26 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Figure out how to flash the firmware to accept higher max temps and proper thermistor type.  All information can be found on the WIKI.  If you aren’t sure which board you have, just post a picture.  http://www.soliwiki.com/Updating_Solidoodle_Firmware

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27 Reply by Soapbox1858

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

knowack wrote:

You should download the latest version of Repetier-Host.  It comes with Slic3r, Slic3r Prusa Edition, and Cura Engine...all three produce good results, and you're certain to find one to your liking.  What was your previous version of R-H?

-Kevin

I was using the latest version as I had just installed it to try it out. I was probably missing something, but the software kept fighting me on what temperature settings to extrude at, and what to heat the bed at. Which caused the printer to send errors back and stop printing. No matter where I changed the temperature settings, it would change them back to some other default. (Again I was probably missing something.)

However, in Mattercontrol the settings I adjusted saved, and it printed just fine (at least for the current state of the hardware.)

I may experiment with RH again, but for now I am liking MC.

28 Reply by Soapbox1858

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

wardjr wrote:

Figure out how to flash the firmware to accept higher max temps and proper thermistor type.  All information can be found on the WIKI.  If you aren’t sure which board you have, just post a picture.  http://www.soliwiki.com/Updating_Solidoodle_Firmware

Yep, I have read over that already in anticipation. Once the parts get in and I have a chance to work on it I will likely have more questions.

29 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Tin Falcon wrote:

The Hobb Goblin from E3D is an excellent filament drive gear with a small diameter for greater torque and sharp teeth for a better grip. This is one of the easiest and most affordable modifications you can make to your printer that will significantly improve its resolution over most stock drive gears.

all these mods also require new board correct?

no !!

how much would the hot end cost and is the E3 lite OK for the SD2 upgrade? I

they are fine as long as you stay below 245 c of you want to go higher > 400 c you need a full metal e3d.

$32  USD current sale from

https://www.printedsolid.com/collection … ucts/lite6

I was always told on here the original board on SD2 wont work with the new hotends and other items it dont even have connections for and it also has issues burning out parts on itself
iirc enabling the pins is a simple firware mod.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

30 Reply by Tin Falcon

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

I was always told on here the original board on SD2 wont work with the new hotends and other items it dont even have connections for and it also has issues burning out parts on itself

hmm  I do not see where this would be true  . I can not see having extras fan connections but if it takes the original hot end  i do not see why one could not upgrade. As ward j mentioned the firmware likely needs to be upgraded to acept higher temp limits and the propper therisistor. also a better power supply may be needed depending on heater wattage and if adding a new heat bed.  as the original PS is a bit marginal.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
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31 Reply by Soapbox1858

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Tin Falcon wrote:

hmm  I do not see where this would be true  . I can not see having extras fan connections but if it takes the original hot end  i do not see why one could not upgrade. As ward j mentioned the firmware likely needs to be upgraded to acept higher temp limits and the propper therisistor. also a better power supply may be needed depending on heater wattage and if adding a new heat bed.  as the original PS is a bit marginal.


I do have a question about that, are people upgrading power supplies using standard PC PSUs? I wasn't quite sure based on what I have read on other posts about it. I've got a spare 600W PSU sitting unused. Though I'd rather not mess with it if I don't have to.

32 Reply by Kronikabuse

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Lots of us use supernight PSUs https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … wer-supply

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
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Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm

33 Reply by heartless

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Kronikabuse wrote:

Lots of us use supernight PSUs https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … wer-supply

^^ that right there.. relatively cheap, and easy to do

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
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34 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Tin Falcon wrote:

The Hobb Goblin from E3D is an excellent filament drive gear with a small diameter for greater torque and sharp teeth for a better grip. This is one of the easiest and most affordable modifications you can make to your printer that will significantly improve its resolution over most stock drive gears.

all these mods also require new board correct?

no !!

how much would the hot end cost and is the E3 lite OK for the SD2 upgrade? I

they are fine as long as you stay below 245 c of you want to go higher > 400 c you need a full metal e3d.

$32  USD current sale from

https://www.printedsolid.com/collection … ucts/lite6


iirc enabling the pins is a simple firware mod.

on the original SD2 board the Pins for cooling fan are not soldered/wired so firmware wont fix it. also the Motor drives are sodered on board not plug in and power supply is soldered on small pins that tend to burn/get loose. this is why I was always told need new board like Rumba or ?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

35 Reply by Tin Falcon

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

I do not know exactly which board you have. If you feel you need replace it then do it. a ramps setup can be had for about $40

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

36 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

knowack wrote:

I put an E3Dv6 (.4mm) and HobbGoblin on my SD4.  I also bought a Calidum heated bed from PrintItIndustries.  That required flashing the firmware to accommodate the updates, so I enabled the gcode fan and EXP ports. 

Now it's the AK-47 of 3D printing.  It keeps churning out great prints, very little maintenance, don't have to constantly fiddle with it, and very rarely have a failed print of any kind.  With the upgraded components, I regularly print ABS, PETG, nylon, and POM.  I don't print woodfill with it, due to the nozzle size; I'm setting up a separate printer for that.

It's certainly been worth the time and expense of upgrades; ultimately you need to do what's right for you.

-Kevin

what board are you using?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

37 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri wrote:
knowack wrote:

I put an E3Dv6 (.4mm) and HobbGoblin on my SD4.  I also bought a Calidum heated bed from PrintItIndustries.  That required flashing the firmware to accommodate the updates, so I enabled the gcode fan and EXP ports. 

Now it's the AK-47 of 3D printing.  It keeps churning out great prints, very little maintenance, don't have to constantly fiddle with it, and very rarely have a failed print of any kind.  With the upgraded components, I regularly print ABS, PETG, nylon, and POM.  I don't print woodfill with it, due to the nozzle size; I'm setting up a separate printer for that.

It's certainly been worth the time and expense of upgrades; ultimately you need to do what's right for you.

-Kevin

what board are you using?

also do you do any flexible filaments with that setup?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

38 Reply by Soapbox1858

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri wrote:

on the original SD2 board the Pins for cooling fan are not soldered/wired so firmware wont fix it. also the Motor drives are sodered on board not plug in and power supply is soldered on small pins that tend to burn/get loose. this is why I was always told need new board like Rumba or ?


The board on my SD2 has plugs or screws for all the externals. None of them are soldered.

http://soliforum.com/i/?yF6iXSA.jpg

39 Reply by heartless

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

that is the old Sanguinololu board and is worth keeping if it is still functional.

the stepper drivers are replaceable on that one.

more info can be found here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

40 Reply by knowack

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri,

I'm still running the stock PrintrBoard.

I often print with TPU (NinjaFlex), which is one reason I did the upgrades.  TPU is also the reason I stayed with direct-drive extruders.

-Kevin

41 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Soapbox1858 wrote:
n2ri wrote:

on the original SD2 board the Pins for cooling fan are not soldered/wired so firmware wont fix it. also the Motor drives are sodered on board not plug in and power supply is soldered on small pins that tend to burn/get loose. this is why I was always told need new board like Rumba or ?


The board on my SD2 has plugs or screws for all the externals. None of them are soldered.

http://soliforum.com/i/?yF6iXSA.jpg

same type I have but the connections for the RH controlled part cooling fan are some of the ones in the row of solder filled holes on right side under a short group of empty pins and the pins and a jumper wire needed are not installed. there is a post in archives here somebody shows how to do it ifs your good at circuit board mods which Im not.

is this the board you use with the new upgrades? do you use a E3D lite or normal E3D? and can you do flexible filaments with this? I would like to be able to at some point besides the ABS I normally use.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

42 Reply by n2ri (edited by n2ri 2019-02-18 06:46:52)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

heartless wrote:

that is the old Sanguinololu board and is worth keeping if it is still functional.

the stepper drivers are replaceable on that one.

more info can be found here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu

the stepper drivers on these are soldered to board and NOT the easy replaceable plug in type. there was an older version and newer version model. as your link states. Sanguinololu versions 0.7 and newer, including the current versions. For older versions see Sanguinololu_0.6.

the 1st couple years of SD2 had the older like Mine and this one.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

43 Reply by n2ri (edited by n2ri 2019-02-18 06:55:51)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri wrote:
heartless wrote:

that is the old Sanguinololu board and is worth keeping if it is still functional.

the stepper drivers are replaceable on that one.

more info can be found here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu

the stepper drivers on these are soldered to board and NOT the easy replaceable plug in type. there was an older version and newer version model. as your link states. Sanguinololu versions 0.7 and newer, including the current versions. For older versions see Sanguinololu_0.6.

the 1st couple years of SD2 had the older like Mine and this one.

wait the 6 pins in upper right corner are not on my board is that what determines which version board is? what about main board color and plug in stepper drivers?

