51 Reply by heartless

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

carl_m1968 wrote:
n2ri wrote:

but 3D printers are NOT like paper printers and dont even connect the same or only have the limited devices to operate as a paper printer. if they were you could use Windows "ADD NEW PRINTER" app and even plug a parallel port cable in. cant compare Apples and Pineapples just because they both have the word Apple in name dont make them the same thing. think bigger.

This is 3d printing forum. When we say printer it is understood as a 3d printer. A paper printer is not being discussed here. Think smaller. Printer equals 3d printer in this forum. The few times a paper printer was mentioned it was specified as a paper printer to indicate a different type of printer in the discussion from the norm.

When I said once the logic is removed a printer is just a printer I was talking about a 3D printer and yes all of them have the same basic hardware and operation. The only thing that sets them apart is the logic and firmware.

http://soliforum.com/i/?QsEixjo.jpg

Seems to me this kind of thing has been hashed over before.. possibly even more than once...

As Carl has said - this is a 3D Printing forum. As such any discussion about "printers" here in this forum is in reference to 3D printers - unless clearly specified otherwise.

Would you go to a Chevy forum and talk about Toyota's or Volkswagen as if they were Chevy's?
No, you would not... if you did, you would be run off in a heartbeat.

So why do you insist on discussing anything about paper printers here? Paper printer operations do not apply here - period. Forget about them while you are here.

3d printing has never been like paper printing, and probably never will be like paper printing, so PLEASE - stop comparing the two!

Changing out the controller board on a 3d printer is not that difficult.
Getting the firmware configured and compiled correctly and uploaded to said controller board is the hardest part of the process.
The rest is simply making the correct physical connections for the various bits... endstops, motors, heaters, etc.

There are plenty of people here that have done this, including myself. Most of us are also willing to help those interested in also doing it - but - they have to be willing to take a little direction and understand the differences.

My suggestion to you, @n2ri, is to buy a kit printer (3d printer) and build it. Make it work.
Learn, and understand, the relationships of the various parts and how they go together to create a functioning machine.

If that is beyond your comfort zone, then it is probably best you leave well enough alone.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

52 Reply by Soapbox1858

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Well, that escalated quickly.

In other news, I had Monday off and was able to work on the Solidoodle 2.

I installed the MK6 extruder and Hobbgoblin, as well as the E3D lite6 hotend.

I flashed the firmware uneventfully.

Then I had to spend a while fiddling with the z stop bolt, and leveling the bed. I think my bed may have a bit of a bow in the middle to it, so the leveling isnt perfect. (I think its always had the bow)

I calibrated the extruder and adjusted the steps/mm.

So its now printing pretty well. I think there is still some more finessing to do with settings, but that seems to be a perpetual thing with 3D printing.

So far I have just been doing test cubes, and printing smallish pegboard hooks while I mess with settings.

We shall see how things go when I go for some larger prints. This is always where I had issues before, having to babysit the printer.

53 Reply by n2ri (edited by n2ri 2019-02-20 22:15:20)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

heartless wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:
n2ri wrote:

but 3D printers are NOT like paper printers and dont even connect the same or only have the limited devices to operate as a paper printer. if they were you could use Windows "ADD NEW PRINTER" app and even plug a parallel port cable in. cant compare Apples and Pineapples just because they both have the word Apple in name dont make them the same thing. think bigger.

This is 3d printing forum. When we say printer it is understood as a 3d printer. A paper printer is not being discussed here. Think smaller. Printer equals 3d printer in this forum. The few times a paper printer was mentioned it was specified as a paper printer to indicate a different type of printer in the discussion from the norm.

When I said once the logic is removed a printer is just a printer I was talking about a 3D printer and yes all of them have the same basic hardware and operation. The only thing that sets them apart is the logic and firmware.

http://soliforum.com/i/?QsEixjo.jpg

Seems to me this kind of thing has been hashed over before.. possibly even more than once...

As Carl has said - this is a 3D Printing forum. As such any discussion about "printers" here in this forum is in reference to 3D printers - unless clearly specified otherwise.

Would you go to a Chevy forum and talk about Toyota's or Volkswagen as if they were Chevy's?
No, you would not... if you did, you would be run off in a heartbeat.

So why do you insist on discussing anything about paper printers here? Paper printer operations do not apply here - period. Forget about them while you are here.

3d printing has never been like paper printing, and probably never will be like paper printing, so PLEASE - stop comparing the two!

Changing out the controller board on a 3d printer is not that difficult.
Getting the firmware configured and compiled correctly and uploaded to said controller board is the hardest part of the process.
The rest is simply making the correct physical connections for the various bits... endstops, motors, heaters, etc.

There are plenty of people here that have done this, including myself. Most of us are also willing to help those interested in also doing it - but - they have to be willing to take a little direction and understand the differences.

My suggestion to you, @n2ri, is to buy a kit printer (3d printer) and build it. Make it work.
Learn, and understand, the relationships of the various parts and how they go together to create a functioning machine.

If that is beyond your comfort zone, then it is probably best you leave well enough alone.


all 3D printer boards are obviously NOT built the same or My SD2 board would have the pins etc to 'plug in' things like the parts fan cooler and the Board would have the SD slot both features of which are in the software of RH but the hardware items are missing on early models sold yet included on models sold once SD3 came out. thats part of My main problem! and I was NOT the one that said "a printer is a printer" referring to some 3D printers that used a Printer board instead of a board made for 3D printer use. and those Printer Boards also had minor mods done. most of us that paid lots extra for a pre-assembled 3D printer done so because We are not into manufacturing electronics components so dont tell me to buy another 3D Printer kit and learn how to manufacture what I already paid for when I had the money to do so a few short years ago. I am disabled & on way below poverty level fixed income and such projects are way above both my pay scale & abilities. HOW DOES ALL THIS PETTY TROLLING HELP US GET OUR EXISTING 3D PRINTERS RUNNING AGAIN!? I have exhausted my ability to work on my SD2 and Atlas scanner trying to find lowest cost/least fiddling way to just get it back in working order and finish using my Filament inventory to print items last in Que. heck Carl is the one that told me to format my SD card on the Atlas Scanner and just upload a generic pi firmware image when I dont even own a program to read the pi files, so still waiting for the maker of the scanner to resend new image file before I can figure why it stopped connecting to my PC so I can complete upgrades on it. heck yeah if I was half as wealthy as you all must be, Id just Buy a new Form II & use My SD2 as a Boat anchor huh. this is NOT support, maybe thats why many people stopped posting. what happened to the nice noncritical members reply's like a couple years ago, We were so proud of? I used to be the Best HVAC tech around, my whole 50+ years career and even instructed classes on it. never did I make fun of, pick at or just tell students/customers to either change parts till it works or just throw an appliance away & buy a new can of worms to cuss at. I taught students how to become a real Tech and learn how to trouble shoot a broken unit to find what needs repaired/replaced before wasting time & money as a "parts changer".

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

54 Reply by carl_m1968 (edited by carl_m1968 2019-02-20 22:30:47)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri wrote:
heartless wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:

This is 3d printing forum. When we say printer it is understood as a 3d printer. A paper printer is not being discussed here. Think smaller. Printer equals 3d printer in this forum. The few times a paper printer was mentioned it was specified as a paper printer to indicate a different type of printer in the discussion from the norm.

When I said once the logic is removed a printer is just a printer I was talking about a 3D printer and yes all of them have the same basic hardware and operation. The only thing that sets them apart is the logic and firmware.

http://soliforum.com/i/?QsEixjo.jpg

Seems to me this kind of thing has been hashed over before.. possibly even more than once...

As Carl has said - this is a 3D Printing forum. As such any discussion about "printers" here in this forum is in reference to 3D printers - unless clearly specified otherwise.

Would you go to a Chevy forum and talk about Toyota's or Volkswagen as if they were Chevy's?
No, you would not... if you did, you would be run off in a heartbeat.

So why do you insist on discussing anything about paper printers here? Paper printer operations do not apply here - period. Forget about them while you are here.

3d printing has never been like paper printing, and probably never will be like paper printing, so PLEASE - stop comparing the two!

Changing out the controller board on a 3d printer is not that difficult.
Getting the firmware configured and compiled correctly and uploaded to said controller board is the hardest part of the process.
The rest is simply making the correct physical connections for the various bits... endstops, motors, heaters, etc.

There are plenty of people here that have done this, including myself. Most of us are also willing to help those interested in also doing it - but - they have to be willing to take a little direction and understand the differences.

My suggestion to you, @n2ri, is to buy a kit printer (3d printer) and build it. Make it work.
Learn, and understand, the relationships of the various parts and how they go together to create a functioning machine.

If that is beyond your comfort zone, then it is probably best you leave well enough alone.


all 3D printer boards are obviously NOT built the same or My SD2 board would have the pins etc to 'plug in' things like the parts fan cooler and the Board would have the SD slot both features of which are in the software of RH but the hardware items are missing on early models sold yet included on models sold once SD3 came out. thats part of My main problem! and I was NOT the one that said "a printer is a printer" referring to some 3D printers that used a Printer board instead of a board made for 3D printer use. and those Printer Boards also had minor mods done. most of use that paid lots extra for a pre-assembled 3D printer done so because We are not into manufacturing electronics components so dont tell me to buy another 3D Printer kit and learn how to manufacture what I already paid for when I had the money to do so a few short years ago. I am disabled & on way below poverty level fixed income and such projects are way above both my pay scale & abilities. HOW DOES ALL THIS PETTY TROLLING HELP US GET OUR EXISTING 3D PRINTERS RUNNING AGAIN!? I have exhausted my ability to work on my SD2 and Atlas scanner trying to find lowest cost/least fiddling way to just get it back in working order and finish using my Filament inventory to print items last in Que. heck Carl is the one that told me to format my SD card on the Atlas Scanner and just upload a generic pi firmware image when I dont even own a program to read the pi files, so still waiting for the maker of the scanner to resend new image file before I can figure why it stopped connecting to my PC so I can complete upgrades on it. heck yeah if I was half as wealthy as you all must be, Id just Buy a new Form II & use My SD2 as a Boat anchor huh. this is NOT support, maybe thats why many people stopped posting. what happened to the nice noncritical members reply's like a couple years ago, We were so proud of? I used to be the Best HVAC tech around, my whole 50+ years career and even instructed classes on it. never did I make fun of, pick at or just tell students/customers to either change parts till it works or just throw an appliance away & buy a new can of worms to cuss at. I taught students how to become a real Tech and learn how to trouble shoot a broken unit to find what needs repaired/replaced before wasting time & money as a "parts changer".


I told you to erase the image because you said you had an image you could put back on it. By doing so would default everything and get you back to square one. But that is not the topic here.

The topic is your confusion in terminology. There is no 3d printer that uses a mainboard that was originally intended for a paper printer. I think you are confusing a Printrboard for a Printer Board. Notice the difference? No "e", Printrboard is a brand not a type or purpose.

Your SD2 board was built for that machine (still a 3d Printer board) but that machine is still a 3d Printer and still has the same hardware that even new printers today have with exception to an autobed level sensor which is a gimmick in most cases. You can get a $40 RAMPS 1.4 setup with and LCD and SDcard capability on ebay and wire it into your hardware and it will work as it should given the era it is from. Your SD2 is an old machine. That machine is old as in a 2011 release date.

It will and does need updates and those do cost money. You seem to be trying to get a Ford Pinto to run like a Mustang for a few dollars and it just won't happen. 3D printing is not a hobby for those on a tight or no budget. It requires money. Except for those who have bought XYZ garbage and like it because they don't know any better I bet nearly everyone one here has spent at least $200 or more on their machine/s in upgrades and mods to get them to perform the way they want. Or to repair them and get them working again.  Heck I just spent $300 on my FDM to get  the bed stiff enough to print reliably and for a new X carriage and extruders so I can nozzle sizes. The old extruders where some weird type that did not use the standard threaded nozzles. I need larger SS nozzles so I can use wood and carbon fiber.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

55 Reply by Tin Falcon

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

N2ri like carl said if you do not have the skill set  to upgrade you current board go with a Ramps and a lcd setup. that way you can print tethered. there are other better boards but more money

I do believe heartless was trying to help in SUGESTING  A kit build  no pressure if you do not have the funds or the inclination.

This is a hobby it is superposed to be fun . Not a burden .

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

56 Reply by heartless

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

@n2ri

1. I NEVER said that "all 3d printer controller boards were the same". I believe you are assuming things here, and we all know what happens when you do that

2. if the current controller board in your SD2 does not fit your needs, and you are not willing to do the work required to make it fit your needs - then CHANGE IT!
     Both Ramps v1.4 and the MKS Gen 1.4 would be great "upgrades" for you, are VERY reasonably priced, and are pretty easy to flash.
     fwiw - the MKS board can be had (complete with stepper drivers, btw) for around $40, ready to install, flash your firmware and start printing.

3. The kit suggestion was just that, a suggestion. You could learn a GREAT deal by building one, but hey.. if you don't want to, then don't.. makes no difference to me either way. No reason to get all bent out of shape about it. geez. oh, and you would not have to "manufacture the electronics" with a modern kit.. the electronic parts are complete and ready to install these days.

4. Lets leave the scanner issues for the appropriate section of the forum, shall we?

5. to my knowledge, no one here is rich.
I barely make enough at my day job to pay my bills every month. If it weren't for a little side income from 3d printing I would not be able to do much of anything. and I do mean "a little".. maybe $75-100/mo on average.
I have scrimped and saved for every single upgrade I have made to my printers. They are now at the point that they are pretty much self sustaining - as in the money made from printing stuff for other people keeps me in filament and/or repair parts - depending on what is needed. It has even paid for groceries a couple of times.

If the printer is not working for you "as is", you are going to have to face the fact that you will either need to learn how to make it work for you - by soldering in the needed pins for your fan, or whatever it is you want, OR, you are going to have spend a few dollars and get something that WILL work for you with all the needed connections already in place. Those are the choices. Pick one.

I don't know what you are expecting, but obviously we are not offering whatever it is you think you want.
You have already determined that the needed pins are not available on the existing board - so, troubleshooting is basically over.. see the 2 choices above. If you are not willing to accept either of those choices, then I am very sorry, but there is nothing more that anyone here can do to help you.

If you feel like you are being picked on or made fun of, I am truly sorry, but perhaps it is because you keep kicking the same dead horse over and over again. You have been offered advice, but for some reason, known only to you, it is never what you want to hear, so you get upset that you aren't getting the answer that YOU want. People here are still willing to help, but you need to be willing to accept the help that is offered, even if it is not exactly what you want to hear.

3d printing is STILL not a "buy it off the shelf, plug it in & print perfectly" kind of thing. Never has been, and probably never will be.

I will now bow out of the conversation. Have fun.. or don't.. your choice.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

57 Reply by knowack (edited by knowack 2019-02-21 03:58:05)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Soapbox1858 wrote:

Then I had to spend a while fiddling with the z stop bolt, and leveling the bed. I think my bed may have a bit of a bow in the middle to it, so the leveling isnt perfect. (I think its always had the bow)

Consider ordering a piece of borosilicate glass from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/150mm-Borosilica … B01IB2CC7W

Use 3 or 4 bankers clips at the edges to fasten it to your bed.  It is flat, and blue painter's tape sticks to it very well...or if you're a hairspray guy, a light dusting of AquaNet will help your prints stick.  I use glass and blue tape on my SD4 and SDWB.

I think I got the SD2 bed size right at 6"...if not shop around for the right size.

-Kevin

58 Reply by n2ri (edited by n2ri 2019-02-21 07:45:56)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

"the MKS Gen 1.4 would be great "upgrades" for you, are VERY reasonably priced, and are pretty easy to flash.
     fwiw - the MKS board can be had (complete with stepper drivers, btw) for around $40, ready to install, flash your firmware and start printing."

where can I get one of these and does anyone know if they have the part cooling fan pins? also where do I get the firmware so it will work with same RH etc like my old SD2? thanks for the suggestions. this looks like what I need plus an E3D lite to get back going.
also is this board much different than the SD2 board as for as mounting and plugging stuff back on new board?

Thanks

PS like this? https://www.amazon.com/KINGPRINT-Contro … &psc=1


1 error noted in many reviews was "
As others mentioned the LCD pin sockets are reversed. It was easy to gently pry off the black sleeve, flip it 180 degrees and slide it back on. No modification of cable notch required."

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

59 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

knowack wrote:

n2ri,

I'm still running the stock PrintrBoard.

I often print with TPU (NinjaFlex), which is one reason I did the upgrades.  TPU is also the reason I stayed with direct-drive extruders.

-Kevin

any upgraded motors from originals?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

60 Reply by Tin Falcon

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

https://www.printitindustries.com/search?q=motor

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

61 Reply by Soapbox1858 (edited by Soapbox1858 2019-02-21 18:51:51)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

knowack wrote:

Consider ordering a piece of borosilicate glass from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/150mm-Borosilica … B01IB2CC7W

Use 3 or 4 bankers clips at the edges to fasten it to your bed.  It is flat, and blue painter's tape sticks to it very well...or if you're a hairspray guy, a light dusting of AquaNet will help your prints stick.  I use glass and blue tape on my SD4 and SDWB.

I think I got the SD2 bed size right at 6"...if not shop around for the right size.

-Kevin

That's an interesting idea. I may look into it more.

At the moment, I have a question about tension on the extruder. What can go wrong if the bearing is tightened to much against the filament/drive gear? (Other than mashing and deforming the filament of course.)

I keep having the same issues where midway through a print, it loses tension just a little and the filament stops feeding. Am I just being to cautious and need to crank it down more?

62 Reply by Kronikabuse

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Soapbox1858 wrote:
knowack wrote:

Consider ordering a piece of borosilicate glass from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/150mm-Borosilica … B01IB2CC7W

Use 3 or 4 bankers clips at the edges to fasten it to your bed.  It is flat, and blue painter's tape sticks to it very well...or if you're a hairspray guy, a light dusting of AquaNet will help your prints stick.  I use glass and blue tape on my SD4 and SDWB.

I think I got the SD2 bed size right at 6"...if not shop around for the right size.

-Kevin

That's an interesting idea. I may look into it more.

At the moment, I have a question about tension on the extruder. What can go wrong if the bearing is tightened to much against the filatment/drive gear? (Other than mashing and deforming the filament of course.)

I keep having the same issues where midway through a print, it loses tension just a little and the filament stops feeding. Am I just being to cautious and need to crank it down more?

Do not use binder clips to hold the glass on. The clips will transfer the warp from the bed to the glass. Use hair spray between the glass and the bed.Spray the glass liberally but you dont want it dripping, than heat it up and cool it down 4-5 times. and the glass will be stuck hard. But you will still be able to get it off when you need using a putty knife

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm

63 Reply by Soapbox1858

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Kronikabuse wrote:

Do not use binder clips to hold the glass on. The clips will transfer the warp from the bed to the glass. Use hair spray between the glass and the bed.Spray the glass liberally but you dont want it dripping, than heat it up and cool it down 4-5 times. and the glass will be stuck hard. But you will still be able to get it off when you need using a putty knife


Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking too about the warping transfering. Hairspray seems like a good idea. Ill keep it in mind if i end up messing with a glass plate.

64 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Soapbox1858 wrote:
knowack wrote:

Consider ordering a piece of borosilicate glass from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/150mm-Borosilica … B01IB2CC7W

Use 3 or 4 bankers clips at the edges to fasten it to your bed.  It is flat, and blue painter's tape sticks to it very well...or if you're a hairspray guy, a light dusting of AquaNet will help your prints stick.  I use glass and blue tape on my SD4 and SDWB.

I think I got the SD2 bed size right at 6"...if not shop around for the right size.

-Kevin

That's an interesting idea. I may look into it more.

At the moment, I have a question about tension on the extruder. What can go wrong if the bearing is tightened to much against the filament/drive gear? (Other than mashing and deforming the filament of course.)

I keep having the same issues where midway through a print, it loses tension just a little and the filament stops feeding. Am I just being to cautious and need to crank it down more?


As long as it is not crushing the filament you should be fine. Most mid print feed issues can be caused by temperature drops. You may want to raise your temp 5 degrees. Remember the temp at the nozzle is usually lower that the reported temp. Further more the reported temp may not be accurate either. I usually print at the max temp specified by the filament maker and sometimes even go over that by 5.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

65 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

carl_m1968 wrote:
Soapbox1858 wrote:
knowack wrote:

Consider ordering a piece of borosilicate glass from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/150mm-Borosilica … B01IB2CC7W

Use 3 or 4 bankers clips at the edges to fasten it to your bed.  It is flat, and blue painter's tape sticks to it very well...or if you're a hairspray guy, a light dusting of AquaNet will help your prints stick.  I use glass and blue tape on my SD4 and SDWB.

I think I got the SD2 bed size right at 6"...if not shop around for the right size.

-Kevin

That's an interesting idea. I may look into it more.

At the moment, I have a question about tension on the extruder. What can go wrong if the bearing is tightened to much against the filament/drive gear? (Other than mashing and deforming the filament of course.)

I keep having the same issues where midway through a print, it loses tension just a little and the filament stops feeding. Am I just being to cautious and need to crank it down more?


As long as it is not crushing the filament you should be fine. Most mid print feed issues can be caused by temperature drops. You may want to raise your temp 5 degrees. Remember the temp at the nozzle is usually lower that the reported temp. Further more the reported temp may not be accurate either. I usually print at the max temp specified by the filament maker and sometimes even go over that by 5.


this is true and faster print speeds tend to increase that issue due to not being able to melt fast enough. also partial blockage/clogged nozzle which I think my issue still is due to Peek deformation at some point, hence needing all metal Hot end. the other upgrades I need to improve performance of printing and full use of the all metal hot end.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

66 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

is there still a silicone bed heater for full surface of an SD2 6x6 bed or equivalent and how much is it? that lil firecracker heater is killing my big prints and prints that sit either on center or spread out past its heat. and is such a heater available at Printit ind?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

67 Reply by n2ri (edited by n2ri 2019-02-21 22:07:44)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

knowack wrote:
Soapbox1858 wrote:

Then I had to spend a while fiddling with the z stop bolt, and leveling the bed. I think my bed may have a bit of a bow in the middle to it, so the leveling isnt perfect. (I think its always had the bow)

Consider ordering a piece of borosilicate glass from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/150mm-Borosilica … B01IB2CC7W

Use 3 or 4 bankers clips at the edges to fasten it to your bed.  It is flat, and blue painter's tape sticks to it very well...or if you're a hairspray guy, a light dusting of AquaNet will help your prints stick.  I use glass and blue tape on my SD4 and SDWB.

I think I got the SD2 bed size right at 6"...if not shop around for the right size.

-Kevin

after reading about some issues others had with borosilicate separating etc. I went with tempered Glass single pane at hardware store had 2 pieces cut to size for my SD2 sanded sharp edges a bit with "Plumbers strip sanding cloth" then used the hair spray technique posted on this forum long ago and let it heat and cool 2x then I use Elmer's glue sticks to aid prints sticking (sometimes you have to remove the goo with rubbing Alcohol and damp paper towel then re-apply after a few prints) but it has worked great for years and have yet to break 1st piece of glass so still have a spare laying in bottom of printer. and no more hair spray smell/mess over-spray. just use my Holmes air purifier filter/fan to rid ABS fumes. most prints pop loose after cooled a few need slight persuasion with one of my thin spatulas or Razor. the Cake icing spreader long thin SS from Walmart is my fav.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

68 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri wrote:

is there still a silicone bed heater for full surface of an SD2 6x6 bed or equivalent and how much is it? that lil firecracker heater is killing my big prints and prints that sit either on center or spread out past its heat. and is such a heater available at Printit ind?


so does anyone have or know where I can get a full surface bed heater like the Silicone one made couple years ago for my SD6 6"x6" NOT 8"x8" like SD3/4 use. a member on here had 1-2 they didnt use for reasonable price about a year ago.

starting to look like between $100-$200 to get the rest of parts needed to do all the Upgrades on My SD2 wasnt there a maker-forge clone dual extruder 3D printer for like $300-$400? would that be a better option or just different parts needing upgraded.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

69 Reply by heartless

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri wrote:

so does anyone have or know where I can get a full surface bed heater like the Silicone one made couple years ago for my SD6 6"x6" NOT 8"x8" like SD3/4 use. a member on here had 1-2 they didnt use for reasonable price about a year ago.

starting to look like between $100-$200 to get the rest of parts needed to do all the Upgrades on My SD2 wasnt there a maker-forge clone dual extruder 3D printer for like $300-$400? would that be a better option or just different parts needing upgraded.

the SD3/4 bed heater is only 6-1/4" square - it had the same problem with cold edges that you are experiencing.

tell ya what - i have a complete SD4 bed that I pulled out of one of my machines when upgrading - complete with wiring, thermistor, insulation, the whole works - to my knowledge it is still very functional.
you pay for the shipping and it is yours to do with as you please. Pull it apart and try to fit the silicone pad to yours, or whatever.
Flat rate Priority Mail padded envelope is $7.55

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

70 Reply by 2n2r5 (edited by 2n2r5 2019-02-24 03:33:31)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

heartless wrote:
n2ri wrote:

so does anyone have or know where I can get a full surface bed heater like the Silicone one made couple years ago for my SD6 6"x6" NOT 8"x8" like SD3/4 use. a member on here had 1-2 they didnt use for reasonable price about a year ago.

starting to look like between $100-$200 to get the rest of parts needed to do all the Upgrades on My SD2 wasnt there a maker-forge clone dual extruder 3D printer for like $300-$400? would that be a better option or just different parts needing upgraded.

the SD3/4 bed heater is only 6-1/4" square - it had the same problem with cold edges that you are experiencing.

tell ya what - i have a complete SD4 bed that I pulled out of one of my machines when upgrading - complete with wiring, thermistor, insulation, the whole works - to my knowledge it is still very functional.
you pay for the shipping and it is yours to do with as you please. Pull it apart and try to fit the silicone pad to yours, or whatever.
Flat rate Priority Mail padded envelope is $7.55


Heartless, I love you. That is what this forum is about!

N2ri, a 150mm X 150 mm heat bet can be found on amazon for about* $40

https://www.amazon.com/KEENOVO-Silicone … amp;sr=8-1

I would strongly suggest heartless's offer.


*edit, spelling of normal words

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

71 Reply by justsomeguy (edited by justsomeguy 2019-02-24 14:55:55)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Soapbox1858 wrote:

That's an interesting idea. I may look into it more.

At the moment, I have a question about tension on the extruder. What can go wrong if the bearing is tightened to much against the filament/drive gear? (Other than mashing and deforming the filament of course.)

I keep having the same issues where midway through a print, it loses tension just a little and the filament stops feeding. Am I just being to cautious and need to crank it down more?

A couple of other thoughts for you that have been issues for me.

1. On my Solidoodle, the fan attached to the extruder heatsink often needs a little push to get going when I start the printer. If I forget to do this on a longer print, heat creeps through the entire extruder to the drive gear and then softens the plastic enough that it starts to slip.

2. If the filament drive gear is not perfectly aligned on the stepper shaft, the filament can pop out from between the drive gear and the tension arm bearing. At a quick glance it looks ok but the filiament is actually completely loose at this point and is not being driven at all. Realigning the drive gear on the shaft solves this for me.

72 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

justsomeguy wrote:
Soapbox1858 wrote:

That's an interesting idea. I may look into it more.

At the moment, I have a question about tension on the extruder. What can go wrong if the bearing is tightened to much against the filament/drive gear? (Other than mashing and deforming the filament of course.)

I keep having the same issues where midway through a print, it loses tension just a little and the filament stops feeding. Am I just being to cautious and need to crank it down more?

A couple of other thoughts for you that have been issues for me.

1. On my Solidoodle, the fan attached to the extruder heatsink often needs a little push to get going when I start the printer. If I forget to do this on a longer print, heat creeps through the entire extruder to the drive gear and then softens the plastic enough that it starts to slip.

2. If the filament drive gear is not perfectly aligned on the stepper shaft, the filament can pop out from between the drive gear and the tension arm bearing. At a quick glance it looks ok but the filiament is actually completely loose at this point and is not being driven at all. Realigning the drive gear on the shaft solves this for me.


yeah that fan in back of extruder became an issue on mine soon as I got it when my Bro inlaw said "THIS FAN ISNT RUNNING IS IT? I CANT HEAR IT" as he stuck his finger in it and damaged it. then you could always hear it if it ran lol

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

73 Reply by n2ri (edited by n2ri 2019-02-24 18:59:12)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

heartless wrote:
n2ri wrote:

so does anyone have or know where I can get a full surface bed heater like the Silicone one made couple years ago for my SD6 6"x6" NOT 8"x8" like SD3/4 use. a member on here had 1-2 they didnt use for reasonable price about a year ago.

starting to look like between $100-$200 to get the rest of parts needed to do all the Upgrades on My SD2 wasnt there a maker-forge clone dual extruder 3D printer for like $300-$400? would that be a better option or just different parts needing upgraded.

the SD3/4 bed heater is only 6-1/4" square - it had the same problem with cold edges that you are experiencing.

tell ya what - i have a complete SD4 bed that I pulled out of one of my machines when upgrading - complete with wiring, thermistor, insulation, the whole works - to my knowledge it is still very functional.
you pay for the shipping and it is yours to do with as you please. Pull it apart and try to fit the silicone pad to yours, or whatever.
Flat rate Priority Mail padded envelope is $7.55

I thought the SD3/4 also used the small resister heater in center like SD2 from factory?
an Orange  silicone heat pad was sold after market for a bit which was full size of print beds. do you know the Wattage of the heater?
Thanks, PM sent

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

74 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

2n2r5 wrote:
heartless wrote:
n2ri wrote:

so does anyone have or know where I can get a full surface bed heater like the Silicone one made couple years ago for my SD6 6"x6" NOT 8"x8" like SD3/4 use. a member on here had 1-2 they didnt use for reasonable price about a year ago.

starting to look like between $100-$200 to get the rest of parts needed to do all the Upgrades on My SD2 wasnt there a maker-forge clone dual extruder 3D printer for like $300-$400? would that be a better option or just different parts needing upgraded.

the SD3/4 bed heater is only 6-1/4" square - it had the same problem with cold edges that you are experiencing.

tell ya what - i have a complete SD4 bed that I pulled out of one of my machines when upgrading - complete with wiring, thermistor, insulation, the whole works - to my knowledge it is still very functional.
you pay for the shipping and it is yours to do with as you please. Pull it apart and try to fit the silicone pad to yours, or whatever.
Flat rate Priority Mail padded envelope is $7.55


Heartless, I love you. That is what this forum is about!

N2ri, a 150mm X 150 mm heat bet can be found on amazon for about* $40

https://www.amazon.com/KEENOVO-Silicone … amp;sr=8-1

I would strongly suggest heartless's offer.


*edit, spelling of normal words

yeah they range from $8-$80 but none have mounting screw holes in the SD 2-4 triangle pattern and cant just punch holes anywhere in that type heater

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

75 Reply by n2ri (edited by n2ri 2019-02-24 19:30:06)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

print industrys Hob Goblin shows SOLD OUT like several other items. how much is it and are more coming? so far my yet needed upgrade items are aprox $170 for my SD2. besides all the 3D printed parts and other parts I have waiting to be installed. and still wont have duel extruders or bigger than 6x6 inch build surface which can be had for $100 more with new printer on ebay. and I paid $750 for my SD2 5-6 years ago lol

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs