1 (edited by pricecg44 2015-01-21 03:28:46)

Topic: prints not sticking

All of a sudden the  plastic lines are not sticking to the glass.

I presume the bed thermocouple  has changed?

Any similar experience.

My printer is effectively stuffed.

I recalibrated FINALLY after 30 attempts!!!, which is
practically non-functional, you could not zero in, it would
'wobble' over the place.  Also three measurements of the same positioning gave:
  062  189  232
188 214 273
173 205 272

there are some occasional way off (100) values.

I wonder if the temperatre of the extruder comes into play, there is a 10 deg C
variation of the extruder temp  from 220 to 206 when the measurements start as thebed trigger temp is reached and the extruder temp can be above or below the set.

2

Re: prints not sticking

Just played with the android app 'davinci calibrator' on my galaxy ace.
Looks good, numbers and turning directions come up.
Too chicken to fiddle at this point. I'm trying to get communications to work to be able to load to the SD card and run.

3

Re: prints not sticking

pricecg44 wrote:

Just played with the android app 'davinci calibrator' on my galaxy ace.
Looks good, numbers and turning directions come up.
Too chicken to fiddle at this point. I'm trying to get communications to work to be able to load to the SD card and run.

If you are running Repetier Frimware and host I would not advise running live over USB unless the newest version has fixed the issue I found. With the last version which was not in BIN form, I found there is a problem with the communication [rotocols. The Software will send the gcode data real time to the printer. The printer is supposed to send back to the software to not send anymore data as my buffer is full. It however doe not do this. Instead the software just keeps streaming the data to the printer until it is done. Then the printer will continue to print until what ever was loaded into the buffer at first is used up. You can test this or at least I could by changing the port speed. At higher speeds the issue would happen sooner. At lower speeds it would happen later. What would happen is once the buffer is empty the end gcode is never sent as it was streamed into oblivion. The head will stop with the heater on and the bed heater on and the head will just sit there melting a hole into the spot is stopped at.

Another issue I had when trying to print real time over USB is that the same comm issue would make the host lock up, Since the temp is monitored and controlled by the host this is a serious issue. If it locks up it no longer monitors the temp and so no longer adjust it. Both the bed and hot end will go into thermal runaway and reach whatever temp is possible until you smell ABS that is way too hot like I did. This also made the bed hot enough that the nuts on the adjusting screws inside the bed rounded out their holes and I had to glue them in so I could adjust my bed.

So please if you run Rep Firmware and host and try to print live over USB do not leave the printer alone. Also with this combination I have not been able to transfer files to the card.

I put my card inside the print area using an extension cable. I just remove it, put in my laptops card reader and put the files on it then put back in the printer. Restart the printer and print from the LCD. When I print from the card using the LCD I never have any issues with crashing, stalling, locking up, and so on.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

4

Re: prints not sticking

I just want to replicate what the xyzware comm does: send a code file to SD card and issue a print start command. No streaming buffering involved.

5

Re: prints not sticking

carl_m1968 wrote:
pricecg44 wrote:

Just played with the android app 'davinci calibrator' on my galaxy ace.
Looks good, numbers and turning directions come up.
Too chicken to fiddle at this point. I'm trying to get communications to work to be able to load to the SD card and run.

If you are running Repetier Frimware and host I would not advise running live over USB unless the newest version has fixed the issue I found. With the last version which was not in BIN form, I found there is a problem with the communication [rotocols. The Software will send the gcode data real time to the printer. The printer is supposed to send back to the software to not send anymore data as my buffer is full. It however doe not do this. Instead the software just keeps streaming the data to the printer until it is done. Then the printer will continue to print until what ever was loaded into the buffer at first is used up. You can test this or at least I could by changing the port speed. At higher speeds the issue would happen sooner. At lower speeds it would happen later. What would happen is once the buffer is empty the end gcode is never sent as it was streamed into oblivion. The head will stop with the heater on and the bed heater on and the head will just sit there melting a hole into the spot is stopped at.