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

44 Reply by heartless

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri...

you do know you can edit a post if you want to add something to your original post, yes?
rather than making multiple posts in a row.. just edit the first one.. please.

there should be a version number on the board itself. look for the board name - the version number is usually with that - either next to it, or under it. (Ver ## or Rev ##)
In the above picture, it looks like it should be in the lower left corner near the X axis plug. the image is not clear enough to actually read the version, however.

looking at the older version page (https://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu_0.6) the stepper drivers are not soldered directly - it also has the removable stepper drivers...

For what it is worth.. this is NOT the v0.6 or older.. that subset had 4 pin molex connectors for a computer style psu & hard drive power plug (see the circled bits in the image below).. the OP's board has no such connectors, therefore it has to be a version 0.7 or newer.. i would assume yours is also

http://soliforum.com/i/?V1SSCXr.jpg

I understand if you, or others, are not comfortable with soldering pins for a fan to the board, but in truth, it really is not that difficult to do with the right tools.
If you do not have the right tools, then it is probably best that you do not attempt such a thing.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

45 Reply by Kronikabuse

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

heartless wrote:

n2ri...



I understand if you, or others, are not comfortable with soldering pins for a fan to the board, but in truth, it really is not that difficult to do with the right tools.
If you do not have the right tools, then it is probably best that you do not attempt such a thing.

Or a good learning opportunity and chance to get new tools

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm

46 Reply by Soapbox1858

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

Based on what I read on the wiki, I just spliced the lite6 hotend fan into the lead for the extruder motors fan. I'm more comfortable soldering a couple wires together than pins onto a board. Mostly because my soldering iron is a piece of crap.

47 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

yeah but I want to be able to control part cooling fan from RH as intended (also it has buttons for SD card but non on board) I dont want to ruin the only board available for my SD2 so not gonna experiment/practice on it. gonna need wires & sockets too.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

48 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri wrote:

yeah but I want to be able to control part cooling fan from RH as intended (also it has buttons for SD card but non on board) I dont want to ruin the only board available for my SD2 so not gonna experiment/practice on it. gonna need wires & sockets too.


So then get a different board that does what you want. Once the logic is removed, a printer is nothing but a printer.  The motors, endstops, and function are all the same regardless of name. Virtually any controller can be used to control any printer. There is nothing at the hardware level that makes them unique. A RAMPS 1.4 would be more than enough for SD hardware and have the output control you desire.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

49 Reply by n2ri

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

but 3D printers are NOT like paper printers and dont even connect the same or only have the limited devices to operate as a paper printer. if they were you could use Windows "ADD NEW PRINTER" app and even plug a parallel port cable in. cant compare Apples and Pineapples just because they both have the word Apple in name dont make them the same thing. think bigger.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

50 Reply by carl_m1968 (edited by carl_m1968 2019-02-20 12:33:59)

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Re: Is it worth trying to keep my Solidoodle 2 going?

n2ri wrote:

but 3D printers are NOT like paper printers and dont even connect the same or only have the limited devices to operate as a paper printer. if they were you could use Windows "ADD NEW PRINTER" app and even plug a parallel port cable in. cant compare Apples and Pineapples just because they both have the word Apple in name dont make them the same thing. think bigger.

This is 3d printing forum. When we say printer it is understood as a 3d printer. A paper printer is not being discussed here. Think smaller. Printer equals 3d printer in this forum. The few times a paper printer was mentioned it was specified as a paper printer to indicate a different type of printer in the discussion from the norm.

When I said once the logic is removed a printer is just a printer I was talking about a 3D printer and yes all of them have the same basic hardware and operation. The only thing that sets them apart is the logic and firmware.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.