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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → ATLAS 3D & FreeLSS → Printing Atlas 3D
Here is my printed and assembled scanner so far. I think it came out quite good. Looking forward to receive the reward from kickstarter and put this puppy to work. The scanner was printed on an ultimaker 2 using PETG filament. PETG feels very similar to ABS but it is much easier to print with.
nice
very good, where did you buy the PETG ? and what it the temperature you was using ? I guess resolution is about 0.2mm ?
Did you have any "fit" issues? Looks really good, thanks for sharing.
what hazards are involved using PETG compared to ABS? fumes etc
@KennyB: I had only one issue and that was coupling the camera tower to the scanner body but Uriah has fixed the tower stl a while ago so it should be a non issue. Otherwise all pieces fitted remarkably well.
@n2ri: From what I read, ABS has by far the most noxious fumes, PLA is better than ABS and PETG (same plastic as most food containers) should be better than PLA, however I am not sure about the science behind those statement I read, so it is aneddotical at best. I, most definitely, would not stick my nose on the printer and breath any of these products fumes and if possible ventilate the room the printer is in.
@bastien: The brand of PETG is eSun, in the US I bought from an online company named intservo 3D for ~ $34 for 1Kg spool. Printed at 210C, 80C for the heated bed, 0.2 mm layers, 50cm/sec speed and 30cm/sec for the first layer. Fans were on at 50% after the first layer. I used a brim on the larger pieces which when removed on this particular material did not leave any visible scar.
I tried initially to print the scanner using ABS but I had very bad warping and adhesion problems. I admit I am totally inexperienced on using ABS as I always used PLA. Printing this scanner was my first ABS attempt. I found PETG as easy to print as PLA but the feel of the printed part is similar to ABS. Now I have a full spool of ABS that I would like to put to a good use, so I am getting a new glass bed to use just with ABS and give ABS slurry a try.
If you would like to try PET from this particular brand keep in mind the available filament colors are close to semi-transparent, maybe the right word is translucid, not quite see through but almost. You may or may not like this kind of finish.
The glass bed is great for smoothness, But I put kapton tape and school glue. Zero lifting or warping.
In regards to printing the more difficult scanner parts wardjr
The glass bed is great for smoothness, But I put kapton tape and school glue. Zero lifting or warping.
Glass and tape (kapton or blue)/glue are not mutually exclusive - Occasionally, I use these on my glass bed. Glue and hair spray are new additions since the CraftBot won't heat the bed to 110c.
In regards to printing the more difficult scanner parts wardjr
I tried to print the Atlas 3D in ABS with the bed at 110C and glue stick and had very bad warping and poor adhesion. I have to try the Kapton tape, the ABS slurry, the hairspray and any combination thereof. I have no experience on ABS so I was not sure if the problem I had were related to the quality of the ABS i purchased or just ABS being a pain to print with.
In regards to printing the more difficult scanner parts wardjr
could we please stick to topic! all this printer junk can go to a different thread. keep this only about the scanner. too many new members hi-jacking topics from OP lately. thats why I deleted one of my own Topics recently. the last several posts here are irrelevant to the OP.
either members that posted or Moderators please remove the off topic posts. I had over 50 on my topic. need parental supervision seems lately
Warning given and received they are on topic and discussing the particular challenges printing some of the more difficult scanner parts. I added a note to each so as to avoid confusion.
could we please stick to topic! all this printer junk can go to a different thread. keep this only about the scanner. too many new members hi-jacking topics from OP lately. thats why I deleted one of my own Topics recently. the last several posts here are irrelevant to the OP.
either members that posted or Moderators please remove the off topic posts. I had over 50 on my topic. need parental supervision seems lately
I suggest a little bit more tolerance. This thread is about printing the Atlas 3D. I tried different materials and I had some challenges, particularly with ABS. If somebody has suggestions on how to suceed printing the scanner with ABS or other material I would only welcome their post, their settings and the tricks they used to print challenging parts. I believe this could be helpful for anybody trying to print the scanner and this was the goal of my post
Completely understand and would only ask that you make that clear in your posts. Otherwise it simply seems like an unrelated post. Even a simple statement at the end "in regards to Atlas parts"
Feel free to edit your previous post I'll remove my addition.
When printing ABS parts for the Atlas, I only had lifting problems with the Camera Tower. I print on a glass plate with either Kapton tape or the green PET tape, both with an ABS wash. If you are having issues printing in ABS, it might the manufacturer. I've tried filament from Ebay and Amazon sellers and have hit or miss (mostly miss) experiences. Problem sticking to the bed, delamination, inconsistent diameter, stringing.
All the other parts print pretty well. I've had to file the frame connectors a little because they were too tight. But other than that, the fit has been excellent.
Completely understand and would only ask that you make that clear in your posts. Otherwise it simply seems like an unrelated post. Even a simple statement at the end "in regards to Atlas parts"
Feel free to edit your previous post I'll remove my addition.
Should I sign this with my name and say it is from me (despite the fact that it is also obviously the case by my posting as well as the thread subject?)
in regards to Atlas parts
By fmotta
wardjr wrote:Completely understand and would only ask that you make that clear in your posts. Otherwise it simply seems like an unrelated post. Even a simple statement at the end "in regards to Atlas parts"
Feel free to edit your previous post I'll remove my addition.Should I sign this with my name and say it is from me (despite the fact that it is also obviously the case by my posting as well as the thread subject?)
in regards to Atlas parts
By fmotta
It wasn't as obvious as you might think given the simple fact that users reported the post.
I am only trying to do my job so feel free to drop the attitude.
Wardjr is doing exactly what any moderator is supposed to do...keep conversations civil and on track. So thank you wardjr for helping prevent a hijack 
But on topic, I'm halfway through printing the parts and I had the same experience as Bight Pueo on the camera tower part. Even with a 6mm brim it lifted by about a millimeter. Everything else (so far) had been without any support or brim.
You may want to use a fan to print the camera shaft 
I tried the camera tower and the large frame connector in ABS, without kapton tape or ABS slurry and even with a 1cm brim it lifted and warped. Temp was 230C and bed was at 110C. I ended up printing what I showed on the initial post using PET and it came out allright without any major issues.
@wardjr: Thank you for moderating.
@everybody else: Lets chill and be civil. We are here to help each other. even if the thread goes slightly out of track it is ok as far as it is useful info. Will bring it back on track as needed. Take it easy and do not inconvenience the moderators.
Peace
cguagreschi- What screws did you use? M3, I know, but did you use standard socket caps or socket flat head?
Looks great by the way.
cguagreschi- What screws did you use? M3, I know, but did you use standard socket caps or socket flat head?
Looks great by the way.
I used stainless steel button head hex screws (M3 x 10 mm). Bought from http://www.mcmaster.com/
product id 94500A223. $6 for 100 but shipping from them is expensive unless you order a lot of stuff.
If you have amazon prime this (http://www.amazon.com/Socket-Finish-Int … head+screw) may me a better deal
So far the copies of the printed pieces look good. I haven't started mine yet, but I not going to receive my scanner till the June group I think. The question I have is, has there been any recommendation on best color to use for printing? Or maybe colors to stay away from? I know in other scanners I have seen, there have been considerations on color of the base and support to help it remain "invisible" to the scanner. Is that something to worry about here? or will we need to simply remove the base structure from the scan in something like Meshlab?
I have seen the black copies and the dark blue ones, I would just hate to start printing all of the parts in a color that might somehow affect the scan quality.
Thanks, for the info,
FallGuy
I know in other scanners I have seen, there have been considerations on color of the base and support to help it remain "invisible" to the scanner. Is that something to worry about here? or will we need to simply remove the base structure from the scan in something like Meshlab?
I have seen the black copies and the dark blue ones, I would just hate to start printing all of the parts in a color that might somehow affect the scan quality.
Thanks, for the info,
FallGuy
I don't think this will be too much of an issue. One of the items that will come with the kit is a coating that will be applied to the turntable to help make it invisible to the laser. I forgot where I read that, but you can see a small bottle and a foam brush in the photos of the parts on the Kickstarter page
I know in other scanners I have seen, there have been considerations on color of the base and support to help it remain "invisible" to the scanner. Is that something to worry about here? or will we need to simply remove the base structure from the scan in something like Meshlab?
I believe that the FreeLSS software knows to ignore points that are below the level of the turntable, since it knows the geometry of the entire scanner. I don't yet have a plate on my scanner, and since I'm using the Ciclop turntable it has three bolts sticking out of the surface; they cause small artifacts on some scans but even that's not a problem.
So I've finished printing and have it fully assembled (minus the KS kit), and have noticed the printed Pi case does not have an opening for the power cable.
On the internal wall, there is a notch in the shape for it, but it does not extend through to the external wall.
I'll try to open it with a Dremel tomorrow, but wanted other to know to avoid possible frustration until the model is corrected.
So I've finished printing and have it fully assembled (minus the KS kit), and have noticed the printed Pi case does not have an opening for the power cable.
On the internal wall, there is a notch in the shape for it, but it does not extend through to the external wall.
I'll try to open it with a Dremel tomorrow, but wanted other to know to avoid possible frustration until the model is corrected.
The Pi is powered through the GPIO pins -- the cutout is only there for clearance. You definitely do not want to attach power to the normal power plug of the Raspberry Pi.
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