disregard using a RAMPS setup instead of the Printrboard. It offers everything the Printrboard does, but has a lot more pins available for additional functionality, and a much wider user base.

Also, the AT90USB1286 (mega equiv on the Printrboard), whilst outwardly attractive for its inbuilt USB functionality, isn't as nice from a modular or expansion perspective as the ATMega + USB Chip approach fo the Arduino MEGA...

Cost wise, they are virtually identical...

5

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Also, if a Printboard stepper driver fails (which is not uncommon), you have to replace the whole thing.

Obviously the other side to this is the really small size.

6

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

lawsy wrote:

How have you found the ball screw on the Solidoodle?

I assume you have it fitted for the z axis.

I have one sitting around I haven't tried yet, and I'm wondering if it's worth having a crack.

I haven't received it yet.  Funny enough, it took 4 days from the day I bought it to get from China to San Francisco, and it's been stuck in the USPS system now for a week.  If I don't get it by tomorrow, I'll have to declare it lost and get USPS to start looking for it.

The other 3 miniature screws are coming from Korea.  They're Japanese made Issoku screws and they're used, pulls from CNC machines.  According to the vendor, they are in very good to excellent condition.  We'll see when they get here.


adrian wrote:

Looks good.

My only suggestion would be don't disregard using a RAMPS setup instead of the Printrboard. It offers everything the Printrboard does, but has a lot more pins available for additional functionality, and a much wider user base.

Also, the AT90USB1286 (mega equiv on the Printrboard), whilst outwardly attractive for its inbuilt USB functionality, isn't as nice from a modular or expansion perspective as the ATMega + USB Chip approach fo the Arduino MEGA...

Cost wise, they are virtually identical...

I looked at the RAMPS  boards, and I'm not a big fan of how it's laid out.  I guess if you're an Arduino fan, you'd probably appreciate the design with the plugin header connectors for the shields and such, I for one kind of like the simpler, more compact design of the Printrboard.

As for price, the cheapest i can find a similarly configured RAMPS, with fake Arduino board is about $120.  With real Arduino about $150.  I can get the Printrboard for $85

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

7

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Pirvan, where is the best deal for the printrboard. Thanks.

8

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Briggs wrote:

Pirvan, where is the best deal for the printrboard. Thanks.

Compatible Firmware

    Sprinter Sprinter: Supported, use MOTHERBOARD == 9.
    Marlin Marlin: No official support yet, but works with Lincomatic's fork.
    Repetier List_of_Firmware#Repetier-Firmware: Supported, use MOTHERBOARD == 9.
    grbl List_of_Firmware#Grbl: No official support yet, but works with Lincomatic's fork.



Just know that if you switch to the printrboard then you will not be able to use the same firmware as the rest of us. Not that it should be too big of an issue. smile

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

9

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Briggs wrote:

Pirvan, where is the best deal for the printrboard. Thanks.

I ordered mine on eBay from this guy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281101122532?ss … 1423.l2649

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

10

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Being able to make a cool machine is one thing. Being able to take it to market, promote it tirelessly, design support and inventory systems, hire good techs, deal with angry frustrated customers, cash flow problems, spurts of overwhelming problems... there's more to starting a new business (if that's what you're thinking) than you'd imagine if you've not done it. But, if you're talking about contributing your ideas to the RepRap community, then by all means...

smile

Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10

11

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Heartlander wrote:

Being able to make a cool machine is one thing. Being able to take it to market, promote it tirelessly, design support and inventory systems, hire good techs, deal with angry frustrated customers, cash flow problems, spurts of overwhelming problems... there's more to starting a new business (if that's what you're thinking) than you'd imagine if you've not done it. But, if you're talking about contributing your ideas to the RepRap community, then by all means...

smile

While I'm sure that somewhere in the back of my brain there might be a voice wispering smething about marketing, I have yet to get the necessary parts to build one.  So unitl such time as I build my own, and I see it function, this is nothing more that a pipe dream.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

12

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

lawsy wrote:

How have you found the ball screw on the Solidoodle?

I assume you have it fitted for the z axis.

I have one sitting around I haven't tried yet, and I'm wondering if it's worth having a crack.

Hey Lawsy,

I got the ball screw last week, and sent it to a machine shop to have the screw cut to length, and the ends machined.  I got it back, but unfortunately, the machine shop forgot to cut it to length first, so I sent it back, I should have it early next week.

I'm having both ends machined, the lower for the 8mm to 5mm Flex coupler to the motor shaft, while the upper end will be riding inside a 608 bearing which will be mounted at the top of the frame.  This should get rid of wobble once and for all.

I did play with it a little before I shipped it out, and I like it.  The movement is smooth as silk and surprisingly free.  I can take the screw, hold it vertically, and give the nut just a little nudge and it will roll down the screw length on its own for 3-4 inches before stopping.  That's pretty impressive for something that it tight enough to not have any play/backlash, so I expect the vertical travel to be nearly perfect, which should translate into prints free of banding.

If I still have banding after this, then it's not hardware, it's something else.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

13

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

isnt it a bad idea to constrain the z screw with any sort of top bearing? i thought that any slight misalignment between the vertical guides and z screw was taken out by not having the top of the screw locked down.

