Topic: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Hi SoliForum!

I have been reading a lot on this forum about peoples attitude towards Airwolf - and i agree. I just got hired in a new company, unfortunately a couple of months to late. They just bought a airwolf AXIOM printer. And are having a great number of problems. If i could i would have returned the printer and bought a Ultimaker or Rostock Max instead. My Boss however, really likes the look of the printer and hopes it can work. So i got the task of improving the printer.

* The fans are only on/off 
   FIX  -  I fixed this by changing to Sunon fans and adding a large capacitor in parallel with the fans(the capacitor might be
             enough on it's own.

* The nozzles ware out crazy fast. The printer has a auto-level procedure before every print. this works by using the nozzle
   and a metal edge on the bed to create electric connection. it works great if the nozzle is clean. Cleaning the nozzle
   involves dragging the soft aluminium nozzles through a much harder brass brush. Destroying the hole and creating burrs.
   FIX  -  I didn't really fix this yet. The solution will be to add a inductive sensor and using this instead of the nozzle to
             probe the bed. So far i just made a adapter to regular M6 brass nozzles (MK8 for example) instead of those crazy
             expensive aluminum nozzles. as it is now brass vs. brass the wear is less, but still significant.

* The extruder is really good at grinding the filament. The constantly damaged nozzle isn't making it easier for the
   extruder. Also this super tight bend of the bowden tube that Airwolf i so proud of.. well it is TO TIGHT. the filament is hard
   to even push by hand.
   FIX  -  I am working on solving this by making a new extruder and a all new hotend with a E3d/Dyzend for 1.75 mm
             instead. i find the 1,75 easier to work with as it is more flexible, and the extruder doesn't have to work as
             hard(slow) to extrude filament.

To do some of these fixes(proximity sensor probe, and the 500c dyzend) i really need to edit the firmware on the printer. I know it is running Marlin, but it is also modified, offering some quite nayz features through the display. I'm a mechanical engineer with a lot of 3d printer experience. I can do the basic edits in the Configuration.h file and so, but I don't really have the guts to do a full rebuild of the software on this printer.

SO i have two questions to you people out there!

1 - Does anyone still have the AXIOM printer? what are you thoughts? have you made any improvements?
2 - Does anyone have the source Marlin code for the AXIOM printer? Is there any way to get it from the printer?

Best regards Daniel


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Hi Daniel,

Did you ever get the design completed for the Dyze hot-end?  I have an Axiom Dual and have plenty of info for you regarding some of your questions.


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Hey Colorich!

Well i finished a design for the hotend now using the Dyze-end. I use the Bondtech Qr extruder. I use a inductive sensor for bed probing instead of using the nozzle. I also created a much better tension system for the belt (not vissible on the picture though).

I got the firmware from Airwolf (at least) so the printer is now up and "running". I can start a print and actually trust it to at least finish it. However, it's not pretty and I'm so definitely still not happy with it.. and honestly i think I'm stuck.. I simply cannot figure out what is wrong..
Here are some of the BEST results i could get after HOURS of playing around with Slic3r.
Simple cubes print almost okei, but as soon as we involve some retraction (more advanced prints) it just fucks up big time with the consistensy.
And using cura standard settings wasn't much better (the third bency):

It extrudes so unevenly.. It can print absolutely amazing for some layers and then fail miserably with over- and under-extrusion for other layers.. If i watch carefully i can see that the line of filament is also very varying in size. Actually I'm beginning to suspect the Dyzend for being a shitty hotend.. But that would surprise me. I have done everything in my power to ease the filament movement through the bowden.

If you have any inputs i would be glad to hear!

It really bothers me that this machine (which wasn't cheap) is so horrible, when my own private old pusa i3 is running smooth as silk, producing prints that really impress me sometimes..


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

And the extruder:


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

I also slightly suspect that the temperature sensor in the dyzend(500 degree version) is reading wrong.. the temperature is dead stable while printing, even with part fans on. But i once had the bondtech simply rip out the bodentube of its fitting. Cudos for that extruder, dont think you will ever need more power than that..
But i have no idea how to varify the temperature.. aand if it can even couse these problems..


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Dan : sorry to hear about the air wolf struggles.
I have found with complexx problems take a breath break down the issues and go back to basics. mke sure the machine is tuned the the bed is leved the extuer is calibrated and set for that particular roll of filament.

this  may help https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin … eshooting/
it has helped me and others in the past break down the printing issues.
as far as nozzle wear if you are using abrasive filled filament you need a hard steel nozzle. a new alternative is a ruby nozzle . A brass nozzzle with a ruby insrt they are like $ 90 not cheap but will not wear,

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed
Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to  ED3v6 and titan extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Dan, please email me at:  colorich@gmail.com


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Dan, would you share the .stl files for your design?


