Custom Enclosure Mod (Page 2 of 3)

you might want to acetone, sand down or reprint this guy after you do the z-wobble.  my guide had rough edges like this and it actually helped wear down my wire guide.

Has anybody found a top tray similar to this one that will work with an SD3?  Also, can someone direct me to the frame dimensions on an SD3 so that I can have the sides cut prior to mine shipping?

That same company in my link also sells and 12" and 14" clear plastic tray.  You'll have to measure to see which will work.  Also if someone has the 11" and is in front of their printer it might be helpful to measure the actual so the SD3 people could make a decision.  I didn't think mine was actually 11" when I got it but I could be wrong.

http://www.theultimatepartystore.com/pr … y-p-122492
http://www.theultimatepartystore.com/pr … y-p-122495

I went to a local Party City store and picked up a 12" as it was the only size they had.  $3.99 for it and it's about 1/2" too big for the SD2.  For that money, I'll try to cut and sand it down on 2 sides to make it fit.

Yeah, I was looking at that.  Given the case footprint, it looks like you would need two 14" x 14" sheets and one 14" x 13.5" sheet to make the 3 sides of the enclosure.  Then get the appropriate sized party tray for the top.  I'm interested to know the width of the steel supports so that I can make the sheets slightly smaller to account for hinges on the front and make sure they don't interfere with each other at the sides and top of the enclosure.  I'm guessing I could get by with 13.5" x 13.5" and 13.5" x 13.25", but I'd like to know for sure before I get the sheets cut.

I don't think cad exists or at least I haven't seen it.

I have posted plans for a SD3 case that doesn't require any cutting or drilling.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1588/my- … enclosure/

The left and right sides are 13 15/16" wide and the front is 13 3/8" wide while being 13 3/4" high.

I'd tell you to hold off on getting anything made.  At first I thought I wanted bolted on doors and only had these pieces cut until I got hinges.  Now there is no way I'd want bolted on doors.  If you are trying to fix something having as much room as possible is very handy.  Also be aware on the right hand side of the SD3 a few bolts go slightly beyond the side of the case.  It was scratching my acrylic.  That is when I decided to add the insulation tape.  Also be aware the SD3 doesn't have the filament go through the back of the case like the SD2 so you need to have a different setup than the one on this link to handle this.

I used the bolted on hinges on my SD3 and kept the hinges on the sides towards the back of the unit and aligned them with the opening's in the case

I also used 1/4" spacers to keep the hinges offset from the case and it also accommodates for the 1/4 rubber stripping I used around the doors to seal it.

Only thing I had to modify was cut out a little of the stripping to accommodate for the rod protrusion on the from door so it closes nice and tight.

I still have to get the right size bolts or cut down the ones I used as it was all I had to test fit everything.

Are the SD3 hinges the same as the SD2 hinges for the hole patterns?

Duh.  I had a moment there.  I was thinking of the SD2 door that already has hinges and the design I was working on.  On further inspection, then SD3 has no existing doors so anything is up for grabs.

I wonder if the heat is very uneven.  You could try taking some readings with an IR thermometer.  Put some masking tape or something over the glass first.  Heating the bed with some kind of insulation on top might help it spread better, but that's a long shot.  You could also try painting on an acetone/abs mixture, with only a few small pieces of plastic dissolved in it.