14

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Looks sweet!  but I echo ronsii's concern about the y-axis drive mechanism.  When it moves, I suspect the whole x-axis will want to swing around the bearing at the right end rather than slide, causing backlash and possibly binding problems.

15

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

dkeeling728 wrote:

isnt it a bad idea to constrain the z screw with any sort of top bearing? i thought that any slight misalignment between the vertical guides and z screw was taken out by not having the top of the screw locked down.

I don't think so.  In my case it added much needed rigidity to the build platform. the misalignment (if it's there), is probably taken care of by the flex coupler.   I can go full travel from top to bottom without any binding or at least I can't hear the motor stressing, it sounds the same working the full length of the rod.

You can check out my thread on the "Z" ball screw here:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2998/sd3 … all-screw/

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

16

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

tealvince wrote:

Looks sweet!  but I echo ronsii's concern about the y-axis drive mechanism.  When it moves, I suspect the whole x-axis will want to swing around the bearing at the right end rather than slide, causing backlash and possibly binding problems.

All this is conceptual right now, at this moment I got the 2 Issoku miniature ball screws and they're sweet.  These things are virtually frictionless.  I also have the long 8mm linear bearings (LM8LUU) as well as the 6mm end support ball bearings

Next step it to find a machine shop that will make the aluminum blocks for me.  I also need to decide if I'm going to use NEMA17 or NEMA23 motors, I'll probably stick to 17's.

Once everything is together, I'll be able to see if the "Y" rack will bind on the opposite of the ball screw.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

17

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Hi @pirvan,

Where do you find the linear bearings supports and the junction piece between bearing and ball screw? I'm looking to do a similar system for a CNC laser. I plan to use NEMA 23 motors to maintain torque under micro steps.
I plan to use only one motor by axis because the movement of balls crew is irreversible and if one motor fail the other cannot drive the axis, (mechanical laws for bolts and screws). For cutting the structure i think to use water jet cut.
To maintain the drive capacity and parallelism on the opposite "y" axis i think to use a system with pulleys and stainless steel cable with powerful tension springs.

18 (edited by pirvan 2013-07-09 06:53:36)

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

gilles-e wrote:

Hi @pirvan,

Where do you find the linear bearings supports and the junction piece between bearing and ball screw? I'm looking to do a similar system for a CNC laser. I plan to use NEMA 23 motors to maintain torque under micro steps.
I plan to use only one motor by axis because the movement of balls crew is irreversible and if one motor fail the other cannot drive the axis, (mechanical laws for bolts and screws). For cutting the structure i think to use water jet cut.
To maintain the drive capacity and parallelism on the opposite "y" axis i think to use a system with pulleys and stainless steel cable with powerful tension springs.

All the blocks will be custom machined out of aluminum to my specifications.  The linear bearings are standard LM8LUU (45mm) or LM8UU (24.5mm).  They will be either pressed in or secured with set screws. 

Fortunately, these are simple to machine, so the costs of having these made should not be very high.

Here is an example of the blocks as they fit together and the bearings in side them.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=2645&download=0

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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

19

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

I think to use this type of slider from Igus

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20

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

gilles-e wrote:

Hi @pirvan,

...I plan to use only one motor by axis because the movement of balls crew is irreversible and if one motor fail the other cannot drive the axis, (mechanical laws for bolts and screws). For cutting the structure i think to use water jet cut.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by irreversible.  The ballscrew turns bidirectlionally, so each ball screw is driven by one motor only. 

At this moment, I haven't decided if the motor will be in-line and drive the screw directly, or if I will be mounting it on top of the end block and using a gear drive.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

21

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

gilles-e wrote:

I think to use this type of slider from Igus

I looked at Igus product and I assume you're looking at their DryLin product.  Their iGlide product seems to be made from some proprietary plastics mix, similar to Teflon or Delrin.

I like the stuff, but I personally prefer to have this machined from alluminum and have linear bearings instead of plastic bushings.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

22

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Precision screw should work better then belts for backlash reasons, however i suspect that it will also be much slower; since it usually has very high mechanical force advantage. An idea i played with in my mind and on the back of a napkin is to add 3 linear position sensors and have the head location controlled in real time via the position sensors instead of just linear calibration of drive belts.

23

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

pcm81 wrote:

Precision screw should work better then belts for backlash reasons, however i suspect that it will also be much slower; since it usually has very high mechanical force advantage. An idea i played with in my mind and on the back of a napkin is to add 3 linear position sensors and have the head location controlled in real time via the position sensors instead of just linear calibration of drive belts.

Are you thinking about something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parker-Maxon-Mi … %26ps%3D54
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Parker-Maxon-Micromotor-Driven-Optical-Positioning-Linear-Stage-Slide-/00/s/MTA2NFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqNHJF!E88evolLyBPTS4NpGqg~~60_1.JPG

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

24

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

Problem with optical positioning is that is usually works in a short range of distances. I was thinking more along the lines of http://www.celesco.com/linearpot/

25

Re: Precision 3D Printer ... from scratch

pcm81 wrote:

Problem with optical positioning is that is usually works in a short range of distances. I was thinking more along the lines of http://www.celesco.com/linearpot/

The MLP series shown above runs at about $500 per unit, but these are MIL spec; idea is to use similar unit for 10 bucks.
Or may be even make your own.