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Topic: The importance of PID autotune - BEGINNER REQUIRED READING

Lately I have been having quite a few issues printing.  Banding, weak layers, Not cooling correctly, ETC.  I had put on a new E3D extruder back in january, and have loved it!  It did well for a while but I always did have an issue since all the temperatures went up.  I NEVER bothered to do a PID autotune once I had recieved it thinking I was fine.
Boy was I wrong! 

I just did one figuring it might help a bit and im already seeing a significant difference.  Im running at 210C with white PLA and I can already see a difference.  Even running at .3mm im getting smooth perimeter walls and as soon as the print is done (a small one) Ill know how strong the layers are.  Its also running at a considerable speed without ANY issues!  So to all of the fresh new faces out there, make sure you do a PID autotune whenever you use a new temperature!  It will save you hassle later on!

Here is a link on how to do it:
http://wiki.solidoodle.com/pid-autotune … luctuation

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Re: The importance of PID autotune - BEGINNER REQUIRED READING

Thank you for sharing. Could it be possible for you to print and take a picture of the following object? (It is small and it should take less than 10 minutes to print).

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126728

I am considering getting the E3D and I would like to see if it's worth.

Thank you,

CB

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Re: The importance of PID autotune - BEGINNER REQUIRED READING

CrazyBear wrote:

Thank you for sharing. Could it be possible for you to print and take a picture of the following object? (It is small and it should take less than 10 minutes to print).

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126728

I am considering getting the E3D and I would like to see if it's worth.

Thank you,

CB

If you are still running on a stock hotend, just go ahead and grab it.
You will be very happy and will wonder how you lived without it! smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: The importance of PID autotune - BEGINNER REQUIRED READING

OK,  I did a quick 5 minute print of this on an SD3 that has known X-Y calibration issues.  That is exactly what this design is supposed to point out.  This was with an E3D and the hot end performed perfectly.  What didn't perform perfectly was the printer itself (like I said "known calibration issues").  So what your asking for is not going to answer your question.  As far as quality goes ABS coming out of a .40 nozzle is going to yield similar results for a print like this regardless of the hot end used. 
What the E3d does offer is virtually no clogging and the ability to print with things like nylon or poly carb.  Now if this was a print with a lot of detail then you would notice a difference in quality.  In which case I would use a much smaller nozzle and slow things way down to achieve the highest detail possible.  Any way here's the picture you asked for.

http://i.imgur.com/LbU6CHs.jpg

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: The importance of PID autotune - BEGINNER REQUIRED READING

Thank you guys.

@3AZERATEToday: Yeap, still running stock hotend. I was checking the new E3D (V6) it's smaller than the V5 and easier to assemble.

@wardjr. Thanks for your time and ABS plastic used on the print.  I designed that thing to help me with my calibration. I needed some nice references and that helped me a lot. This is a pic of my print after a bunch of upgrades on my printer.

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Re: The importance of PID autotune - BEGINNER REQUIRED READING

No problem I only wish I could have used my good SD3 but I figured that wouldn't be a fair comparison.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions