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Topic: Wire Fell out of Hotend

I was unclogging my hotend (which needed me to take it fully apart) and one of the two green wires broke off that go into the little metal box on the hotend (NOT the white wire that seems to be a temp gauge, the other double green wire). It broke right at the metal box around the threaded tube that the filament goes into and the breake and is flush with it are so I can’t use electrical tape.

Is this something I can solder back together?

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

2 (edited by adrian 2013-10-15 12:53:26)

Re: Wire Fell out of Hotend

LdyMox wrote:

I was unclogging my hotend (which needed me to take it fully apart) and one of the two green wires broke off that go into the little metal box on the hotend (NOT the white wire that seems to be a temp gauge, the other double green wire). It broke right at the metal box around the threaded tube that the filament goes into and the breake and is flush with it are so I can’t use electrical tape.

Is this something I can solder back together?

nope. that sounds like its the resistor, and its failed at the body.

Solder, particularly leaded solder, will fail in a heart beat - it'll just melt out the moment you put power on due to the heat.
Lead-free solder, given its slightly higher melt point, will last fractionally longer... but will still fail.

New power resistor, and some ferrule (boot lace) crimps to connect the wires again to the new leads.

Solidoodle Supports official fix though - i imagine - will be to advise you to buy a whole new hot end. If you are US based, it might just be worth it time/effort wise.. *shrug*

3

Re: Wire Fell out of Hotend

Seems it is the Extruder Heat Core by looking at the pictures of the Spare Parts on the Solidoodle website. I think it will be better to pay the $15 for the new part then risking the soldering to fail time and time again.

Thanks for the help smile

http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?r … duct_id=81

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

4 (edited by adrian 2013-10-15 13:10:58)

Re: Wire Fell out of Hotend

LdyMox wrote:

Seems it is the Extruder Heat Core by looking at the pictures of the Spare Parts on the Solidoodle website. I think it will be better to pay the $15 for the new part then risking the soldering to fail time and time again.

Thanks for the help smile

http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?r … duct_id=81

It is indeed. And that will solve your problem - but be careful you don't damage the PEEK barrel in removing the old one - which is why Solidoodle Support will 'officially' recommend buying a complete hotend to risk having you buy the heater block and then snap the brass collar or damage threads on the PEEK.

Not to say it cannot be done - but I guess SD Support take the 'safer' road and will still advise you to get the 'complete unit' and thus avoid the issues I alluded to (despite cynics opinions, it's not to gouge more money from you, thats what the shipping's for wink, it's I believe genuinely due to their risk-adverse positioning and liability on customer repairs...).

Regardless - that is an appropriate 'fix' (getting just the cheaper heater block) wink

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Re: Wire Fell out of Hotend

I have already had to take the hotend fully apart 3 times to get out really nastly clogs, so its a bit scratched up and likley I will eventually need a new hotend; For now I will try the cheeper method.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA