26

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

Thanks for the clarification!

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

27

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

What print settings is everyone using for ABS? layer height, infill %, perimeters, top/bot layers etc. I know everyones 3D printer temp settings will be a little different. I'm using the XYZ DaVinci 1.0 printer.

SD2 Expert stock, ABS fume fan,
XYZ DaVinci 1.0 stock ABS, Simplify3D
QUBD Two-Up PLA, new 3D printed X gantry, Y idler, flex z coupler, extruder mount, E3D Lite

28

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

About the Camera Case Front part. Is that horizontal bar that's under the two tabs that connect to the cable carrier parts support that's supposed to get removed, or is it part of the model?

29

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

It is support material that should be removed.

30

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

Has anyone else here printed it on a M3D Micro? I know several with that printer have, but I have been trying for the last two days to print the case for the Raspberry Pi and been unsuccessful after about 20 or so attempts using every variation I can think of. What settings did anyone here with that printer use?

31

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

What problem are you having with the print?

32

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

Namely, it keeps lifting. I tried several versions of the software, and even slicing the model in Cura and loading it into the printer as gcode with different kinds of supports, rafts, brims... nothing really sticks. The raft in the M3D's own software sticks... but it sticks far too well to the model and can't be removed even with razor blades.

Right now I am trying blue tape in case the BuildTak was worn out.

Figures these last few models are giving me trouble, I have printed every other part so far expect the camera tower and Raspberry Pi case, but I guess those worked because they were a lot smaller. Seems to lift when you have a large print.

33

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

I have not used an M3D but a non-level bed is one of the biggest causes of lifting -- however M3D supposedly has auto-leveling capabilities.  If you are printing with PLA, have you tried hair spray or glue sticks?

34

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

http://i.imgur.com/DD3Ug8g.jpg
Just wanted to show off my Atlas.
Haven't scanned anything yet since I'm having Pi related issues, but that's for another thread smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

35

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

Nice job on it! smile

36

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

By the way, I was curious about something with the calibration item.

Does the color used to print it have an affect on the accuracy of the calibration? Since black absorbs all wavelengths of light, and white is the exact opposite and reflects all wavelengths of light, would it be better to print the calibration item in white or black? Would the color still effect the wavelengths of light coming out of the lasers?

Or would even a different color be better than either black or white? I am going to assume red would probably be the worst choice since it would be the same color as the lasers.

37

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

I tried using the calibration thing, but found that I was having problems seeing the proper calibration, so I printed a grid of 1/2" squares, then stuck it to the face of a CD Jewel case, and this is what I use for calibration:

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=8787

You might want to try something like this.

Post's attachments

Calibration grid.jpg
Calibration grid.jpg 334.54 kb, 2 downloads since 2015-06-08 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.
To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

38 (edited by Cyber Akuma 2015-06-08 15:28:00)

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

You know, I have been so involved in my 3D printer as of late... especially trying to fine-tune it to get better prints, that when you said "I printed a grid of 1/2" squares" my first thought was "But I don't have a dual-extruder printer to print in two colors" ..... until I realized you meant printed on paper and felt like an idiot XD

Err, since I don't have my kit yet to start assembling the scanner, I don't know how the calibration works. The software isn't designed to look for that specific triangle-shaped tower thing to calibrate it? I am surprised something as drastically different as a checkerboard pattern in a cd case also works.

39 (edited by pirvan 2015-06-08 19:22:09)

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

The whole point of the calibration process is to get the lasers perpendicular to the scanning table, and crossing each other in the center of the table.

The calibration routine puts a cross hair in the center of the image that the camera sees.  The vertical line should be pointed to the center of the turntable, the horizontal line should be at the height specified by the software setup value (3.25" default if I remember correctly).  Once you have the cross hairs lined up, then you need to line up the lasers (both left and right), so their are perfectly parallel to the vertical line, and they meet in the center, like you see it there (they should appear as a single line).  When you think you have it lined up, click the TEST button.  You should get an image with a single vertical line in the middle of a black screen.

As far as the calibration piece included with the Atlas scanner is concerned, it was designed to do a couple of things.  The tips of the corner points are exactly 3.25" in height, so your horizontal cross hair should line up with the tips, and your vertical cross hair needs to line up with the center tip.  So in theory, it works the same as the grid, but the grid makes it a bit more accurate.

FWIW:  On the middle picture I have, my horizontal line is only 2.5" above the turntable.  That was an early test.  It is now 3.25" above it (one and a half rows higher).  If you want to get really accurate, you make your grid .25" squares

EDIT:
Here is a tip on camera adjustments.
The camera allows for a certain degree of tilt.  To get everything aligned and reduce perspective distortion, the camera should be perfectly vertical, with 0° tilt.  So when you adjust the height of the horizontal crosshair, never adjust the tilt, always move the camera up and down on the round shaft it's mounted to. 

To calibrate the tilt, go to camera mode, then use something vertical in the image for reference, something that is near the edge of the image.  Then tilt the camera until the vertical edge of the object is parallel to the edge of the image. 

If the camera is tilted up, you will have a perspective view with a vanishing point toward the top, tiled down, the vanishing point will be at the bottom. 

Hope this helps.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

40

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

I got a bit frustrated with the number of parts and screws in the design and re-drew things so the frame is made up of three identical C-channels that print vertically.  The first one is printing right now...

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:884189

41

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

@shampine1 You know that you have not the rights to publish the Links to the official STL Downloads?

42

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

He didn't.  He only posted the link to his own modification, which by itself is not the complete unit so no harm done.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

43

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

Click on the Link and on thingiverse you see he write the Original Link to the STL

44

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

Oh, I didn't see that...  That's not cool.

@shampine1.

Please remove the links to the Atlas 3D Printables from your Thingiverse link.  That link is only for the backers of the Atlas project, not for public access.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

45

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

ggunners wrote:

What print settings is everyone using for ABS? layer height, infill %, perimeters, top/bot layers etc. I know everyones 3D printer temp settings will be a little different. I'm using the XYZ DaVinci 1.0 printer.


did anybody answer your question on this? I couldnt find it.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

46

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

No responses. But not required. I just guessed a bit and printed all the parts. Thanks anyway.

-- ggunners

SD2 Expert stock, ABS fume fan,
XYZ DaVinci 1.0 stock ABS, Simplify3D
QUBD Two-Up PLA, new 3D printed X gantry, Y idler, flex z coupler, extruder mount, E3D Lite

47

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

should be a place in instructions saying what slicer settings recomended for best results I think, but none found so I was just wondering myself as I am about to print them.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

48

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

OK some print files are in desperate need of repairs the frame file is laying on its side instead of its back, the 2 halfs of PI2 bracket wont even load in Slic3r due to some freaky error. original files zip was missing left laser arm and had a couple more defective files which new files fixed. and now I am trying to print (only my 2nd of like 36 parts) the 'camera arm' and slic3r sees a couple errors netfab dont and only wants to make like a 40 sec print of a tiny piece of the part no matter how I angle it so I can not print it either. luckly I am using the old PI 1 and those parts seem to be OK but havnt sliced them yet either. the 1st part I printed 'camera bracket' turned out good. but this is getting very delayed now with all the errors in STL files that netfab says are fine. (btw I am printing parts at .2mm solid infill no raft or brim and support where needed only and my black filament is calibrated great). I am expecting my scanner by Monday and would like to assemble it soon so I can tweak other bugs out as posted on here by others and use it to scan items.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

49

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

I gotta toss this out there, I have printed all files with absolutely no issues running a .6 nozzle .3 layer height and 100% infill.  Not a single file was non manifold or otherwise in need of repair.  This leaves all of your complications being caused by something between your screen and your chair wink seriously though what version of Slic3r are you using?  I used 1.0.0RC3
Hope that helps.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

50 (edited by n2ri 2016-01-09 22:31:58)

Re: Printing Atlas 3D

I tried the new version slic3r also and same issues. also the Frame section laying on its side is an issue you cant blame on anything but how it was made. I had to rotate it so it lays on its back not requiring support for the other side of it. and I just finished a half hour print of camera case front and SLic3r didnt even see it was supposed to leave the open edge with attachment arms for the cable carrier, it made the short wall up side to it but no open edge nor arms with holes, nor bridge across to the wall. just a box with mount bracket at bottom, openning for lense and open top for cover. I tried repairing in netfab many ways to no effect. at this rate I will never finsh my inclosure with all the odd errors in many of the STL files that netfab dont see but slic3r does and wont load/slice correct. I dont have issues like this with the hundreds of other files I print. maybe these STL files where created in some format/app that dont catch some errors that Slicer does. so far I only have 2 small parts printed correct. I also cant load the files page from one of my laptops and no reason for why after trying firewall and other settings it seems to not like WinXP OS even with same firefox browser as my Win7 laptop that opens them fine. a couple bad files worked (at least loaded in Repetier Host) when I downloaded replacements from current site so some have been repaired since a few months ago when I 1st downloaded them. that tells me its a known issue that has been partly fixed.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs