1 Topic by lawsy

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Topic: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I know it hasn't been very long since the mk3 release but when the challenge was laid down for a quick release hot end I couldn't resist.

Thingiverse Link

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:47561/

The advantages of this new model:

- Hotend can be removed without undoing a single nut or bolt. The filament does not even need to be retracted. This should allow multiple hot ends to be interchanged or the hot end to be removed for unclogging in seconds. See video at the end.

- Adjustable screw for x-axis end stop homing. Now you can tweak your home position for the x axis. This may come in handy if you need it to home further to the left to clear bed clip or something like that.

- Even less screws required for assembly. The wooden laser cut plate that used to hold the PEEK barrel is no longer required, and that eliminates two nuts and bolts.

- The hot end sits higher than before, allowing about 5mm extra z-height for printing. This means adding a glass bed is easier and may not require any change to the z-height adjustment bracket.

Compromises of this new model

- Although the accessory easy clip on system is retained, it is compromised due to having a gap in the middle. If you do not desire the quick release feature, then print and use the retainer from the mk3.

Credits

Credit to Tek and Jeffery Sanders for their contributions.

Instructions

1. Print the three STLs: main, top and retainer. 50% fill is recommended with support turned off. You may like to use a drill bit to clean the bores where the M3 screws go through.

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5673/01partsprinted.jpg

2. Use a sharp knife to remove the built in support section of the main piece. In this release the top piece is a new design and prints a different way up to avoid needing support.

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/81/02supportremoved.jpg

3. Attach body piece to extruder carriage. Depending on your model you may have nuts at the front. If so, place them in the hex cut out and then screw in the long M3 bolts. Use one of the shorter M3 bolts that used to hold the wooden plate as the x axis end stop.

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/2889/03baseattached.jpg

4. Attach the stepper motor to the body piece.

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7932/04extruderattached.jpg

5. Attach top piece and tensioner arm. Original tensioner arm may be used if you prefer.

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1207/05topandtensionerattach.jpg

6. Screw on retainer piece if you plan to use clip in accessories. I used countersunk M3 bolts.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6447/06retainerattached.jpg

7. Slide in PEEK barrel with hot end attached.

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8063/07mk4assembled.jpg

Print!

Demonstration of quick change

Applications

Easy removal of hot end to clear clogs is now easier than ever. I am building a second hot end and will keep one for ABS and the other for PLA. Changing between will now be effortless and I won't have to worry about the mixed materials clogging. You could also have another hot end with a larger size nozzle to interchange.

I have what I think is a really good an super fast heating hot end design now, which I will document the build of when the rest of the parts arrive. Its secret is using two heating resistors for rapid response.

lawsy's Website

2 Reply by Zarni

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

As I have my printer apart to change the power supply I think this will have to be done, very nice work indeed. I like the higher location of the PEEK, I never could understand why it was low in the first place.

Just a small question though, doesn't the nozzle move backwards and forwards at all, especially when printing big lines in the Y direction? I would have thought some quick release clip in front of the PEEK would have been needed to maintain accuracy?

-= Zarni =-

3 Reply by cmetzel

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Sorry to make you redesign by showing that link.  haha

This is brilliant work.  SD needs to adopt this, it has to be cheaper than the jigsaw and would make the end user experience easier to support should something go wrong. 

Thanks for this work!

4 Reply by jon_bondy

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Zarni wrote:

doesn't the nozzle move backwards and forwards at all, especially when printing big lines in the Y direction? I would have thought some quick release clip in front of the PEEK would have been needed to maintain accuracy?

My thoughts, exactly.  I love what you've done, but wonder about the PEEK wandering around a bit during printing

5 Reply by jefferysanders (edited by jefferysanders 2013-02-09 14:34:34)

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

That peek position change is huge improvement, I've been wanting to change that myself for awhile, I would say that's a perfect spot.  I edited the screw your easy-mount to work as the retainer, it will be more stable and will be nearly as easy to remove with just 2 screws for hot-end freedom.  (I personally made a fast release version where you could just pull out the 2 peek wood screws [I had holes all the way through the block vertically] so the unit would slide forward after those 2 were removed, but it need a extra spring and a mirrored idler; I like this way better, there are no weak spots to deal with...you also fixed the hex mount hole which caused issues.)

I will start editing with sketch-up to see how it goes; but like I said I am noob at GSKP so...I was able to do it with Tinkercad very fast...here it is!

Keep in mind that I reversed your DI Mount (The fan would need to be reversed as well), I had to use it from the bottom already.

edited: (2-7-13) --2/9/13 slight adjustment to new part for better printing and .5mm lower so the screw will hit a better spot on the peek -- redesigned the pressure point to use one of the leftover screws from the wood plate as a set pin -- part orientation fixed, it will fit better w/o cutting; extended pressure point so you can cut it if needed to customize the hold...still having issues with the top printing to fast (it works fine regardless), I'm going to try printing slower this time...I got it to print slow enough by adding a 20x20 calibration cube, that I stretch out to be a bit taller than the object.  I really need to get a g-code fan going for these smaller parts.

Post's attachments

ezclipretainer (1) (repaired).stl 37.09 kb, 110 downloads since 2013-02-09 

ezclip_and_retainer1.stl 31.43 kb, 94 downloads since 2013-02-07 

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6 Reply by coleke

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Awesome work, Lawsy!

