76

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

If you loosen/undo the tentioner arm you can feed the end of your filament right into the hotend then in the drive mechanism and feeder guide.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

77

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

It looks like you need to adjust your filament drive gear. If you push it too far back your filament will not line up with the hole in the peek. Feed your filament just to the top of the peek hole then losen the drive gear and move it forward and back until it lines up with the hole.

SD2
E3D V6
MK5 V6

78

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Would that be the gear to the left? Would I bring it out more with the lil hex screw on it?

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

79

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Yes. 1.5mm wrench. Just loosen the stud and slide it out or in depending on where the filament lines up. I would adjust the filament extrusion to 5 mm or less to move filament slow.

SD2
E3D V6
MK5 V6

80

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I think that helped. Thanks!

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

81

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Lawsy, once again thanks for your mk4 efforts.  I want to (respectfully) offer a suggestion for a future improvement.

Today, I was printing within an acrylic enclosure in an unusually warm garage, and the extra heat was just enough to allow the tension arm to fail.  Specifically, the bottom pivot point softened up enough for the pivot screw to tear through both holes.  Luckily, I still had my acrylic tension arm around to allow me to print another mk4 tension arm, but if there is a way to beef up this pivot point, I think it would be worthwhile.

82

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

tealvince wrote:

Lawsy, once again thanks for your mk4 efforts.  I want to (respectfully) offer a suggestion for a future improvement.

Today, I was printing within an acrylic enclosure in an unusually warm garage, and the extra heat was just enough to allow the tension arm to fail.  Specifically, the bottom pivot point softened up enough for the pivot screw to tear through both holes.  Luckily, I still had my acrylic tension arm around to allow me to print another mk4 tension arm, but if there is a way to beef up this pivot point, I think it would be worthwhile.

+1 to that.  I use my acrylic one too, because the MK4 arm looks weak.  I also have a spare MK4.

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

83

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

driggers wrote:
tealvince wrote:

Lawsy, once again thanks for your mk4 efforts.  I want to (respectfully) offer a suggestion for a future improvement.

Today, I was printing within an acrylic enclosure in an unusually warm garage, and the extra heat was just enough to allow the tension arm to fail.  Specifically, the bottom pivot point softened up enough for the pivot screw to tear through both holes.  Luckily, I still had my acrylic tension arm around to allow me to print another mk4 tension arm, but if there is a way to beef up this pivot point, I think it would be worthwhile.

+1 to that.  I use my acrylic one too, because the MK4 arm looks weak.  I also have a spare MK4.

I beefed mine up slightly. It was enough to make my printer like it and it feels solid now. See if it works for you.

Post's attachments

tensioner_arm_big.stl 244.99 kb, 52 downloads since 2013-06-02 

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SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

84

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I'm now printing with the MkIV amd J-Head. The design is great and I love the fast switching of hotends. But I noticed an annoying behavior: when the filament requires more force to be pushed down, because maybe there is some warping and the nozzle hits the part, the ABS bends between the drive gear and the entry of the hotend, and then the filament has to be removed manually and replaced. Has anybody experienced the same problem? And does anybody have a solution? Maybe a small guide that drives the filament into the hotend and keeps it straight?

85 (edited by LdyMox 2013-06-03 12:14:09)

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

It happens to me all the time, plus sometimes when that happens the hotend gets pushed out of it slot. Still better then the original acrylic design. I may try the MK3 to avoid the hotend from slipping out during a print.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

86

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

LdyMox wrote:

It happens to me all the time, plus sometimes when that happens the hotend gets pushed out of it slot. Still better then the original acrylic design. I may try the MK3 to avoid the hotend from slipping out during a print.

wrap some tape around the top of the extruder to make the groove thicker... it makes getting it in/out firmer, but also stops it moving of its own accord.

I use kapton, but masking tape would work just as well...

87

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Thanks. I will give that a try.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

88

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

2n2r5 wrote:

I beefed mine up slightly. It was enough to make my printer like it and it feels solid now. See if it works for you.

Thanks 2n2r5, I will print a couple for backups.

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

89

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Is there somewhere that sells these parts? Mine come out ok, except for two of the parts in which one of the holes has a very thin edge. As in, I can see through the layers. It doesn't look like it would work very well for long periods of time.

SD2 w/ Heated bed. Mods: E3D MK5, Lawsy MKV, Glass Bed, printed filament stand

90

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Proteus wrote:

Is there somewhere that sells these parts? Mine come out ok, except for two of the parts in which one of the holes has a very thin edge. As in, I can see through the layers. It doesn't look like it would work very well for long periods of time.

Are you having trouble printing mine? I could send you a couple if you want. All I ask is enough to buy a beer.  smile

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

91

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

2n2r5 wrote:
Proteus wrote:

Is there somewhere that sells these parts? Mine come out ok, except for two of the parts in which one of the holes has a very thin edge. As in, I can see through the layers. It doesn't look like it would work very well for long periods of time.

Are you having trouble printing mine? I could send you a couple if you want. All I ask is enough to buy a beer.  smile

No, the original. I will print yours right now!

SD2 w/ Heated bed. Mods: E3D MK5, Lawsy MKV, Glass Bed, printed filament stand

92 (edited by adrian 2013-06-11 10:58:48)

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I originally said in here btw 605zz; I was mistaken. For reference its actually a 625Z

93

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

adrian wrote:

I originally said in here btw 605zz; I was mistaken. For reference its actually a 625Z


HOW DARE YOU BE MISTAKEN! That's not allowed! tongue Thanks man. I think I actually ended up getting some 625zz or 624zz.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

94

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

LdyMox wrote:

It happens to me all the time, plus sometimes when that happens the hotend gets pushed out of it slot. Still better then the original acrylic design. I may try the MK3 to avoid the hotend from slipping out during a print.

I have an idea.  In addition to beefing up the tension arm, how about adding some kind of "flap/guard" that is part of the arm but branches off to the left from the pivot point to hold the hotend in the groove?  When you open the tension arm, it would swing up and to the right out of the way.  Getting to apply the right pressure might be tricky and it might require a longer pivot screw, but I might try this if nobody beats me to it.

95

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I just can't get it to line up with the filiment. It will mostly work by feeding in the filament manually but with softer ones like PLA the bend causes it to fold and thus stop extruding and sometimes that pushes the hotend out. It just does not slide in far enough to make it even with the hotend. Mine seems like it needs to be a tad further back.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

96

Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

2n2r5 posted a MK5 fan mount for a fan to cool the place where the PEEK and barrel meet on a stock extruder, here.  But I still have the MK4 mounted and didn't want to switch to the MK5 just yet, so I whipped up my own version for the MK4.

Of course, I can't print it until I get my extruder unclogged and working, by which point, maybe I won't need it.  (The barrel and nozzle are soaking in acetone right now, and I also ordered a spare, so when I get back from my travels next week, I'll have either the replacement or a spare for the parts depot.)  So I can't be sure this'll fit perfectly or anything yet.

Post's attachments

MK4 fan mount.skp 1023.99 kb, 4 downloads since 2013-08-31 

MK4 fan mount.stl 40.12 kb, 20 downloads since 2013-08-31 

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