Re: New filastruder user!
Well to be fair, the damage was caused in the first place by the current limit on the stall protection board being set significantly higher than is recommended.
Did you open the gearbox to inspect what might be jamming it?
Re: New filastruder user!
I did another mistake more serious than the previous one. I plugged 12v to the gearbox without the stall protection board and "without" any load while it was jammed . (I did it before you send the message) It was something inside the gearbox indeed which was blocking the mechanism and the two metal gears broke. after the first inspect when the plastic gears broke I closed back the gearbox and I opened it only for the repair. I don't know how the insect went in there 
I need to make another order soon. I will call it a noob's learning curve. Thank you for your support.
28 2017-04-04 14:48:53 (edited by LamprosPat 2017-04-04 15:47:50)
Re: New filastruder user!
Hi. My filastruder is up and running. I took the long way. I have a question, well, maybe two. I get constant flow but the stall protection board can't get more than 1.2-1.3 amps. As I understand that's fine but how I can tune it correctly? If it cannot exceed these rates means that the setting screw must be at a safe position. Am I correct? Apologize for my English.
Re: New filastruder user!
Suddently the amps dropped down to .6. what can cause this? The hopper had enough pellets. I have already finished the abs that came with. Is now clean enough to use the filament after that or should I throw some more pellets? Should I clean the nozzle's filter after the cleaning process? Thank's.
Re: New filastruder user!
LamprosPat wrote:
Hi. My filastruder is up and running. I took the long way. I have a question, well, maybe two. I get constant flow but the stall protection board can't get more than 1.2-1.3 amps. As I understand that's fine but how I can tune it correctly? If it cannot exceed these rates means that the setting screw must be at a safe position. Am I correct? Apologize for my English.
1.2-1.3 amps is normal. What LEDs are lit (which color)?
Re: New filastruder user!
LamprosPat wrote:
Suddently the amps dropped down to .6. what can cause this? The hopper had enough pellets. I have already finished the abs that came with.
This is normal if the barrel does not have any plastic in it. The motor draws less current when it is not under load.
LamprosPat wrote:
Is now clean enough to use the filament after that or should I throw some more pellets? Should I clean the nozzle's filter after the cleaning process? Thank's
Yes, should be fine. You can clean the filter if you like.
32 2017-04-04 17:40:57 (edited by LamprosPat 2017-04-04 23:42:38)
Re: New filastruder user!
It doesn't extrude. it stopped. Is drawing only .4 now no matter how much I turn the right screw. I repeat the hopper is full of pellets. Is the stall protection board fried?
Re: New filastruder user!
I broke this small ball at the temperature sensor. is that alright if I cut it, twist it and stick it in there?
I still get 0.4 amps with hopper filled up and it doesn't extrude.
Re: New filastruder user!
I get blue and green light.
35 2017-04-04 21:56:28 (edited by Voyex 2017-04-04 21:59:54)
Re: New filastruder user!
LamprosPat wrote:
I broke this small ball at the temperature sensor. is that alright if I cut it, twist it and stick it in there?
I still get 0.4 amps with hopper filled up and it doesn't extrude.
I don't believe it works if you just twist it together but if you have any k type thermistors from a 3d printer for example you should be able to use those
Example:
Re: New filastruder user!
LamprosPat wrote:
It doesn't extude. it stopped. Is drawing only .4 now no matter how much I turn the right screw. I repeat the hopper is full of pellets. Is the stall protection board fried?
Did the auger bit stop spinning?
Re: New filastruder user!
LamprosPat wrote:
I get blue and green light.
Blue indicates anywhere from 10% to 99% of your current limit blue is normal operation
Green indicates that you are using less than 10% of the available current limit that usually means that the motor is not driving anything.
Re: New filastruder user!
LamprosPat wrote:
It doesn't extude. it stopped. Is drawing only .4 now no matter how much I turn the right screw. I repeat the hopper is full of pellets. Is the stall protection board fried?
You should not ever mess with either screw of the stall protection board. They should be set according to the instructions and left that way.
Is the auger rotating when the stall protection board is reading 0.4A?
0.4 amps is a very low current, it indicated the motor is running unloaded.
Re: New filastruder user!
Voyex wrote:
LamprosPat wrote:I broke this small ball at the temperature sensor. is that alright if I cut it, twist it and stick it in there?
I still get 0.4 amps with hopper filled up and it doesn't extrude.I don't believe it works if you just twist it together but if you have any k type thermistors from a 3d printer for example you should be able to use those
Example:
For clarity's sake, it is a thermocouple, not a thermistor.
LamprosPat: Any K-type thermocouple is a suitable replacement. It would probably be better to source one locally. They are often supplied with cheap multimeters.
Re: New filastruder user!
Voyex wrote:
LamprosPat wrote:I broke this small ball at the temperature sensor. is that alright if I cut it, twist it and stick it in there?
I still get 0.4 amps with hopper filled up and it doesn't extrude.I don't believe it works if you just twist it together but if you have any k type thermistors from a 3d printer for example you should be able to use those
Example:
I have, thank's for the tip.
Re: New filastruder user!
elmoret wrote:
For clarity's sake, it is a thermocouple, not a thermistor
Of course. I was just suggesting that he use a thermistor from a 3d printer in the mean time.
Re: New filastruder user!
LamprosPat wrote:
It doesn't extrude. it stopped. Is drawing only .4 now no matter how much I turn the right screw. I repeat the hopper is full of pellets. Is the stall protection board fried?
Dumb question but is the auger bit attached to the motor? Because that seems like the motor isn't under any load
Re: New filastruder user!
elmoret wrote:
Voyex wrote:LamprosPat wrote:I broke this small ball at the temperature sensor. is that alright if I cut it, twist it and stick it in there?
I still get 0.4 amps with hopper filled up and it doesn't extrude.I don't believe it works if you just twist it together but if you have any k type thermistors from a 3d printer for example you should be able to use those
Example:For clarity's sake, it is a thermocouple, not a thermistor.
LamprosPat: Any K-type thermocouple is a suitable replacement. It would probably be better to source one locally. They are often supplied with cheap multimeters.
cheap multimeters don't work. ask me.
Re: New filastruder user!
Excuse me I won't answer seperately, my English are terrible to say the same things with different words. So yes, I know it sounds weird. The auger is turning but is not pushing pellets. I took apart the nozzle and isn't blocked. I tried without nozzle and even then is not pushing and the screw is turning at max 0.4 amps. I get 12v output. The screw is turning the normal way, I didn't touch it. that happend while I had like 50 gramms to finish the pellets that came with. before it was flowing like a charm. I almost finish one pound pellets in 4 hours total. I will heat the tube and take the auger out to see what is going on. Silly question I asked where to set the amps screw when I have a red light indicates max current...
Re: New filastruder user!
If the auger is turning but no plastic is coming out, it sounds like plastic is stuck to the auger and not feeding through.
Re: New filastruder user!
Voyex wrote:
elmoret wrote:For clarity's sake, it is a thermocouple, not a thermistor
Of course. I was just suggesting that he use a thermistor from a 3d printer in the mean time.
I don't believe the PID controller supports a thermistor. According to the documentation K, S, Wre, T, E, J, B, N, CU50, and PT100 sensors are supported.
If a thermistor was supported I don't know where the beta value would be set.
Re: New filastruder user!
So if your auger is spinning but plastic isn't coming out then you either have a blockage of plastic in the auger bit or the barrel possibly rotated and then the feed hole in the barrel is no longer lined up with the hopper.
48 2017-04-05 16:18:07 (edited by LamprosPat 2017-04-05 16:31:05)
Re: New filastruder user!
Thank you for the interest. I woke up this morning and took the auger out. It came out by hand. This is what happened.
Re: New filastruder user!
Do you please guys know how much is the distance between the auger's tip and the coupling's tip? Thank you.
Re: New filastruder user!
LamprosPat wrote:
Do you please guys know how much is the distance between the auger's tip and the coupling's tip? Thank you.
The shaft coupling should be placed 80-84.5mm up from the base of the auger bit (the part where the auger connects to the motor). And the tip of the auger bit should stick out 2-10mm from the barrel (With nozzle and coupling removed)