Another issue I had when trying to print real time over USB is that the same comm issue would make the host lock up, Since the temp is monitored and controlled by the host this is a serious issue. If it locks up it no longer monitors the temp and so no longer adjust it. Both the bed and hot end will go into thermal runaway and reach whatever temp is possible until you smell ABS that is way too hot like I did. This also made the bed hot enough that the nuts on the adjusting screws inside the bed rounded out their holes and I had to glue them in so I could adjust my bed.

So please if you run Rep Firmware and host and try to print live over USB do not leave the printer alone. Also with this combination I have not been able to transfer files to the card.

I put my card inside the print area using an extension cable. I just remove it, put in my laptops card reader and put the files on it then put back in the printer. Restart the printer and print from the LCD. When I print from the card using the LCD I never have any issues with crashing, stalling, locking up, and so on.

I run Repetier firmware and host and I expected to have this problem because I remember you asking about baudrate in another thread. I have not seen this issue during my prints- although my longest print on repetier has only been about 5 hours. I run version 0.91 with my baudrate one level below stock (230,something). Is there a particular reason that I don't have this problem or have not encountered it just yet?

Repinci 1.0 + Repetier host

6

Re: prints not sticking

rockosmodlife wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:
pricecg44 wrote:

Just played with the android app 'davinci calibrator' on my galaxy ace.
Looks good, numbers and turning directions come up.
Too chicken to fiddle at this point. I'm trying to get communications to work to be able to load to the SD card and run.

If you are running Repetier Frimware and host I would not advise running live over USB unless the newest version has fixed the issue I found. With the last version which was not in BIN form, I found there is a problem with the communication [rotocols. The Software will send the gcode data real time to the printer. The printer is supposed to send back to the software to not send anymore data as my buffer is full. It however doe not do this. Instead the software just keeps streaming the data to the printer until it is done. Then the printer will continue to print until what ever was loaded into the buffer at first is used up. You can test this or at least I could by changing the port speed. At higher speeds the issue would happen sooner. At lower speeds it would happen later. What would happen is once the buffer is empty the end gcode is never sent as it was streamed into oblivion. The head will stop with the heater on and the bed heater on and the head will just sit there melting a hole into the spot is stopped at.

Another issue I had when trying to print real time over USB is that the same comm issue would make the host lock up, Since the temp is monitored and controlled by the host this is a serious issue. If it locks up it no longer monitors the temp and so no longer adjust it. Both the bed and hot end will go into thermal runaway and reach whatever temp is possible until you smell ABS that is way too hot like I did. This also made the bed hot enough that the nuts on the adjusting screws inside the bed rounded out their holes and I had to glue them in so I could adjust my bed.

So please if you run Rep Firmware and host and try to print live over USB do not leave the printer alone. Also with this combination I have not been able to transfer files to the card.

I put my card inside the print area using an extension cable. I just remove it, put in my laptops card reader and put the files on it then put back in the printer. Restart the printer and print from the LCD. When I print from the card using the LCD I never have any issues with crashing, stalling, locking up, and so on.

I run Repetier firmware and host and I expected to have this problem because I remember you asking about baudrate in another thread. I have not seen this issue during my prints- although my longest print on repetier has only been about 5 hours. I run version 0.91 with my baudrate one level below stock (230,something). Is there a particular reason that I don't have this problem or have not encountered it just yet?

According to Luc who posted in my warning thread and I assume is one of the people behind the port of the firmware he said the issue was unique to my build and was a known issue. According to him the wait identifier command in the firmware had a typo. It should be "wait" all lower case. Not "Wait" as it was in the package. I have corrected it and will try running a live print today.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

7

Re: prints not sticking

Back to the original post line.

My prints don't stick, is it the thermocouple?

8 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-01-22 19:27:07)

Re: prints not sticking

pricecg44 wrote:

All of a sudden the  plastic lines are not sticking to the glass.

I presume the bed thermocouple  has changed?

Any similar experience.

My printer is effectively stuffed.

I recalibrated FINALLY after 30 attempts!!!, which is
practically non-functional, you could not zero in, it would
'wobble' over the place.  Also three measurements of the same positioning gave:
  062  189  232
188 214 273
173 205 272

there are some occasional way off (100) values.

I wonder if the temperatre of the extruder comes into play, there is a 10 deg C
variation of the extruder temp  from 220 to 206 when the measurements start as thebed trigger temp is reached and the extruder temp can be above or below the set.

Have you tried to calibrate the bed using the manual method stickied in this section? The autocal really does not set the correct height. If you set with the manual method and use a feeler gauge of .15mm rather than paper you should get better results. I print with nothing but bare clean glass using XYZ's ABS filament and I never have issues with prints lifting or not sticking. I will note that I do have my bed set at 110 however. There are methods to modify your gcode to do this if you are using stock software and firmware.

Just to give you an example, based on your last autocal with the values of 173 205 272 those equate to .173mm, .205mm, and .272mm. The optimal print height should be .150mm. As you can see all of those are too high and a couple are way too high. Your first layer should look squished and be almost twice as wide as it is tall. In other words your bed height should be set to at most half of your desired layer thickness. If you print .1 layers then you have to go down to a bed height of .05mm meaning to run manual cal but use a .05 feeler gauge.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

9

Re: prints not sticking

I have first layers that have started to peel off. Is this not a sign of bed under-temp?

I have images, but cannot post them here- not priviledged enough or missed the well hidden gui interface.

10

Re: prints not sticking

pricecg44 wrote:

I have first layers that have started to peel off. Is this not a sign of bed under-temp?

I have images, but cannot post them here- not priviledged enough or missed the well hidden gui interface.

What is your set and monitored bed temp?

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

11

Re: prints not sticking

Calibrate (feller gauge works like a charm and it's just 3-4€ on amazon.

Send a print, when the head starts printing, turn off. Move the head, clean it. And do a calibration. For me 0,15 feller works like a charm for a nice first layer.

If even then it don't sticks. Use blue tape. If that don't works use blue tape with stick glue. If that don't works, do what I do. Blue Tape, Hair Spray on a sponge and I cover the blue tape printing area with the sponge (less messier than spraying over the inside of the machine). My print's are very hard to remove, but when cold it's just take a bit of getting the hang of it.

If you get curling on upper layers, that's a total different history then smile

12 (edited by pricecg44 2015-01-23 07:46:44)

Re: prints not sticking

Ok so we have the newly calibrated platform that is the wrong height that would cause the prints to go wrong?

I presumed the printer determines the height of the printer and go from there.
Or is it just one corner and if the platform is off wrt the measured point it causes this.

I will try feeler gauges.

13

Re: prints not sticking

I'm a bit sceptical of the extruded being too close to the bed causing a too thin a layer, which then causes it not to stick as the manual calibrator so say.

But can those that have had similar experience with the peeling layers not sticking confirm this.
I presumed the bed somehow was at a lower than normal temp.
I'll go and get a feeler and try the .15 and see what happens.

14 (edited by scobo 2015-01-23 08:44:11)

Re: prints not sticking

I also don't bother with anything on the bed now and don't have any problem with prints not sticking.
Like Carl said, it's all about getting the right bed height. I basically raise mine until the nozzle is barely touching the bed then turn the screws the other way a fraction to leave just enough gap that the nozzle won't hit the bed. This leaves a nice flat 1st layer that won't budge till the bed has cooled right down after the print has finished.

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

15

Re: prints not sticking

pricecg44 wrote:

Ok so we have the newly calibrated platform that is the wrong height that would cause the prints to go wrong?

I presumed the printer determines the height of the printer and go from there.
Or is it just one corner and if the platform is off wrt the measured point it causes this.

I will try feeler gauges.

Your entire issue is that you are using the autocal. Stop ising it, it does not work correctly. The values it considers to be good are too high.

Buy a feeler gauge, pull out the .15 blade on it. I actually removed mine and leave it laying inside the printer. Now start one of the sample prints. Keep an eye on it as it warms up. You want to be there to turn off power once the head starts to move to do the print. Dont get hasty, when the bed reaches temp is will move down several mm. Don't turn off at this time. Wait for head to reach temp and to get over bed. The bed should move back up at the same time. If it is too high and the head actually hits it turn off power. Leave head and lower bed by screws till it is clear. Then start over. You want to cut power while the head is over the bed but not touching it. You then want to do the adjustments while the head and bed ate near operating temp. Dont wait for them to cool, but dont get burned either.

Once head is over bed and print is starting kill power. Now turn power back on and you should be able to move the head by grasping near the top and moving by hand to a point over the glass near one of screws. Adjust that screw so you can just feel the gauge dragging between the bed and nozzle. Repeat for each screw the one more time around the bed just to confirm as sometimes moving one side up will move the other down and likewise.  Once you do this, dont ever use autocal. Forget it even exist. You should only need to do this manual procedure about once every other week maybe even monthly depending on volume or if you hit or reall disturbe the bed by pushing down or lifting up to hard. You may then want to check it using this process, not the built in autcal.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

16

Re: prints not sticking

carl_m1968 wrote:
pricecg44 wrote:

Ok so we have the newly calibrated platform that is the wrong height that would cause the prints to go wrong?

I presumed the printer determines the height of the printer and go from there.
Or is it just one corner and if the platform is off wrt the measured point it causes this.

I will try feeler gauges.

Your entire issue is that you are using the autocal. Stop ising it, it does not work correctly. The values it considers to be good are too high.

Buy a feeler gauge, pull out the .15 blade on it. I actually removed mine and leave it laying inside the printer. Now start one of the sample prints. Keep an eye on it as it warms up. You want to be there to turn off power once the head starts to move to do the print. Dont get hasty, when the bed reaches temp is will move down several mm. Don't turn off at this time. Wait for head to reach temp and to get over bed. The bed should move back up at the same time. If it is too high and the head actually hits it turn off power. Leave head and lower bed by screws till it is clear. Then start over. You want to cut power while the head is over the bed but not touching it. You then want to do the adjustments while the head and bed ate near operating temp. Dont wait for them to cool, but dont get burned either.

Once head is over bed and print is starting kill power. Now turn power back on and you should be able to move the head by grasping near the top and moving by hand to a point over the glass near one of screws. Adjust that screw so you can just feel the gauge dragging between the bed and nozzle. Repeat for each screw the one more time around the bed just to confirm as sometimes moving one side up will move the other down and likewise.  Once you do this, dont ever use autocal. Forget it even exist. You should only need to do this manual procedure about once every other week maybe even monthly depending on volume or if you hit or reall disturbe the bed by pushing down or lifting up to hard. You may then want to check it using this process, not the built in autcal.

QFT.

Pricecg44,

The "squished" first layer is a good thing, as your print has more surface area on the edges. Using this method of squish, you almost dont need any adhesive except for very large prints with high infill. I don't bother to use anything unless I go over 50% infill and have a print that is likely to peel on corners or jutting out sections.

Repinci 1.0 + Repetier host

17 (edited by pricecg44 2015-01-23 23:31:41)

Re: prints not sticking

rockosmodlife wrote:

The "squished" first layer is a good thing

my original query was non-sticky. It may be good and thin but it comes off.

anyway the first right side purge u-turn looks usual but comes off. 

it has to be bed temp, but I  will test  the manual 0.15 offset theory

ive got the offline gcode for the mini shreader gear cover part here is the start lines:

; filename = 3dg.3w   gear cover for mini shreader
; print_time = 19109
; machine = daVinciF10
; material = default
; layer_height = 0.300
; fill_density = 0.90
; raft_layers = 0
; support_material = 1
; support_material_extruder = 1
; fill_density = 0.90
; support_density = 0.15
; shells = 2
; speed = 45
; total_layers = 137
; version = 14100714
; total_filament = 29459.57
; extruder_filament = 29459.57:0.00
; dimension = 120.00:80.00:41.15
; extruder = 1
G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107
;M104 S200 ; set temperature
;M109 S200 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
G92 E0
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G1 F1800.000 E-1.00000
G92 E0
G1 Z0.350 F2700.000
G1 X3.000 Y80.000
G1 F1800.000 E1.00000
G1 X5.000 Y80.000 F90.000 E1.29103

the extruder  temps are 200?? but commented out, so it goes  with the cartridge temp?
no bed temp.
I'll use the resetter code to read that.


Anyway before i go the repetier firmware replacement route is there a way to change the
offline gcode file and restart the print. Not in the lcd menu.

18 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-01-24 00:05:08)

Re: prints not sticking

pricecg44 wrote:
rockosmodlife wrote:

The "squished" first layer is a good thing

my original query was non-sticky. It may be good and thin but it comes off.

anyway the first right side purge u-turn looks usual but comes off. 

it has to be bed temp, but I  will test  the manual 0.15 offset theory

ive got the offline gcode for the mini shreader gear cover part here is the start lines:

; filename = 3dg.3w   gear cover for mini shreader
; print_time = 19109
; machine = daVinciF10
; material = default
; layer_height = 0.300
; fill_density = 0.90
; raft_layers = 0
; support_material = 1
; support_material_extruder = 1
; fill_density = 0.90
; support_density = 0.15
; shells = 2
; speed = 45
; total_layers = 137
; version = 14100714
; total_filament = 29459.57
; extruder_filament = 29459.57:0.00
; dimension = 120.00:80.00:41.15
; extruder = 1
G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107
;M104 S200 ; set temperature
;M109 S200 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
G92 E0
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G1 F1800.000 E-1.00000
G92 E0
G1 Z0.350 F2700.000
G1 X3.000 Y80.000
G1 F1800.000 E1.00000
G1 X5.000 Y80.000 F90.000 E1.29103

the extruder  temps are 200?? but commented out, so it goes  with the cartridge temp?
no bed temp.
I'll use the resetter code to read that.


Anyway before i go the repetier firmware replacement route is there a way to change the
offline gcode file and restart the print. Not in the lcd menu.


What is your actual monitored temp during this print?

Also on most of these printers the bed and some rods have slight warping. So what prints in part of the bed may not in another part. Another reason for the manual process.

Your bed temp should be 110. You can comment those lines and they will override the cartridge. In fact you edit them to be whatever value you want. The printer will just pause and wait till it reaches the specified temps if they are higher or lower than the cartridge temps. Those temps that are commented out however are only for the Extruder. You would need to add the code for the bed. Just above the commented lines add the line M190 S110 and it will set your bed to 110 and wait till it is reached.

Your start code would look something like this minus the XYZ garbage.

G28 ; Home all axes
M104 S220 ; Set nozzle temp, no wait. -gets things heated up at same time
M190 S110 ; Set bed temp, wait.
M109 S220 ; Set nozzle temp, wait.
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder
G1 E3 F1200 ; Prime extruder 3mm
G1 E2 F1200 ; Retract extruder 1mm
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

19 (edited by pricecg44 2015-01-24 01:26:41)

Re: prints not sticking

during the autocalab run i measured 80 on a thermocouple (2 below the lcd temp)
the bed heat up did go to 90 on the lcd for a print run.
that temp sticked on my many previous prints, but i wonder if it goes down now as the print runs. i'll measure this later.


but on the changing the offset print gcode file can we pause the print and change the file
(before the 3 min timeout) ,  or is it already in the buffer? i am about to wire up a wifi sd card to the micro card
wires  on the board, if that can be done and micro/normal sd cards have the same interface (no micro wifi cards locally).

I am asking this as i have not yet thrown out xyzware.exe

20 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-01-24 02:53:30)

Re: prints not sticking

pricecg44 wrote:

during the autocalab run i measured 80 on a thermocouple (2 below the lcd temp)
the bed heat up did go to 90 on the lcd for a print run.
that temp sticked on my many previous prints, but i wonder if it goes down now as the print runs. i'll measure this later.


but on the changing the offset print gcode file can we pause the print and change the file
(before the 3 min timeout) ,  or is it already in the buffer? i am about to wire up a wifi sd card to the micro card
wires  on the board, if that can be done and micro/normal sd cards have the same interface (no micro wifi cards locally).

I am asking this as i have not yet thrown out xyzware.exe


So let start from the beginning then as I am confused on your set up. What Da Vinci do you have? There are four different models right now. What software are you using? Based on the fact you can run autocal I know you are on stock firmware atleast.

Also have you performed the manual calibration procedure as I specified.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/8408/bed … beginners/

I have been printing for a long time and when I first started I was of the same mindset as most new users in that I could not figure out how a single layer not being the right thickness could impact a print so badly. I had all kinds of issues getting my first printer to print. After reading forum after forum after forum they all said the same thing. Make sure your bed is calibrated. SO I decided to do just that and to my surprise I was printing. That first layer meaning having the bed at the right height of .15 mm or less is so critical I cannot even stress it enough. Even at 90 if your bed is the right height parts should still stick. Many people only print at 80. But I find it to cause issue with curling so I always use 110.

Also what if any are you  using as a bed prep. Ar you using glue, tape, or just clean glass?

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

21 (edited by pricecg44 2015-01-24 06:53:08)

Re: prints not sticking

I am about to do the manual calab, after I play with trying to communicate via the Python serial script. I want to use what xyzware talks to transfer its output and start the print. Just got a feeler gauge. Man .15mm is thin! Is this truely the right distance from extruder to bed?

The second alternative is to wifi the SD card and I am making a micro SD card adapter connector to go out to a standard sized wifi card. This entails epoxy inch copper wires into the eight pad micro SD card interface.

22 (edited by pricecg44 2015-02-02 00:41:03)

Re: prints not sticking

Here's my peeled off first layers failure.

I realise now that these fluffier are due to the extruder being too close to the bed with the result that plastic gets placed on extruder body which subsequently sticks to other laid plastic causing it to flack and or pull off.

Post's attachments

image.jpg
image.jpg 2.08 mb, 1 downloads since 2015-01-24 

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23 (edited by scobo 2015-01-24 07:17:33)

Re: prints not sticking

pricecg44 wrote:

Just got a feeler gauge. Man .15mm is thin! Is this truely the right distance from extruder to bed?

Absolutely !
Like I said, I have my nozzle as close to the bed as possible without it touching the glass, the gap is probably slightly less than 0.15mm.

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

24 (edited by pricecg44 2015-01-24 08:29:27)

Re: prints not sticking

I have 1.0A da Vinci.  Using xyzware.  Really it's no good, could not get a collection of thingis placed on the one platform, yet there is a moving table thingi that has 17 parts that prints fine in xyzware.

Brought simplify3d but that messes up the prints, so waiting for a fix for the known non-working on latest Da Vinci version.

25 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-01-24 08:47:41)

Re: prints not sticking

pricecg44 wrote:

I have 1.0A da Vinci.  Using xyzware.  Really it's no good, could not get a collection of thingis placed on the one platform, yet there is a moving table thingi that has 17 parts that prints fine in xyzware.

Brought simplify3d but that messes up the prints, so waiting for a fix for the known non-working on latest Da Vinci version.

I tried printing at a bed temp of 90 and it just will not work. You will need to bring your temp up to 110 like I said and make sure your bed is adjusted which i understand you have done. If you edit your gcode so the bed temp is 190 and the head temp is 210 you should find things much better.

As you can see at the shown settings I can print on bare untreated glass with no lifting at all.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/solarenemy/20150124_024111.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/solarenemy/20150124_024229.jpg

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.