Rumba upgrade (Page 1 of 2)

You're gonna love it!

Pro tip: Solidoodle is known for wiring the extruder motor backwards. Also, the fan bundle polarity may be reversed so be cautious on that. FAN1 is for your stepper/extruder/other coolers, FAN0 is for a GCode fan. You'll find the settings for the fans in Configuration_Adv.h. FAN1 is pin 8. You pretty much can't run the RUMBA without a fan long, you'll start skipping in no time. Those DRV8825s get hot really fast.

Your endstops need to be hooked up to the - and S pins. The positive pin is for optical endstops.

Don't forget to set the jumpers appropriately for 1/32 microstepping. Double up all of your steps per MM after this (e.g. x and y go from 88  to 176).

Yup. I see yours in the picture there also. Heat sinks mean nothing without airflow.

Also another note: don't power up those drivers without motors connected. They'll burn up.

There's no way to actually put the heat sinks on the chips, they appear to be underneath the removable socket. 
I'm glad you reminded me of that, i might have plugged up my screen just to see it glow!

Thanks for the things mdr!  Im not to sure how I want to mount everything yet.  I'm kind of limited since the LCD can't be more than 30 cm away

They go on like this
   

Hmm, so you're just putting them on the silver part in the middle then?  That's what I was planning on doing but it doesn't seem like a very good design...

It's foil tape?  I wasn't paying attention to the tape, at quick glance it looked like regular double sided foam tape.

I'm about to get off work and take a good look at everything.  I appreciate the tips!

I went ahead and put all but the Z axis on 1/32 just to see how it will perform.  Currently it either doesn't have enough torque, the endstops are halting things, and the LCD is a tad clunky to use right now.  I'm looking for a much longer USB cable so I can upload another change to the firmware, update the EEPROM, and double check axis movement and homing with RH.  The cable I first used is barely 1 foot long so now it won't reach for me to update again.

It always pays off having the correct tools for the job... I would have been printing already had I planned better...  Either way I'm satisfied so far ha, I love this stuff.

Do you guys have the software stop enabled in firmware? I don't think that's the problem, the only axis that homes is z. The x and y don't respond to a home command.

The endstops are behaving like they should, i checked that with m119.  It will register if i manually move the x or y into the stop, i even see it on the LCD and repetier, but i can still go past the stop.

I can see the home commands in repetier log.  The lcd home only does z as well.

Any ideas off hand? I ran out of time last night to dig more into that problem

So the issue is that Solidoodle uses normally-closed (NC) switches in their printers. That is, when there is a complete circuit between - and S, the switch is NOT activated. When there is no signal on - and S, the switch is activated. Type M119 while activating various switches to see what I mean.

The reason nothing is responding to your home switches is because the RUMBA has pins for X-, Y-, and Z+. By default, Solidoodle has RH set up to only utilize X+, Y+, and Z-. So, since the switches are normally-closed, your RUMBA thinks it is at the minimum for X and Y, and at the maximum for Z (thus why Z will home). So you have a couple options to resolve this. You can either resolve it in the firmware, or you can use the hardware solution. I am not 100% certain, but I believe this can be fixed in the firmware by setting the X_MIN, Y_MIN and Z_MAX pins to -1 in pins.h (wardjr may be able to verify this). The easier solution that I know will work is to jump the - and S pins of X-, Y-, and Z+ with a female jumper. You can take the jumpers off the drivers you are not using; this is what I did.

You also have some freedom about how you set it up. I was lazy and kept the default configuration, but it might make more sense to set up RH to have 0,0 be the back right corner, and then set up your endstops appropriately. It's up to you, though.

If you want to be really fancy, get some optical endstops and find a way to install them

I was eager to answer this because I believe this is a rite of passage to owning a RUMBA. If your printer doesn't start bumping into stuff, you haven't suffered enough for it . I was waiting patiently for you to encounter this problem.

I see you also have sphagetti/hairball wiring. I still have not cleaned mine up. I'm waiting to get some plexiglass cut to move to a vertical feed so I have space to mount it on the back of my SD4.

One final note: Just set everything to 1/32 stepping now. There's no point in not utilizing it. Double up all your steps per mm. You don't want to try to do this after it's all set up and your wiring is a mess, trust me.

And while i'm dumping info, if you are unable to use the Firmware/EEPROM configuration setting in RH, you forgot to set SOLIDOODLE_VERSION to 3.

I didn't even see there was a constant DISABLE_MIN/MAX_ENDSTOPS. Well aren't I dope! No excuse, I have a BS in Computer Science

Glad you got it working. I assume you're using an E3D with that nozzle fan--are you mounting it on the lawsy carriage? What mount are you using, if you don't mind sharing? I'm planning to design something to mount underneath the center X carriage, but it may already exist. My wiring is simply too fragile to try to plug in anything else right now.

I'm using lawsys mk5 extruder, well half of it now, just the bottom section that holds the e3d.

N2ri,  it's not difficult at all, just cutting and slicing and matching all the connections back up.  Flashing the firmware is so much easier than the printrboard, just have it plugged in and hit upload in arduino.

I actually flashed it first, i believe it comes with some small code to move the axis' around a few millimeters at start up. I'm not positive on that, i just read it somewhere.  I had my own firmware on it before i plugged anything in.

I'm going to print my own design for a cover and get some wire to redo all the nasty. That is one thing to note, if you get an LCD and put it on the front you will have to splice almost all the existing wire to reach the board.

I'll try and get a couple test prints much later tonight.

Well, I'm attempting a test print of a single wall cube to check calibration.  I sliced it, fired up the print, it homes like normal, then it tries going backwards.  It just grinds against the end stops.  I'm investigating the cause now, but it should not be doing that.  My controls in RH are still the same.  The only thing I see odd so far is the LCD shows my home at 0,0,0 so I'm guessing the Rumba sees that as home, not 205,200,0.