people with glass bed mods (Page 1 of 2)

do you use anything to get prints to stick at start? like glue stick for ABS or do you only use PLA

I've been using an 8 x 8 mirror for 2 years now.  I use ABS slurry, just spritz some on glass with a pump sprayer, if it doesn't stick, spritz some more.  After several prints, just use a razor blade to remove excess and begin again.

+1
Once the bed temp gets down to <60c, I can usually just pick up the prints with no effort...the only time I have to pry is when I elect to use purple glue stick...using that, everything stays pretty stuck even at room temp!

I first tried a piece of picture frame glass but that didn't work out too well. After doing some reading I upgraded to piece of tempered glass that any glass store can order for you for about $15. I started out with clips on the corners but if you have some the film on your bed and then spray it with hair spray and lay down the glass it holds amazingly well. Others use several pieces of glass but 1 works good for me.

Finally I tried slurry, hairspray and even model glue to hold my prints down but in the end I started using the elmers dissapearing purple glue. Now it HAS to be the purple stuff. Just buy a 3 pack of the sticks that have a cap and you twist them for the glue to come out. Just lay down a fine layer of that when the bed is hot right before you print and works Spectacularly well! I also add a 5mm brim to all my prints and you can get under that with your scraper and it it will usually pop right off. If it doesnt you can start it with an Xacto knife.

OK when you attach the glass plate to aluminum bed with hair spray. how do you remove the glass plate to re-align/level the bed screws without busting the glass?

If the bed is level to start with it should be level afterwards.  Otherwise choose any method to turn them from the bottom.

only thing about these is the screws go through threaded zerks in aluminum bed with very little sticking through to grip and turn srew from underside and top/head of screws countersunk making this way dificult without using longer screws that would bump bottom when bed is down all the way. maybe if botlt had a pin hole at end to pin through knob or a lock nut so threaded zerks stay and dont get drilled out making bed less firm from moving causing miss aligned print.

I also use just hair spray to hold the glass down (thanks to WardJr). You only need a small amount as it's between two flat (ish) surfaces so I find to remove the glass I can just twist it from the base with minimal effort.
When I first started I went a bit mad with the spray and it took a fair bit of force to get it off but now a quick squirt and I know as the bed heats up the glass will be held without issue.
Also remember that when your leveling the bed you don't need to glue the glass down just lie it on the bed that way you can just lift it when needed to tweak the level. I check my level every so often but it remains pretty good even after removing the glass a far few times, my z offset wanders a bit though which I need to sort out at some point.

Personally I like just using hairspray as there is nothing pulling the glass out of level. I can image in some of the worst cases that a warped bed with binders pulling the glass down will only make a minor improvement. Letting the glass sit seems like it will lay flat, but I know we're talking about small amounts at this point.

Now you mention making a slot in the bottom of the leveling screws I'll be doing that as it's a great idea. I'll probably just just a needle file though.
Personally I want to get the bed screws protruding as little as possible to maximize the print volume, as I want to get at least 7x7x7 out of my original SD2.

I use standard window glass - got a huge sheet of it at home depot for about $5 and it is plenty big enough to cut several bed-sized pieces from, so even if it happens to crack, I can always just cut a new one (and I've been using the first one for a year or so now with no problems).

I also have been using the cheap hardware store glass 8"x8" that is 2.3mm's thick for over a year and a half with no issues.
And with a bed heater as big and fast as mine I was concerned with it cracking.  I bough several pieces and have never had a reason to unwrap them.

I use the more expensive locally cut glass to support local businesses, so I pay $5 for 6x6x1/8" mirror. I have clear glass at the same price and dimensions, but the mirror just feels less brittle.

Keep the kapton on if it still has a smooth surface. Generously spray Aqua Net Extra Super Hold on the bottom of the glass/mirror. Slap it on the aluminum bed without using any binders. Then cycle the heat on the bed a couple times and you will not need any binders. Seriously....you will need a putty knife to get it loose. This is perfect if you have a wapred/warping bed. It helps adhesion issues as well negates the warping of the aluminum bed.