Custom Enclosure Mod (Page 1 of 3)

Very nice. That contoured top gives it a nice clean finished look. Good job! Especially like the material cost.

Thanks,  Just watch your drill points to make sure you're not going to hit anything on the way through.  I also had a stack of magnets under the drill to catch the shavings so I didn't get them on any wires or motors.  Worked very well.

That's utter genius! Just last night I got a metal shaving splinter in my hand while doing hw. I'm gonna have to try this out the next time I'm too lazy to leave my room to drill something.

That's really neat. I think I would consider that an upgrade from the standard case.

Are the plexiglass sides 11x11 also? I just ordered my SD and want to go ahead and cut these out.

Man after my own heart.  I liked using weatherstripping for my case and I can't tell I've been printing.... until I open the case to get the print.

Just picked up my acrylic sheets, at $8 each for 11.5" x 11.5" and the top I am looking for a local supplier for that tray.

Any way to attach everything with magnets? I really don't wish to drill holes into the printer frame in order to add hinges.

You could drill a hole into the corners of each acrylic side panel, then slide in your magnet into the freshly drilled hole. After that you could just snap it onto the frame, and still be able to easily remove it when needed.

Okay, here's what I did for my enclosure, thank you cmetzel.
This is the full view. I used 1/2" thick acrylic sheets, the hinges listed, the party tray listed (but found it, with shipping on Amazon for $7 as opposed to the party store, shipped costing $13) and the tubing listed.

This is a photo of the dollar store brand foam door/window insulation (1/2") that I used to get a better fit around the frame. I wouldn't recommend this, instead I will be changing to black (soft) foam that can compress. Maybe use a 5/8" thick strip to make a better seal. The dense foam doesn't fill the gap all the way around due to the frame it is on, though it was easy to custom cut it to fit around obstacles. Also, you can see the liquid electrical tape I painted on my bolts as a thread locker.

This image shows the magnet used on one of the doors, held on by Loctite brand "Power Grab". Sets in 15 minutes, dries completely in 24 hours. I had time, so I used it as opposed to super glue or something.

This is an up close of the party tray, mainly to show the duct tape (2 layers) protecting the wire sleeve from rubbing the frame and fraying. The machine shop that fabs these frames could learn a thing or two about deburring their edges. many of my lines are sharp.

@iowajames - instead of duct tape, have you seen this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:51134 ?

Apparently I'm using an older version of this thing that I can't seem to find on thingiverse anymore, but the bugga works great for me. Might look nicer than duct tape.

My wire bundle doesn't hit the belt, but instead rubs the rough edge of the frame, I could have grabbed a rotary tool & smoothed it down, but I'm sick and the blue duct tape doesn't look that bad. I may still print out yours cmetzel, as it will be added assurance against future belt rubs anyway.