How to hook up Smart LCD XXL on a Rumba? (Page 1 of 2)

Wow - 3 days & nearly 30 views and not a single response?

did I? I honestly dont know.

I did ask a question - is it really that easy?

a simple "yeah, it is", or "no it isnt" would have been appreciated.

Are you sure about that, ward?? LOL my track record hasnt exactly been the greatest...

Seriously tho, I appreciate the encouragement, just a bit nervous about doing something wrong - again...

it can also get costly...

Thank you for posting - even if it is kinda discouraging. (btw - the link you posted didnt work for me)

not sure what is going on, but every time I try to see it, I get a 502 error - website is offline. (this is what I got when I tried posting last night, too. apparently it did post, but I got the 502 error, so gave up and shut down)

And yeah, I am using the firmware you linked me to on it, ward, so hopefully it will work.

I am still trying to iron out a few other issues right now - getting some really odd first layer issues that are about to drive me nuts. Not really sure what the problem is, but getting some weird wrinkling on first layer solid fill - the longer the run is, the more likely it is to wrinkle up - almost like it is over-extruding, but it shouldnt be...
steps/mm have been calibrated, and recalibrated multiple times, just to be sure. final setting for steps/mm is 103.3 - gives me exactly 100mm of feed.
Flow has been calibrated, and recalibrated so many times this past weekend I have a bucket full of single wall cubes...
extruder vref is as close as I can get it (still getting moire, but I dont dare turn it down anymore or it starts skipping steps)
Did a PID tune for the temp I am running at - temp runs relatively stable - for the stock hotend...
Bed is clean and level (verified level multiple times) Bed temp stays pretty stable, too...
At first I thought maybe it was the filament itself causing the problem, but it is happening with different rolls as well (tried 3 different colors) so I dont think it is specific to one roll of filament... (we do store our filament in an airtight box with silica gel in it for moisture absorption)

for smaller stuff (say 20mm x20mm), it lays down the first layer beautifully, no wrinkles... bigger items (40 x 80mm or larger) it will start out ok, but then as the path gets longer it will start wrinkling up and making a mess of things... so bad that I end up killing the print because there is no way the next layer is going to lay down right... Sometimes I can save the print if I manually turn down the feed & flow rates in RH on the first layer then slowly increase them again over the next couple of layers.

I dunno - but until I can get this first layer problem resolved it is kind of pointless to try installing the LCD...

just got fed tax refund in, maybe it is time for a couple more upgrades... thinking maybe an E3D is in order & possibly new heat bed...

Will try to get some pics up for you later today, ward.

Seems my problem with viewing the linked the thread (or any thread now) has something to do with Firefox on my old XP computer... I can see everything just fine using Chrome... but FF keeps causing errors.

if it ain't one thing, it is something else...

And everything seems to work ok on the "new to us" win 7 computer using FF... have been thinking about upgrading the main 'pukers to win 7 anyway - it is time...

anyway - back to 3D printing stuff...

ward - here are a couple of pics for you. orientation: right = front of printer - all three pieces started filling at top right corner (in pic)...
also included a closer view of the worst corner of the larger piece. tried very hard to save it through most of the first layer, but finally gave up.

yes, the stock aluminum bed is really warped bad... and yeah - i was using clips... but that has now changed.

I spent a couple of hours the other day building up the outer edges of the aluminum bed (low spots) with some copper foil tape I had (used for stained glass work) one layer at a time until I no longer had a wobble when it was placed faced down on the desk.

edit: oh yeah - also picked up and installed some new screws for leveling the bed. When we took it out to add something underneath to support the heat pad & insulation we found that all 3 screws were terribly bent! might be the reason I was constantly fighting with bed level?

Cut a new piece of mirror to rule out any potential issues with the old piece...

New mirror piece is now held to the aluminum bed with a couple of strips of the same copper tape in 2 opposite corners - it will tear fairly easily so there isn't a lot of force being used - just simply holding it in place.

Just finished reinstalling the whole works - time to warm it up and level... here goes nuttin... LOL
(also double checked all my screw terminals to make sure they are tight...)

It is disconnected (circuit open) if it is reading triggered.

What you mean is the switch was depressed?  On an SD endstop that means the circuit is open.  I know it sounds backwards because it is   when the switch is depressed this shows as triggered but that switch is N.C. (normally closed) and when it is depressed it becomes (open).  So if your switch was stuck in the depressed position it would show triggered because the circuit is open.  The same would be true if it were unplugged or a wire broke.

Bumping this to see if you ever got the display working on the RUMBA?  To the best of my knowledge, no one has ever actually got a display to work with solidoodle firmware and a RUMBA and I would love to be proved wrong?  Anyone?