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Topic: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

Well, I over temped my SD2 printer today and I think that might be the death of this motherboard.  It was the Sanguinololu.  See pics:

http://i.imgur.com/VbDtRxs.jpg

Blue wire sure is not looking good.  I tried to take it out to inspect it and the top red wire was loose and fine but the bottom blue is apparently fused and melted and I stripped it trying to get it out.

I was experimenting with cranking up my speed settings so I thought I would bump it up a couple degrees on the extruder too.  It over heated and cut out, but it has done this before.  It usually just results in a failed print and it comes right back on after restarting repetier but this time I'm getting nothing after restarting repetier, my computer, and after unplugging/ replugging the machine and letting it cool to ambient.  I guess I over temped it one too many times and it finally died.  Repetier does recognize that something is plugged in and if I start heating it up then close repetier, it does give me an error, so I'm hoping its not a total brick.

Any suggestions for saving this mother board?  Any other ideas what the problem might be?  If I knew someone who was good at soldering I might have them try to repair it, but I'm not sure if this is even possible.  A new motherboard is $179 from solidoodle... and that's going to be a tough call.  I want to keep printing but if I could get $200+ for this one in parts then I might just put that towards a new SD3 since I would like the larger bed.  (or drop the cash and get a lulzbot!?)

Thoughts?  Is there any way to save it or is it time to sell it for parts and upgrade?

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

New motherboards are like $60 on eBay, your stepper drivers are probably fine.

Edit: Actually, $45, $60 with the drivers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sanguinololu-Re … 3f1d8390e7

What's that tell you about Solidoodle's markup? smile

3 (edited by mdrVB6 2014-05-31 22:06:18)

Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

That would be great if I could pick it up for that price.  However, I have never tinkered with electronics like this and I don't really know what I'm looking for.  I have heard it is a printrboard.  Would I have to do something to get the solidoodle firmware onto it?  I would want to buy something that is pretty much plug and play and does not require me to do soldering, as I have never attempted this before.  I would be willing to learn but if I toast 3 in the process of learning how to solder then that doesn't help.

So what should I look for to ensure compatibility if I get it from eBay or another source?  Any instructions out there for doing this?  Heading to the wiki now...

Edit: just saw your edit where you linked to one on eBay, thanks!  I want to go this route but I need to find instructions.  It does not look like it has the same power connector as the stock one... looking into this.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

Also, if I do replace the motherboard, it seems to make sense to go for a printrboard or the "new solidoodle motherboard".  I do want to eventually upgrade to an E3D hotend and a better heated bed, so I want to be sure I can accomodate these.  I'm not sure if the sanguinololu can do that.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

Also, if I do replace the motherboard, it seems to make sense to go for a printrboard or the "new solidoodle motherboard".  I do want to eventually upgrade to an E3D hotend and a better heated bed, so I want to be sure I can accomodate these.  I'm not sure if the sanguinololu can do that.

Edit: the red light on the back of the board still comes on.  I still think it is a lost cause but just noting this.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

The board looks like it could be repaired. Would need new power connector and need to beef up the traces on the underside as well.  See http://www.soliforum.com/topic/168/sili … te/page/4/ Don't see you would need a new one.

SD2 - Glass Bed, Fans on PCB and Y motor, Custom enclosure
Slicer - Simplify3D

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

mdrVB6 wrote:

Also, if I do replace the motherboard, it seems to make sense to go for a printrboard or the "new solidoodle motherboard".  I do want to eventually upgrade to an E3D hotend and a better heated bed, so I want to be sure I can accomodate these.  I'm not sure if the sanguinololu can do that.

No. Sanguinololu > printrboard. If you blow a stepper driver on the printrboard, its non-replaceable.

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

+1 Sanguinololu

SD2 - Glass Bed, Fans on PCB and Y motor, Custom enclosure
Slicer - Simplify3D

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

+1 For the Sang.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

10 (edited by mdrVB6 2014-05-31 23:24:10)

Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

Okay, I'm convinced the sang is the way to go if I replace in kind.  However, I feel like I have heard of people replacing it with a rumba board or ramps or something like that?  What is this?  Sorry for the open question, but it is just referring to things I have heard mentioned in passing on these forums.  If there is an overview thread of these, I have not found it yet.

Thanks.

Edit: reading up on the RUMBA on the reprap wiki now.  It would be great if there were insturctions somewhere on how to get it setup and working with the solidoodle, but I am still looking...

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

wire10ga wrote:

The board looks like it could be repaired. Would need new power connector and need to beef up the traces on the underside as well.  See http://www.soliforum.com/topic/168/sili … te/page/4/ Don't see you would need a new one.

