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Topic: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Just got a E3D metal hotend and have yet to get it to extrude properly. I have to have temps at around 305 C for anything to extrude from the tip and in short order it clogs with in minutes. My last J-Head only needed around 230C for it to extrude ABS. I updated Marlin firmware to reach those temperatures. I also have the fan on for the E3D. Any help would be much appreciated

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

chevydan6 wrote:

Just got a E3D metal hotend and have yet to get it to extrude properly. I have to have temps at around 305 C for anything to extrude from the tip and in short order it clogs with in minutes. My last J-Head only needed around 230C for it to extrude ABS. I updated Marlin firmware to reach those temperatures. I also have the fan on for the E3D. Any help would be much appreciated

I would say something is wrong....maybe thermistor issues?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Did you change the temp sensor in the firmware also?  Might just be showing incorrect temp?


line 15  #define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 2  #define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 3  only if you have an SD3 
line 91  #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1  #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6  since the E3D uses a different thermistor 
l
ine 112  #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225  #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 310  since you can get to higher temperatures

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

I am using the stock SD3 thermistor to read temps

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

OK,  Thanks voids my idea...

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Something is wrong did you order from filastruder?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Yes I did order from Filistruder. I sent them an email and received the following email

Daniel,

I am just a distributor of the hotend - you need to contact E3D directly for support.

Tim

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Right - I am not as experienced as Sanjay in troubleshooting. I have not heard of or observed symptoms like this.

Did you tighten the nozzle properly (leave a gap between nozzle and block, tighten heatbreak, heat to 300C, tighten nozzle)?

9 (edited by adrian 2014-01-26 14:12:50)

Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Unless its made from an entirely different material.. one of the only things I can suggest is that you have an airgap in your thermistor install, or you've got a fractional short (between the thermistor legs, or against the alu block itself).

I also am assuming you've re-run the PID Tuning and set the correct PID values into EEPROM (not that that should cause  this fault condition as reported, but hey, its worth confirming right? )....

At 300+, if it was actually 300+, the ABS would be coming out a burnt brown/black molten mess and pretty much free flowing out the nozzle while popping and hissing....
So this leads one to believe its not *really* 300, and instead is simply what your board is reporting.

So then we are left with - faulty thermistor (they are after all, essentially consumables in a 3D print environment), a small short (did you use coductive heatsink paste or something perhaps?) or some other reason for the change in potential for the *reading* of the thermistor such as a whacky connection on the board, or a bad joint in the cable loom...

But in short, I can't see how any fault *in the E3D itself* would produce this condition - only electrical and board side faults.
Use the thermistor supplied with the E3D, re attach it, update the firmware to be Thermistor type 1, and report back would be my suggestion. And make sure its in the small hollow depression - not in the big straight through hole section..

As a minimum, this will also allow sanjay to know you are using his supplied thermistor (no point asking him to trouble shoot someone elses supplied equipment) and therefore help isolate the problem further... BUT.... Sanjay I don't believe can help terribly much, as for this to be an E3D fault, then the metal itself would have to be 2-3 times thicker than it should be or something else completely left of field...or there would have to be a mysterious gap that has appeared between the thermistor and the meltzone to make the thermistor be 300 and the meltzone <260 (in order for the ABS to not be clearly over its safe operating temp)...

I also could be entirely mistaken *shrug*... its been a long day.... smile

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

I would say basically the same thing as Adrian, either the thermistor is installed incorrectly or in the wrong place on the hotend; can you upload a pic of how you put this together?

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

OK ill purchase a few thermistor. Which ones work with the marlin firmware

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

chevydan6 wrote:

OK ill purchase a few thermistor. Which ones work with the marlin firmware

You should have received a new one with your E3D.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Yup! In a bag with ferrules. Very small, easy to miss.

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Installed the thermistor from E3d and was getting crazy temperatures. I tried like 3 different thermistors and none of the temperatures they gave were accurate. It seems that the printrboard is really finiky with what type of NTC 100k ohm sensor it uses. What is the stock thermistor used on solidoodle 3?

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Did you update the firmware?

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Yes i did with the latest firmware from Lawsy

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

What did you set the thermistor to?

18 (edited by spapadim 2014-02-07 13:38:24)

Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

I think Adrian covered pretty much everything. At this point, if your thermistor setting in Marlin is correct, it might help to post a picture (clearly showing how thermistor is attached -- although that still might not reveal everything, eg partial short).

Btw, when all heaters are off and printer at room temp, does the hotend temperature read same as the bed temp?  If it's an air gap, it probably should. If it's a persistent partial short, it probably shouldn't.

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

Note - Latest thermistors from E3D now use Type 5 - if its a tiny thermistor and fits in the smallest hole, its type 5. If it only fits in the bigger hole then its type 2.

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

this  http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder says type 6, which is correct?

SD3, E3D hotend,linear bearing on x/y axis',pillow block bearing on y conneting rod, ball bearngs on front y axis, fan on y stepper motor.

21 (edited by elmoret 2014-02-09 00:56:54)

Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=e … blog_id=19 says Type 5.

You could also read the configuration.h file:

// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)

Type 6 (meh) and type 1 would be ok for the old EPCOS style. Not sure why adrian said Type 2, as E3D uses the 104GT-2 (I'm looking at a pack of 200 of them right now...)

22 (edited by adrian 2014-02-09 00:58:21)

Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

satman49 wrote:

this  http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder says type 6, which is correct?

It would be wrong . I stated my facts from E3D... From the blog page explaining it over at e3d:
http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=e … blog_id=19

EPCOS NTC

#define TEMP_SENSOR_(0,1,2) 1
Semitec

#define TEMP_SENSOR_(0,1,2) 5

Semitec is the new one... EPCOS was the old one...
And no one should be using Type6 - its stated right there in the source code, its an *inaccurate* Type1... You should only be using Type 1 for any EPCOS derivative... And Type 5 as I stated originally.

23 (edited by adrian 2014-02-09 01:09:32)

Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

elmoret wrote:

Type 6 (meh) and type 1 would be ok for the old EPCOS style. Not sure why adrian said Type 2, as E3D uses the 104GT-2 (I'm looking at a pack of 200 of them right now...)

Type 2 was a typo for type 1 in one place in that post tongue And yes, type 6 is more than 'meh'... tongue
So to restate to avoid any confusion, Type 1 should be used (type 6 should be entirely disregarded ) for any EPCOS NTC's with the usual beta values, and Type 5 for the new E3D's (anything V5 or later) with the Semitec thermistor.

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

hey guys I'm having the same issue with my e3d hotend . i tried everything updated the firmware changed temp everything .i thought it was the bulldog extruder that was causing the issue .so i went back to the stock solidoodle extruder and and still the same issue the plastic slowly comes out . Also the thickness of the plastic coming out feels a little to small i feel like the Brass Nozzle hole might be off .i dont think its (0.4mm) it might be smaller ???i have no tool to measure such a small hole.  i need to email the guys from e3d . Has any one contacted the manufacture ?? Maybe its a bad batch of e3d kits ??

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Re: E3d metal hotend needs excessive tempuratures for ABS?

What are your speed settings form the extruder stepper? is the stepper skipping or the filament grinding at the drive gear?