Cheers, attempting to talk to SD card via wifi.

But you have not addressed my query as to 190 versus 110 or was that just a typo in post #25?

If I keep saying 110 this and 110 that and the standard is 110 then obviously that was a typo.

But you have not addressed my query as to 190 versus 110 or was that just a typo in post #25?

how does setting bed temp at 190 get to be 110 realised?

Stock bed temps set by the cartridge is 90 and that is too cool for proper stick.

I am not sure where XYZ came up with their numbers but nearly every number temp, bed height, even steps per mm are way off and not any where near the norm. The bed should be set at 110 by gcode manipulation or through flashing firmware and using a real firmware like Repetier and then using Rep Host. You could also leave the stock firmware but switch Simplify 3D to give you control of temps.

Just Google proper bed temperature for ABS and you find the most common is 110 and sometimes 120. A setting of 90 is very rare as it is normally for PLA on glass.

It is the base part of the mini shreader that the author suggested to print solid infill.
So I did and it warped badly (bottom left not flat),and this for thick piece of plastic, not some skinny laid out leg, which I would expect to warp.  Or is this just temp strinkage?

Why is this? Expect it on large solid builds or is the bed got a temp differential at the front back y axis at the ends of the bed?

I cut the rest of the part in netfabb and printed that with 50 per cent infill and little warping occurred.

The image has somehow got inverted/reflected  vertically????

I encounter a lift rarely now that I let my glue build up from previous prints, I also cover the top hand-hole to help hold in the heat, and I run my bed temp at 100c with zerocart. I've also had my spool bind and it pulled it across the table  until it freed up, luckily it did damage anything..

If you raise your bed to 110 you should not even need to use glue.

carl_m1968 wrote:

scobo wrote:

Hmmm, I wonder if this depends on the filament your using.
I'm using 3rd party ABS and find my prints stick great with the default bed temp of 90°C.

That print in that pic is being done with XYZ natural ABS in a cartridge and it would not print at the 90C that the cartridge would have set it to.

The image of the failed to stick white filament, I have used numerous times on prints that cover a large part of the platform.

One event that could have an effect was a print where the filament jammed in the cartridge
And it jammed the moving extruder. Could that bend the cross bar?

I have had a jam in the past, I don't have any indication of bent rods and my prints still come out perfect after the event.

scobo wrote:

Hmmm, I wonder if this depends on the filament your using.
I'm using 3rd party ABS and find my prints stick great with the default bed temp of 90°C.

That print in that pic is being done with XYZ natural ABS in a cartridge and it would not print at the 90C that the cartridge would have set it to.

The image of the failed to stick white filament, I have used numerous times on prints that cover a large part of the platform.

One event that could have an effect was a print where the filament jammed in the cartridge
And it jammed the moving extruder. Could that bend the cross bar?

Edit. Impatient me. It takes some practice and single screw turning near measured point on the bed.

I will do three auto measurements to eliminate outliers (I think any looseness in the bed structure has this effect when it occasionally pops).
And then use a screw turning app to get turns. All this just to get in range, and then you can do the manual levelling method.

Hmmm, I wonder if this depends on the filament your using.
I'm using 3rd party ABS and find my prints stick great with the default bed temp of 90°C.

That print in that pic is being done with XYZ natural ABS in a cartridge and it would not print at the 90C that the cartridge would have set it to.

I have 1.0A da Vinci.  Using xyzware.  Really it's no good, could not get a collection of thingis placed on the one platform, yet there is a moving table thingi that has 17 parts that prints fine in xyzware.

Brought simplify3d but that messes up the prints, so waiting for a fix for the known non-working on latest Da Vinci version.

I tried printing at a bed temp of 90 and it just will not work. You will need to bring your temp up to 110 like I said and make sure your bed is adjusted which i understand you have done. If you edit your gcode so the bed temp is 190 and the head temp is 210 you should find things much better.

As you can see at the shown settings I can print on bare untreated glass with no lifting at all.

Brought simplify3d but that messes up the prints, so waiting for a fix for the known non-working on latest Da Vinci version.

Just got a feeler gauge. Man .15mm is thin! Is this truely the right distance from extruder to bed?

Absolutely !
Like I said, I have my nozzle as close to the bed as possible without it touching the glass, the gap is probably slightly less than 0.15mm.