Re: Solidoodle 3? With issues
The ABS is from my original purchase from Solidoodle in March 2013, so it has gone bad (or wasn't that good originally?)
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Solidoodle 3? With issues
The ABS is from my original purchase from Solidoodle in March 2013, so it has gone bad (or wasn't that good originally?)
Both, go buy a fresh roll before you try anything else.
So, I have been searching this forum about edge lifting/shrinking but have not found a definitive solution.
Would a better heater help? Which one?
I saw a post about layer cooling fans - is this doable?
What modifications to their machines have SD3 owners used to improve the quality of the prints?
I have SolidWorks 3D design program, so I make my own models and output to .stl files
Seriously, throw that filament away. ABS requires a warm chamber and a good bed heater. But that print is so small it should print fine with none of that. The filament gets moisture in it within a couple months. At 6 years old it is not salvageable and it wasn’t great from SD to begin with.
A layer fan helps with overhang and bridges but makes the warping issue worse. Print on glass with some aqua net hairspray to promote adhesion.
I am ordering new ABS - OK? I am printing on a 6mm glass plate sprayed with TRESemme #5 fixatif.
Which bed heater?
Well I would be extremely biased. But, and I say this sincerely. If your stock heater is struggling to get to 100. The problem probably is more the PSU than anything. The stock PSU was really not up to the task. I think most of us SD users would suggest one modification at a time. For me that order would be prioritized like this.
1. E3d V6 all metal hot end
2. SuperNight PSU
3. Good enclosure and decent spool holder
4. New bed heater https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … -8-heatbed
There’s a reason we recommend Aqua Net Extreme hold unscented hairspray. Not that what you are using won’t work. I just don’t know the ingredients to verify it.
I think you’ll be amazed at what a difference new filament will make though.
material quality does matter.. low quality materials will warp faster than good quality will, but there are ways of dealing with warping.
sharp corners will warp faster than rounded edges, but you said even a round object lifted too? yikes.. get some better material to start with.
then there are things like a brim, or what are commonly referred to as "mickey mouse ears" to help hold problem areas down.
a better bed heater would help. The stock undersized silicone heater is just not robust enough to do a good job.
The good news is, there is a GREAT replacement for your SD3..
https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … -8-heatbed
I am running these on my SD4s and absolutely love them!
OK, wardjr and heartless - thank you for some useful information. I will investigate your suggestions, new ABS is on order....
Found this PS on Amazon.....
SuperNight AC 100-240V to DC 12V 10A Converter Adapter 120W Power Supply Switching Power Supply US Plug
Is this the one you're suggesting?
Found a E3D V6 all metal hot end also on Amazon, looks like...
And will add the Calidum 8 x 8 bed heater.
Er NO that power supply is way under powered and the e3d is an obvious clone.
While clones are not illegal or immoral the quality is not likely there.
All the upgrades you seek can be found at printit industries
https://www.printitindustries.com/collections/e3d-1
What Tin said.. everything you need can be found at PrintIt... yes, it will cost more, but quality parts are worth the price.
Cheap does not equal a good deal. Cheap, in 3d printing, usually means inferior quality. Stop buying cheap!
Same when it comes to filament - if it is under $18-20 a spool it is most likely of inferior quality.
If you absolutely must shop on Amazon, at least get Hatchbox filament. It is better than the majority of the garbage that is found there.
The Veracity line sold by Filastruder is good, as is the Coex brand
Also if you have a Microcenter near you their house brand Inland is very good and reasonably priced.
Also if you have a Microcenter near you their house brand Inland is very good and reasonably priced.
i wouldn't say it is "real good", but yeah, most of it is decent enough.
Yes, I do use a fair bit of their stuff, mostly because of color availability now that Octave and Makeshaper are gone.
I have had issues with their red (which is not a pretty color anyway, kinda dingy looking) and their orange.
The blues, green, black, & yellow seem to be fine.
I really like their silver PLA, too.. it reminds me of pewter.
Coex is good, but I can personally vouch for Veracity offered by Filastruder.
Inland is only good for the “Desperate times” print. When you have five clients seeking mass production is where Inland is agreeable, or just for testing. That’s about it.
A little blast from the past
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