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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → New filastruder user!
Hi folks. I haven't got my kit so far but it will pop up soon by the courier company!!!I am reading the forum for more knowledge and less troubleshooting. I just wanted to say hi and we will be in touch. Please keep this topic enable for any questions I have in the future. Thank you.
Lampros. 
Welcome Lampros hope you get as much out of your filastruder as I have,
Hi.I accidentaly overheated the switch 1 and melted somehow. Can I just replace it with another one? it's a simple three position switch right?
Is that orange part with the transparent cable the thermocouple? If it is how is it connected? the orange part to the PID controller?
sorry silly questions..
And hopefully I found switch and replaced it. Then I realized why these red crimps are for. Give me your thumbs up.
Simple 3 position switch, it needs to handle at least 6 amps.
Orange part is the thermocouple. Orange part goes to the Pid controller (check the polarity!) and the probe goes in the hole on the side of the nozzle.
Thank's. I have some problems. the voltage output on the motor controller is going only until 11.7. I set the screws 15,7 but it didnt turn at all. I increeced both to the end to make it work and now it is extruding but very very slow. like 3 inches a minute. I have set the Amps 2.3-4. is not stable and it dosnt always respond to the screw's commands. what could be wrong? also the small coupling for the bit it doesn't fit to it. do I need to hammer it?
11.7 volts is normal, it is a 12 volt power supply.
2.3-4 amps is way too high. Please follow the instructions regarding the stall protection board. That high of a current draw indicates the unit was not assembled correctly (probably shaft collar in the wrong place), or you are running the material at too low of a temperature.
2.3-4 amps creates so much torque that the barrel may now be bent or the gearbox may be damaged.
Well. I think I damaged the gear box. what is the next step? it's the plastic gear. can I print it? but why there needs to be a plastic gear anyway...
Edit. both plastic gears are damaged obviously.
Is there any stl files of the plastic gears so I can machine them easier with my router?
so now I need to pay 60 on shipping for a couple of gears?
EDIT:
just ignore me. shipping cost is about 12$ for the gears. do I need to get a barrel as well?
It would not be possible to print those gears, the teeth are too small.
If the excessive current/torque has bent the barrel then you would need a new one, yes. It is important that the stall protection board instructions are followed properly. The stall protection board protects the rest of the unit from damage.
So. When the new gears arrive I will follow that the left bolt at the top should be at maximum soft click to enter full voltage and the right bolt should be rotated 7 or so to set the amps to 1.4-1.6. I read that but I dont know why I turned them. Its ok I learned something anyway... Can I replace the power supply with a better one to get 12 instead of 11.7? Thanks
I screwed up. My next mistake beyond that was the thermistor. I didnt put it in the right place. 
The auger looks that it dosnt move. I heat up the system and I used a wrench but still doesn't move. The barrel looks is not damaged. I was running the horizontal hopper and some thick pieces of melted plastics showed up. I took out the bigger pieces while wondering where these pieces came from. one piece of them stuck to the auger where the motor broke the gears. What should I do?
Where was the thermocouple installed, and what is the highest temperature the PID controller displayed?
Where did the thick pieces of melt plastics show up? In the opening of the barrel where the hopper is?
The thermocouple was installed between the heating element and the clamp... I have set it to 180 but after to 220 with the think it will smooth the flow..
The thick pieces show up up to the hopper. at the very top where I can see them with my eyes. 
how bad is this? how can I unblock the pipe?
220C at the heater is only about 180-190C at the nozzle, this isn't too bad unless the thermocouple was damaged by being clamped by the heater.
I don't know how the part of the barrel where the hopper is would get hot enough to melt plastic, especially if the heater didn't exceed 220C and you were using ABS. I'm afraid I don't have any advice for this specific situation.
The general advice for cleaning the inside of the barrel / cleaning clogs in the barrel is to heat the barrel until the auger can be pulled out.
I put it 220 after a while. before it was running 180 but the thermostat was closing early so there is no change to heat the nozzle properly. I will clean the auger and do my best when the gears arrive and post results. Thank you so much.
No problem. I also refunded the cost of the replacement gears as a courtesy.
You are so kind El. It was my own fault but many thanks. You made my day. I will definitely get back for more shopping when my economy gets better.
I wonder if the motor is spinning in the correct direction?
Lamp, double check the direction of the motor. If you reversed the polarity after running pellets through the machine, then yes its going pull melted plastic from the nozzle instead of push the pellets to the nozzle.
Thank's for the interesting Smow. The motor was running at the correct direction. I produced some filament as well. I reversed the polarity while I was trying to unblock the pipe but the gears was already destroyed. I believe that it couldnt push filament because the heating element was a bit back at the coupling and the thermistor was mounted at the element as well. at the nose the temperature was more or less 140-150 which I believe the nozzle was cold enough to block the nozzle and send the pellets back. like recycling. I am not sure if this can happen. All I remember is that the polarity respect was correct. anyway. mistakes are for humans and i did a lot but I dont regret because I learned a couple of things about the correct operation. I will come back to you when the gears arrive! I still can't believe the filastruder team decided to refund the price of the gears. this is an outstanding support/service which I believe I dont deserve. Thank you all.
Hi. My stall protection board can't reach 12.2 volts output only 1-2v. any ideas? I heated up the barrel and turned like half turn and then never turned again. It was drawing 1.6 amps. I tried a little more but it didnt move. The motor dosn't turn it self without any load. Is the stall protection board fried?
No, that is normal. Voltage is reduced if the current limit is being reached. The only way to limit current is to reduce voltage, so that's what the stall protection board does when the gear motor asks for more than 1.6 amps. An unloaded gear motor should only draw about 0.3 amps.
If the motor doesn't turn by itself without any load, something is likely jamming the gears in the gearbox.
So, I need to wait for more spares. This filastruder will work soooo much later than it should.
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