1 (edited by mdrVB6 2015-02-03 15:51:02)

Topic: E3D M3 screw on stud thermistor

I'm just wondering if anyone has tried this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321490496841

It seems like it would be less accurate than the stock thermistor because the heat would have to penetrate thru the brass before reaching the thermistor.  It would probably also not react as fast.  I'm skeptical about the PTFE insulation.

However, it does look a lot less fragile.  I used to short a thermistor fairly frequently due to movement causing fraying of the fiberglass insulation.  This was partially helped by securing the wires to the mount with a zip tie but that was a pain because its just one more thing to redo if you have to take apart your mount.  It was totally fixed when I wrapped a little kapton around each individual wire to just prevent the fraying entirely.  It looks like this screw in stud thermistor is more durable, but how well does it work is the question?

For $12 shipped, its worth a try but I would love to hear from anyone who has already used it.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

2

Re: E3D M3 screw on stud thermistor

More durable? Yes.
Less accurate? Also yes.

I have several hundred prints on my v6, no errors. A zip tie takes 5 seconds to remove/install. How often are you swapping hotends?!

3

Re: E3D M3 screw on stud thermistor

I'm not swapping very often, so I understand that a zip tie does generally work.  My main dislike on the zip tie is taking a knife that close to my heater and thermistor wires when the time does change to move something. 

Anyway, have you used the linked thermistor?  I will pick one up and put it to use as long as it generally works.  ABS seems to have a fairly wide extrusion temp, I know I can go up or down 5 degrees with no visible difference.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

4

Re: E3D M3 screw on stud thermistor

Knife? What are we, cavemen?

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Sta … wire+snips

No, I have no used the M3 screw in version. In my experience the Semitec 104GT-2 has served nicely.

5

Re: E3D M3 screw on stud thermistor

elmoret wrote:

Knife? What are we, cavemen?

lol

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

6

Re: E3D M3 screw on stud thermistor

Haha, ya I've been using a big fat utility knife like some kind of savage.  With all the zip tie use in the binding of nylon filament for dying that I do I guess its past time to get the $5 snips.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

7

Re: E3D M3 screw on stud thermistor

I've been using one on my E3D v6 for 4 or 5 months. Thumbs Muldoon here broke the original one shortly after installation.  I see no problems.  I print mostly with PLA at 180C, so I may not be experiencing the problems encountered at higher more accurate temps. I've had to remove it a couple of times due to operator error - again, I see no problems.

Ender 3 Pro

8

Re: E3D M3 screw on stud thermistor

Ski52 wrote:

I print mostly with PLA at 180C, so I may not be experiencing the problems encountered at higher more accurate temps.

That's a problem. With the E3D, you should be printing PLA around 220c.
Did you update the firmware?

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

9

Re: E3D M3 screw on stud thermistor

Az - I'm not posing a problem.  My prints come out pretty much OK, and I have to use a hammer and chisel to get them off the hair sprayed glass.  I'm printing with just the stock 30mm E3D fan because, I can't find a deck cooling fan that will work with the v6. 
Also, it's getting harder to find things for the SD2 - we're getting a little 'old'.

Ender 3 Pro