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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Custom Enclosure Mod
It could be that the higher bed temp is maintaining a larger difference in temp between the base and the rest of the print. I think Slic3r has an option to reduce the bed temp after some number of layers. It might be worth trying that, using a high temp for initial adhesion and then reducing it to even out the overall temperature of the print.
I went looking for a 13" plastic tray similar to the 11" one in the first post, but while I didn't find one, a 12" one I found on Amazon for $3.60 seems to fit. If the forum ever thinks I'm okay to post links, I'll show you a picture and offer a link to the item on Amazon.
You need 5 posts first. Just to keep the spammers out. Please post the amazon link as well so others can copy going forward.
Nope, it seems it's ten posts.
This is a 12" tray available on Amazon for $3.60 that seems to fit pretty well, though I haven't tested or mounted it yet:
Has anyone though about the case from a soundwise perspective? I'd like it to isolate as much as possible. How is then acrylic working regarding noise?
I have mine running about 15 feet from where the family sits and watches TV and I've had no complaints. I don't think it's a very noisy process to begin with.
How are you running the filament into the enclosure for an SD3? From the SD2 pix it looks like the filament is coming in where the hotend wiring comes in in my model. Is there another mod for moving those wires or do I need to cut a window on the party tray?
I drilled a 1/2" hole in the middle of the party tray and ran my filament though that. I have had one jam caused by filament tangling next to that hole. I need to either design my own, or print one of the already available, filament guide.
I am going to do this when I get my S2 Pro. I have that tray and just threw some weather stripping on the edges. I will use gravity to hold it on to the top, unless I need to attach it. I will try and just for the side panels glue some magnets on the acrylic with some weather stripping in the gap it creates. Maybe put a knob on the front panel.
So far not lucky in a simple cut of acrylic. The cheap HomeDepot plastic cutter didn’t quite work and sliced my finger open when the acrylic shattered into many pieces. Well at first you don't succeed...
I am going to do this when I get my S2 Pro. I have that tray and just threw some weather stripping on the edges. I will use gravity to hold it on to the top, unless I need to attach it. I will try and just for the side panels glue some magnets on the acrylic with some weather stripping in the gap it creates. Maybe put a knob on the front panel.
So far not lucky in a simple cut of acrylic. The cheap HomeDepot plastic cutter didn’t quite work and sliced my finger open when the acrylic shattered into many pieces. Well at first you don't succeed...
Assuming you're buying new plastic sheets anyway, try Lowes (if you have one near you). Home depot wouldn't cut the plastic for me but Lowes cut it right there in the store and didn't charge me for anything except just the plastic sheet.
Made a handle that fits 2 magnets and secures using the left over screws from the Lowes hinges. Not super strong because it goes on the outside of the acrylic, but will keep the door closed or close it if near.
Edit: It had a long day of printing so please don't mind the mess 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:92771
I see you store your "used" plastic in the bottom of your printer too.
It's ubiquitous... we all just scrap the used stuff to the most convenient location. I clean mine up about once a week. Some of the finer stuff goes into a small container to use for abs glue... smaller pieces mean faster dissolving. I rarely use pieces that are the same size as the filament that goes into the machine. Just seems to take longer to dissolve.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Custom Enclosure Mod
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