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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Jigsaw Replacement mk4
100% infill is not needed. I print mine with just 20% honeycomb infill and have had no issues with strength or warping...I also made a slight change to the cutout on the back so it is easier to make flush with the motor. Send me a pvt msg and I will ship you one.
100% infill is not needed. I print mine with just 20% honeycomb infill and have had no issues with strength or warping...I also made a slight change to the cutout on the back so it is easier to make flush with the motor. Send me a pvt msg and I will ship you one.
Appreciate the offer, though I've talked to Tim and he's going to be sending me one. Once I get it I will probably print out one of your modified design.
Thanks!
Does anyone ever have trouble printing the tensioner arm? The part where the bearing bolt goes through always seems really weak, super easy to snap by hand. Maybe it could be designed thicker?
There is a limitation on thickness to avoid it touching the pronounced part of the stepper motor.
There is a limitation on thickness to avoid it touching the pronounced part of the stepper motor.
You could move the whole body out, moving the PEEK and therfore the idler out, too. You'd just need to move the toothed wheel on the shaft - loosening and tightening the set screw on the motor shaft.
Though, if others aren't having a problem with it, maybe it's my Solidoodle. I do have some z-banding going on.
It took me four tries to even get the tensioner arm to print somewhat nicely. I'm still not very pleased with how it came out. I'm sure if I had a fan it would have printed nicer. I had to print it at very slow speeds.
As long as I don't have a second hot end for ABS I had to print it in PLA. Could that cause problems when using the extruder?
I still use my MK2 ARM. Make sure you update to the latest RH .84 -- they fixed a bug with settings not being stored correctly...(I was having some major issues with this myself before this fix...I never knew what my speed settings actually were at the time...e.g. I could set 50mm/s infill and it would lock that in even though I put it to 300mm/s or another input).
I also add other objects of equal height when I need to print small delicate things...it keeps the plastic moving and can yield you another object you need with a small addition in time to print.
It took me four tries to even get the tensioner arm to print somewhat nicely. I'm still not very pleased with how it came out. I'm sure if I had a fan it would have printed nicer. I had to print it at very slow speeds.
As long as I don't have a second hot end for ABS I had to print it in PLA. Could that cause problems when using the extruder?
I too thought that second arm hinge looked a bit skinny, but I never noticed any torquing of the arm. The amount of material on the first arm seems to be enough to hold the part stiff. I was even using the one that had "more bite" which I think applied even more force than the standard and I never had a problem.
Hi,
I own the solidoodle2 and now ordered a replacement extruder (from solidoodle) for quick switching.
Is the J-head model an mk4 for SD2 or is this thread / STL for the extruder that comes with SD3?
Hi,
I own the solidoodle2 and now ordered a replacement extruder (from solidoodle) for quick switching.
Is the J-head model an mk4 for SD2 or is this thread / STL for the extruder that comes with SD3?
SD2 and SD3 have the same extruder so it should work just find on either one.
Has anyone created a compatible 40mm fan nozzle for the mk3/4 yet?
Would anyone be willing to print out one of these (unpolished- I can clean it up and drill myself) and USPS (cheap ship) it to me? I can pay for the cost, I'm not sure what a reasonable cost is but $16 or 12+I-Pay-Shipping would be a great price point for me. Let me know if you want more. I could also send a PDF of a prepaid USPS label if you give me your address and package dimensions, so that would cut out some of the pain-in-the-ass-factor.
I've been having problems this weekend for a few reasons, and I can't get anything to print well. The stripping problems and tweaking I need to solve on my own, but it would at least be helpful for me to not be using the acrylic jigsaw, which is harder to clean and quite annoying.
(I had to switch back to acrylic jigsaw after I damaged my MK3 mount. My solidoodle was doing great for 3 months, but has been on the edge recently; classes + work have been taking too much of my time that I'd like to devote to solving the printing problems.)
Hey lawsy, let me know if this is not an OK place to mention this, I'll move to the marketplace. It just seemed convenient/ appropriate.
I'm happy to do it! I just did a couple sets for op7ical.
Ok! Awesome!! I'll pm you.
Back on topic for the rest of the thread 
.
No problem with me, this is a community forum after all.
Several users have asked me for sets of Lawsy's design. I now keep a couple sets on hand ready to ship out - I only ask a few bucks to cover shipping. Just PM me.
I started hell 
. Well, once I get printing up consistently again, anyone can feel free to PM me as well.
Just interested in what "MK" stands for.
Make?
Mark 4. And Jigsaw is short for "Acrylic Jigsaw Puzzle" which is what you get when you take apart the original extruder.
I'm going to glue my stupid, broken, solidoodle acrylic parts back together so I can print this thing and then I am going to smash the stupid broken acrylic into little ity bity pieces with a hammer!
SD Went with a TOTALLY HORRIBLE ACRYLIC DESIGN. One reason was for looks, the other reason is that they don't have someone with common sense, nor anyone with a mechanical engineering degree, working for them. One should never have holes in acrylic so close to outer edges, that is not asking for trouble, it is BEGGING for trouble....
ing too, because I specifically bought the SD2 because of its rugged steel frame, so that it would look down the extruder consistently.
Oh well...
I don't mind that Solidoodle's original design was flawed: we've all made mistakes. But to be selling the same horrible design six months later indicates a real disrespect for their customers. I just discarded one of these last night. What a nightmare.
Acrylic is way faster to produce...otherwise I am sure they would have went with a custom printed part.
Acrylic is way faster to produce...otherwise I am sure they would have went with a custom printed part.
Is it though, when you count assembly time? Machines work for free, humans don't.
Acrylic is way faster to produce...otherwise I am sure they would have went with a custom printed part.
The printed parts are cheaper. We've been mum about it, but there have been Jigsaw alternatives in the works. You might be able to catch one in some of the recent press photos.
It's more of a case of "one problem at a time" than stubbornness about it on out part. Believe me, we don't like having to replace the darn things when they shatter in shipping.
jefferysanders wrote:Acrylic is way faster to produce...otherwise I am sure they would have went with a custom printed part.
The printed parts are cheaper. We've been mum about it, but there have been Jigsaw alternatives in the works. You might be able to catch one in some of the recent press photos.
It's more of a case of "one problem at a time" than stubbornness about it on out part. Believe me, we don't like having to replace the darn things when they shatter in shipping.
Understandable. Replacing changes one part into the wild at a time makes the most sense. Start with the most critical component and monitor the fallout. After a period of time, release the next upgrade. Sending out five changes at a time makes troubleshooting much more complex. Since I purchased my "dinosaur" (one of the first SD2's) you've upgraded many components to improve the printer. I see you moving forward at a reasonable pace. I look forward to purchasing one of the new beds but not looking forward to changing it out 
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