Agreed that it could be repaired.  I got the green part off and there is very minimal damage underneath it.  Unfortunately, I have never so much as picked up a soldering iron.  If I had a local friend with experience in this I would definitely have them help/ do it for me but I just don't have anyone like that and this is probably not the project to learn on.  About to shell out for a new one...

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

If you decide to go with the Rumba There are a few of us here that can help you out.  The thing is, the process is mostly the same for all boards so many users go with something a little cheaper.  I went with the Rumba because simply put,I wanted the best most robust board with plenty of room for upgrades.  There are many threads for boards like the Azteeg X3 also so take your pick and if you have questions ask before you buy.  When it comes to control boards you truly get what you pay for.  That is unless you go with a Stock Printerboard.  Then you get junk for the price of a Rumba.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

Okay, I spent the night doing some research and I'm on the fence about upgrading to the RUMBA (most likely) or replacing with a new sang.  The following are affecting my choices:

Sang.:
Pros: lower cost

Cons: 1) Looks like I will have to modify some of the wire connectors (power and heated bed connectors are not the same as what I currently have, although I should be able to crimp these with no soldering required).  2) The biggest con is that updating the firmware looks like a complete bitch from what I can read in the wiki.  I have no experience doing something like that.


RUMBA:
Pros: 1)seems to be an objectively better board.  2)Everyone says that uploading the firmware is easy on it, but I have yet to find any instructions on how to do this on the solidoodle 2.  Can anyone point me towards it?  3) The ability to add a better heated bed and a case heater if I eventually want to.

Cons: 1)Cost, but this is not a big deal for me.  It looks like reprap discount is the best (only?) place to get it.  2)Would need an adapter, so I will need to hire someone to print it for me (found one from Lawsy on thingiverse) or lay the board out on the table and hope I can print the adapter after I get it running.  3)It doesn't look like the connectors are the same for some of the components, including the power supply.  Hopefully I could find everything I need at radio shack so I don't have to order a $1 part online. 

Questions:
1) Can anyone confirm if I can get the RUMBA up and running without any soldering?  I can crimp but I have never soldered before.
2) Can someone point me towards instructions on how to install the solidoodle firmware on the RUMBA?  Hopefully it is way easier than on the sang.  I'm more than willing to pay the price difference to avoid all that hassle and get a better board.
3) Is it correct that I want the $119 version of the RUMBA board from reprap discount that includes the 6 drivers?  There is a $165 version that includes "drivers designed by Kliment" but I'm not sure what this means or why I would need it.

Here's a big thanks to everyone who has answered questions for me on this forum!  Wardjr- If I do go with the RUMBA, do you have any interest on working with me to write a contribution to the soliwiki?  I noticed there is nothing there yet for how to do this and other might appreciate it. 

If anyone is interested in making a little money by printing the RUMBA adapter (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:230214) and mailing it to me, please PM me.  I'm thinking its worth about $20 for your time, materials and shipping (to/ from US).  I will pay in paypal or bitcoin.

Thanks!

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

Don't worry about wiring as the rumba has both types (plugs and screw terminals). If your PSU has a barrel connector you will be able to just cut that off and use the screw terminals on the board.  As far as an adaptor goes you can hang the board from one screw until you come up with an adaptor or drill new holes.  The firmware is very easy you just need to download the correct driver and use arduino to flash it with newer firmware but let's deal with that when you get the board.  As far as the better drivers and the extra money... Spend the extra money.  You'll have 1/32 stepping for your extruder which will eliminate moire.
No matter what board you choose you'll need to be prepared to learn as you go.  There are plenty of us here to help.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

15

Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

Alrighty... it took me a couple days but the RUMBA board with updated drivers is ordered!  Might as well throw in an extra $10 for the express shipping so it should be here in about 4 days.  Looking forward to a lot of learning to get it setup!  (and all the future upgrades that are now possible)

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: Help! I think I fried my SD2 motherboard!

OK I am putting together some links to get you started.
First is the firmware https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta
Second a few quotes from Adrian

1. "Just need to set the motherboard number to 81 i think? its there in the configuration.h file.

You can load it up before its hooked up - but the rumba will need external power (it wont run just off usb by default) and just make sure to remove all the stepper-drive chips ; that ensures they dont get turned on with no motors attached by accident.. but otherwise you can hook everything else up and load up the firmware.

By default they ship with 'test' firmware pre-installed which will just from memory move the axis to the limit switches; so given there is no max-limit on the SD probably best to get it flashed up first before connecting"

2. "http://www.reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA#RUMBA_ … or_Windows

need to get the driver installed correctly first. Download that zip file, and if on windows 7 or 8, boot using the advanced options menu with driver signature checking disabled."

3.  http://www.soliforum.com/pun_pm/inbox/4289/
Let me know if this one doesn't show up.

That should give you enough to sort through till the board shows up.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions