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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → SD4 extruder upgrade: E3D V6
TickTock, I think you were the one who recommended using the existing mount for the E3Dv6...it worked out great.
Your model on Thingiverse is really impressive. What did you create that in? I may print one of yours and try it. I'm thinking of downsizing to a 30mm fan (I had a 40mm one mounted before) to keep the overall size low. I'm a believer in using a fan...it helps get great results!
TickTock, I think you were the one who recommended using the existing mount for the E3Dv6...it worked out great.
Your model on Thingiverse is really impressive. What did you create that in? I may print one of yours and try it. I'm thinking of downsizing to a 30mm fan (I had a 40mm one mounted before) to keep the overall size low. I'm a believer in using a fan...it helps get great results!
Thanks! I almost exclusively use Solidworks now. Once you learn SW, it is painful to use anything else. If you print the _lp version, it doesn't reduce the print volume at all (slightly increases it, in fact, over stock since the side fan is eliminated). The fan tucks underneath the Y belts when it is at the left most X position. However, the 30mm fan and smaller duct assembly may reduce the mass a bit. I *do* see a bit of ringing when it turns a hard corner so going smaller may help you increase speed without seeing this effect. You can see this ringing in the main photo for this belt guard around the holes. No - that's not an image compression artifact. 
Thanks! I almost exclusively use Solidworks now. Once you learn SW, it is painful to use anything else.
Amen !
mdonci wrote:Hello,
Is anyone here who could show the extruder settings in Repetier? I am trying to find the best ones, but I am unable to do it.
As in EEPROM Settings?
No, I mean in Repetier. I use it for slicing. I am also interested in extruder motor trim pot value. Someone told me that I have to adjust it.
No, I mean in Repetier. I use it for slicing. I am also interested in extruder motor trim pot value. Someone told me that I have to adjust it.
No, i did not say you had to, I said:
"you will need to make changes to the firmware, and may need to adjust the vref for the extruder motor once installed, tho."
Yes, I know that. I am looking for extrusion width, retraction, etc
the E3D typically comes with a .4mm nozzle, same as the SD4 nozzle, so no changes need to be made for that.
I did reduce the retraction for mine - the E3D doesn't ooze nearly as bad, but that is kind of dependent on the filament you use, too, so what works for one person may not work the same for you. Don't be afraid to experiment with it a little.
I didn't change any other settings as far as the extruder goes.
The biggest difference is going to be in your operating temperatures. The stock SD has the thermistor kapton taped on the outside of the nozzle that results in much lower temp readings than you will get with the E3D - the difference on mine was right around 50 degrees.
ABS temps with the stock nozzle were around 185-190C, with the E3D I am running around 235-240 (for Octave brand ABS), so be prepared to do some temperature calibrations all over again with your filament.
Guys, how can I make my printbead heat up faster? I have a 12V 30A power supply, I think it can be much faster. It almost takes forever to heat up.
There are many options and it seems the best ones involve a dedicated PSU, a relay and a new heater. Now how you choose to configure that really just comes down to how much money you want to spend. I like my bed heater to be faster than my extruder.
There are many options and it seems the best ones involve a dedicated PSU, a relay and a new heater. Now how you choose to configure that really just comes down to how much money you want to spend. I like my bed heater to be faster than my extruder.
Could you please tell me some more information about it?
I think there are other alternatives but lets figure out what's wrong with your current setup. I would start by taking a serious look at the connectors for the heat pad. How fast does it heat up when you just power it disconnected from the board directly to the PSU?
I don't think your power supply itself is the problem. I'm running an E3Dv6 with the original heated bed on a stock 12v, 12A SD4 power supply. I'm having no voltage drop whatsoever, and everything heats up fine.
I suggest checking the connections to the motherboard for the heater, and see what kind of voltage you're getting. If you're good with a DVM, check and see how much current your heater is drawing. If you can gather the volts/amps data for your extruder and bed heaters, it would be straightforward to see where the problem lies.
I'm reading through the info on the firmware upgrade, and I have a few dumb questions. I've read differing information regarding the following:
1. Is SD card support enabled?
2. Is LCD and click-encoder support enabled?
3. Is serial support for WiFi enabled?
4. Is ARC support enabled?I don't know that 1-3 are that critical for me, since I use OctoPI in mobile situations. I can see how the SD card ability would be handy for storing frequently-printed items.
I've figured out some answers on the firmware, thought I'd share:
SD card and LCD support are commented out by default in configuration.h, but can be enabled and configured. Serial port is defined as "0"; comments in configuration.h suggest that wireless can be configured, but unsure of what value to use to enable Wi-fi. I'm still looking through the code for ARC info.
Guys,
After you told me that I bought a fake E3D printhead, I've ordered one directly from e3d-online. It worked fine for a while with ABS, but when I tried to print PLA, it jammed. I celaned it out, but now even ABS jams. What could cause the problem? The jam is in the heatbreak, where is it screwed into the heatblock.
I think I have to order another nozzle and a heatbreak. Is there anything wrong with my settings? Somewhere I read that retraction causes this when printing PLA. Is it true?
Did you assemble it according to the instructions? There's no reason you should have to replace anything. Just heat it up to something like 280 and shove some abs through it by hand. If the clog is really at the heatbreak then it wasn't assembled properly.
Yes I did. Now I have heated it up, at pulled about 500 mm ABS filament through the assembled print head. Came out fine. After that I tried to print with the same filament, but nothing happened. The print head moves around over the print bed, but no filament comes out 
Just some thoughts being tossed out...
are the teeth clean on the feed gear?
is the motor turning properly?
does the motor have enough voltage?
and last, but not least - did you update your firmware for the correct thermistor table?
Yes, have cleaned it right before the last attempt. It turns properly, it eats the filament, but doesn't forward it to the print head.
Try tightening the pinch wheel. What is the diameter of the filament?
Try tightening the pinch wheel. What is the diameter of the filament?
SD4 doesn't have an adjustable pinch wheel if he is using the stock setup (and from earlier pics, it looks like he is). The only way to add more tension is to shim the spring with something - a small washer, a couple layers of card stock, or something of that nature.
and yeah - what is measured diameter of the filament? it is possible it could be a little undersized.
@mdonci,
If you load the filament, heat up the hot end, then are you able to press and release the tension arm and push the filament through manually?
@mdonci,
If you load the filament, heat up the hot end, then are you able to press and release the tension arm and push the filament through manually?
this. it should push fairly easily. if the filament buckles without anything coming out, you're clogged... luckily this is easy to fix on an e3d so let us know
MOST LIKELY your issues are from the crappy extruder on the SD4. as heartless said, shim that spring. then go buy a 625zz bearing and put an mk5 on to end all of your suffering.
The measured diameter is between 1.69 and 1.74 mm. Measured with a digital caliper.
I use printed printhead mount, but the upper part is the stock aluminium piece. I put small thin metal pieces under the spring, didn't help. I can pull out and in the filament between the bearing and the pulley. Both turns pretty well.
So, can you extrude manually by pushing on the filament?
Yes, I can. Filament comes out fine.
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