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

I had a break of 2 month not working on the printer at all..
We never printed anything else but PLA and ABS. The new setup with the dyzend and inductive proximity sensor also has no wear issues.

I know the guide and i used it to perfect my own printer ( the hand shown above) and I would say that I'm not a noob at 3D printers.. But this particular machine is really testing me! xD

What is wrong when a printer is both under extruding and over extruding and printing fine in the same print!? i simply don't get it...

Anyone had positive experience with the dyzend?


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Colorich I sent you a mail wink


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Hey Dan, I didn't receive anything yet...


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

I tried again from a different mail


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Thanks Daniel, I got it and replied.  smile


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

I started to suspect temperature issues. so i started playing around with the settings.
These two badboys are printed at what the printer thinks is 255 degrees C. Except for the chimney on the benchy and the legs of marvin both prints actually look pretty okei, not perfect but okei. They certanly doesn't look like they are printed at 255 degrees!

So it seems that there is a offset on the temperature somehow. Since the hole hotend is made of steel, both the heaterblock and nozzle i suspect that the temperature at the sensor is in fact fairly high, bot the nozzle tip which is rather far away from the thermistor may be cooled down to much. However the problem seem to be present with cooling fans off as well though..



Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

They look good.  It's nice to get successful prints after all your hard work. The hot ends and nozzles are made of aluminum and the "cold end" fins are steel, I believe.  What is your temperature variance?


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

The Dyzend is made fully of steel (except the cooling fins they are aluminium) to be able to reach 500 degree without any hassle.

I haven't found a good way to measure the actual temperature of the nozzle tip (any advise appreciated). However, i have now confirmed the temperature was the issue.. The following part is printed at:
-60 mm/s
-0.2 mm layer height.
-265 degrees (at least that is what the machine thinks)
-Sliced with Cura 2.3.1

And the part:

So finally the printer is producing useful parts!! Still not perfect, but useful!

It seems like i have to adjust the thermistortable (dyze design provide a special tbale for their specific thermistor)
Any good idea how to do this? I don't want to calibrate to what the sensor reads, but the actual temperature at the tip of the nozzle.

17 (edited by Tin Falcon 2017-01-13 11:36:54)

Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Harbor freight tools sells mulimeters with a thermocouple temp probe for  IIRC about $20 on sale
you should be able to attache the probe to or near the nozzle long enough to get a temp reading.
You should be able to use a piece of kapton tape to hold the probe in place

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed
Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to  ED3v6 and titan extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Daniel, not sure if it will help, but have you done a PID auto-tune on the hot end?

19 (edited by mrallinwonder 2017-01-13 15:23:26)

Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

3 things fixed the filament grinding on my Press:
1. Wipe a few inches of filament with peanut oil before inserting. Lots of googly stuff out there on this.
2. After each print remove the filament with a cold pull.
3. But the biggest thing was the bottom of the heat break tube, the heat block, and top of the nozzle weren't exactly concentric and gap free. Every push or retract involved a tiny snag, leading to the thump of death after a few layers. The fix:
Disassemble the hot end, clean, inspect till it was perfect.
Reassemble making sure the bottom of the heat break tube was screwed tight onto the top of the nozzle with no gap. As opposed to these parts touching just the block but not each other.
Then find the biggest drill or metal rod that slides through the heat break down through the nozzle right down to where it starts to narrow.
Chuck the pointy part of the drill, leave the smooth bit sticking out. Yes, ass backwards.
Coat the drill or rod with some fine polishing compound and tapping fluid.
Hold the heat block assembly in one hand, drill in the other, and at low speed POLISH the inside of the assembly.
In-out movement and light pressure to polish, not heavy pressure to drill, cut, or enlarge anything.
When you're done the drill will come out with fluid gone black and the drill looking shiny under  that.  Just takes a minute or 2.
Solvent clean the assembly thoroughly, dry and reinstall. But no diassembly of the break/block/nozzle.

For months now I've had NO nozzle clogs and only a few grinds, instead of a grind or clog every second print.
This worked on my direct drive, all metal hot end Press. A bowden or PTFE hot end will require changes.


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Yes i did PID tuning. I now measured it with a digital thermometer, and at the sensor the heatbrick is exactly what the sensor measures. But the nozzle is 40-60 degrees colder... I am surprised how bad the thermal design of this hotend is..

Mrallinwonder: Thx, but i don't really have issues with clogged nozzles smile


Re: Airwolf AXIOM - A.. not so great printer

Smoothing and lubing inside the print head finally fixed the grinding filament thing you mentioned...on my printer. All my other fiddling with temps, retraction, wheel pressure, and extruder head fans only made it slightly better.
I really hated that thump of death.