Grand Rapids, Michigan
SD2 with Sanguinololu board, glass bed mod, E3d_v5 bowden version hotend (currently direct drive), Lawsy Mk5 jigsaw replacement, octopi printserver, drv8825(tiny troubles)

7 Reply by lawsy

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

No problems with wobble. When the peek is pushed the whole way in it's quite tight. You can see in the video how much I have to wiggle it to get it moving.

lawsy's Website

8 Reply by satman49

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

As someone already said SD  should use that instead of the  current one.  It sure looks to be a lot easier to change the hotend,  lol SD are  ya'll listening? That will probably my first print when I get my SD 3

SD3, E3D hotend,linear bearing on x/y axis',pillow block bearing on y conneting rod, ball bearngs on front y axis, fan on y stepper motor.

9 Reply by cephdon

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Awesome job Lawsy! That is really very nice. I will now need to print off an upgrade that uses this design.

10 Reply by vince7c95 (edited by vince7c95 2013-02-07 05:53:07)

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I see you got rid of the wood piece. I was curious if that part served any function. Was it just an alignment piece? I was thinking it was acting as a heat shield for the plastic. I noticed it's also where the end stop switch contacts the head. I've been wanting to get rid of that part as well, but just didn't know if it served a function other than contacting the switch.

In any case, thanks for posting the working file. Can't wait to try this.

11 Reply by lawsy

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Like you say it seemed to help with alignment and touch the end stop switch. Fortunately the first one I printed lined up the screw with the end stop perfectly.

lawsy's Website

12 Reply by jefferysanders (edited by jefferysanders 2013-02-07 18:12:28)

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I can't slide the Peek all the way back, is this a design aspect to squeeze the hotend?  I'm going to leave the retainer the way it is  for now (so it can be cut after printing) because I can't determine how long to make it as my peek has about a 2 mm gap from seating all the way back.  I can easily cutout plastic to make it fit perfect for my Peek. I would say either way it seems to be working well.

13 Reply by lawsy

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Mine fit first go. Since it is a tightish fit, it makes sense that the mating area might need any imperfections removed for a proper fit.

lawsy's Website

14 Reply by cmetzel

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Not to look a gift horse in the mouth as they say, but I'm wondering if you could have a wedge incorporated into the tool mounting area that you lost making it open.  Still wouldn't need to remove any screws but it wouldn't require exact snug fit and would alleviate the concerns about movement in the y axis.  If someone isn't dialed in correctly they may have a looser fit than what you're getting, a wedge should compensate for that and still provide the same convenience you're striving for.

It's hard to explain let me know if it's unclear.

15 Reply by jefferysanders (edited by jefferysanders 2013-02-07 20:07:54)

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

No worries, it works fine with the filament being pushed in at a angle...speed test time. 300 infill speed was not a issue before the improvement.  I will post my speed results here as soon as I get them.

16 Reply by lawsy (edited by lawsy 2013-02-08 00:39:07)

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

cmetzel wrote:

Not to look a gift horse in the mouth as they say, but I'm wondering if you could have a wedge incorporated into the tool mounting area that you lost making it open.  Still wouldn't need to remove any screws but it wouldn't require exact snug fit and would alleviate the concerns about movement in the y axis.  If someone isn't dialed in correctly they may have a looser fit than what you're getting, a wedge should compensate for that and still provide the same convenience you're striving for.

It's hard to explain let me know if it's unclear.

I debated whether to include this and even had a part drafted up, but in the end it just isn't neccessary. If numerous people are reporting fitment problems then I'll consider adding it.

Probably the easier thing to do for anyone finding their hot end isn't a nice fit is to tweak the extrusion multiplier in the slicer ONLY for this print.

lawsy's Website

17 Reply by cmetzel

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I was just suggesting it to make it foolproof.  We have a saying here at my work.  No matter how much I do to foolproof, you guys keep finding better fools.

18 Reply by Tomek

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Lol, I was just printing a backup replacement MK3 when I saw this and canceled smile. I was only 10 minutes in, anyway.

19 Reply by kkciampa

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Do you happen to know if there is a 40MM fan w/ duct setup already out there to work with this setup?

20 Reply by jefferysanders

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

kkciampa wrote:

Do you happen to know if there is a 40MM fan w/ duct setup already out there to work with this setup?


The MK3 fan should work.  If you use my retainer you will probably need to glue the mount on the fan so you can insert it from the bottom and not the top that should be the only difference.

21 Reply by kkciampa

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

jefferysanders wrote:
kkciampa wrote:

Do you happen to know if there is a 40MM fan w/ duct setup already out there to work with this setup?


The MK3 fan should work.  If you use my retainer you will probably need to glue the mount on the fan so you can insert it from the bottom and not the top that should be the only difference.


Ok cool, I have an abundance of 40mm fans. but no 30mm. Thank you.

22 Reply by op7ical

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

This is an excellent design.  Would someone (Lawsy, or anyone else) be willing to print out and ship me a copy of Lawsy's MK4?  I accidentally mangled my acrylic pieces during an unclogging bout, and would like to try this as a replacement. 

I'd be willing to pay like $20 plus shipping for a copy at 100% infill and maybe 3 perimeters (or whatever you think is necessary).  Also, for shipping considerations, I live in Orlando, FL.

Thanks everyone!

23 Reply by jon_bondy

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I'd be happy to, but Tim lives right across the street from you.  At least that's how it looks from here in Vermont!

24 Reply by nickythegreek

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

Updated the wiki mod page to point this mk4 design.

25 Reply by dubbsd

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Re: Jigsaw Replacement mk4

I am going to print the MK4 and an adaptor for a dial indicator so I can take out the extruder
and insert the indicator for leveling the bed when it needs leveling.

Ultimaker S3.