Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 WiFi Build (Page 12 of 13)

That’s how I feel too, I think PETG is a great filament. What’s your next favorite?

So do you think that a better power supply will help with taking 9-10 minutes for the bed and extruder to heat up? Also will it help with the extruder temp fluctuating? It halted a print on me today because once the extruder hit temp and started printing it dropped instantly like 30-40c which caused the print to halt but then it jumps back up to temp or close to it. I rebooted everything and checked wires and fun no issues and I’m 20 percent into a print again with no issues besides the normal long warmup.

Parts are looking amazing.. turned down temp a bit and stringing is gone.

Got any pictures of a part plated?

Not yet.. Still deciding if I want to keep the item the part is intended for. If I decide not to keep it I won't be plating the part. Looking to plate it in Black Nickle though if I do. Just need to get the Nickle Solution.

A single layer of plating is usually around .0005" to .010". it just depends on the amount of time it is in the solution.

There is also an initial coating of conductive paint as well that is a few thou thick. That's the trick to electroplating non-conductive materials like plastic.

The V6 is direct feed meaning the extruder is mounted directly on top of the hotend and moves with it and adds weight to the hotend and X carriage.

The Bowden has the extruder mounted to the side of the cabinet and it feeds filament to the hotend through a flexible tube. Thus reducing the weight of the X carriage greatly. The drawback is the retraction does not work as well and flexible filaments don't work either.

A lighter X carriage can increase accuracy in some cases.

Checkout Printits website. Several of the guys here own/work for them and are official E3D sellers. They should have what you need. I think it is just a matter of a different top on the hotend to accept the tube and then the motor mount and fitting for the tube on the extruder end.

https://www.printitindustries.com/

Could be your layer fan is not focused enough on the layer and too much air is hitting the nozzle an bed. But it could be the power supply as well.

I can't imagine a fan pulling enough current to cause the supply to drop out unless it has a problem. Most of these small fans never pull more than 250ma at most. But it could be the issue. As for the bearings unless you can find or design a new carriage to house them your choices are limited.

Really you have done pretty much all you can. There comes a time when you just have to accept that you have done what you can and this is what you have.

If you better performance or more room then it is time to start considering a new machine. You could always sell this one to help with the cost of the new one or keep this and have two.

Of course if you have the tools and print or get things printed then really there is not limit as you could just make a better bed and platform you just need a machine shop.

This measurement directly affects your feed volume and it is critical to measure in three areas over a spread of a few feet and and average the results. If you are lazy and don't want to do this for every roll change then you can just fudge the multiplier. However it takes three quick readings, some fuzzy math, and entering one simple value into your slicer so why you would not want to do it is beyond me.

If the layer fan is connected to the controller and not just power then the slider in RH should control. The issue is however that I cannot find how that port controls speed. If it is PWM then the fan should work. If it is voltage than you need a fan that can run on at least half the voltage it is rated for. Some of the cheaper fans will just turn off at lower voltages.

Wall thickness is part of calibration and should be done. Again this directly affects your flow volume.

Could be an issue with temp dropping on long feed times. You may need to bump up the temp 5 degrees or so so it will stay at temp during long runs. You would need to watch the temp during the infill printing to see how much it drops if it is. Another issue could be under extrusion due to your feed rate on your extruder not being calibrated correctly. You get the steps per mm set right but you still need to calibrate the slicer to set the correct feed rate by doing the single wall test print and measuring and adjusting until it is .48 wide.