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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Raising the Maximum extruder temp.
I am browsing through the firmware for the Solidoodle 3 and I am trying to find the code that tells the extruder to shut off at a certain temperature. I have recently went for a cartridge style heater, and I would like to print with some filiment that needs to be somewhere around 230C or somewhere higher than that. Any suggestions or hints?
It's in Configuration.h. Line 109 in the copy I have.
// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225 //{SD Patch}
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 110 //{SD Patch}
Thank you very much! I probably would have been looking for a long time. Also, does anyone know what the limit is on the hot end? Will 275c kill it?
Ummmm... you know, you will melt your PEEK at that temperature.
The Solidoodle 'temperature' is 30-35°C lower than it actually is because of where they have placed the Thermistor - nothing to do with the heater cartridge vs resistor - all that effects is the heatup time.
The issue is where the thermistor is placed on a Solidoodle OEM Hotend. 195°C is really 225-230°C... running it at 230°C is actually 260°-265°C which will melt your PEEK barrel - it is not capable of withstanding greater than 255°C.... . 230°C as a quoted tempreature from a filament supplier is then actually 200°C on teh solidoodle - it has nothing to do with the heater cartridge or a resistor. So you *are* printing right now at 230°C... when it says 195-200° its really 225-230°C....
Unless you have replaced *the entire* hot-end and have a thermistor now located right next to the heater, then changing any of those tempreatures is a really bad idea ... you simply need to set your temp to 200° to get 230° that the manufacturer refers to.
Where you read on this site of people changing max temperatures - they are either using a J-Head which has the thermistor "in the right place" so reads the correct temperature - or they have an E3D All-Metal Hotend. Using 260°C (230°C on a standard Solidoodle3 head) will simply cause your PEEK to melt and deform and the whole thing to fail catastrophically.
So do not change this setting unless you fully understand what the consequences are and you have replaced your entire hotend with a new located thermistor and/or an all-metal body....
And yes - your hotend will fail catastrophically at 275°C - as thats actually 305+° and now into the territory of making potentially noxious gasses (ABS starts putting out really unhealthy fumes from 260°... besides the fact your PEEK barrel will melt at 255°C)
The temperature difference (the 30°C) is caused by the thermister being located on the wrong side of the hot end? This makes a lot of sense. I happen to have some high temperature ABS plastic that I would like to use, but its' working temp is around 250. So if I set the SD3 to 220, i should replace the PEEK with a metal version. Thank you for your help!
i thought PEEK had a melting point of 343°C?? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK
In a tech data sheet for a material, the melting point is when it is liquified. So that temp is to obtain liquid PEEK 
In a plastics sense, the first figure of importance is the Glass Transition temp... somewhere after this temp but long before the melting point (usually) the substance will become amorphous before liquifying at its melt point... in this Glass to Melt point range it will be mushy.. just like when we are extruding ABS its 'best printing temp' exists past its Glass Transition Temp but before it gets nasty and noxious and very liquidy....
Your PEEK becomes soft enough to no longer retain its shape and hold in your barrel etc etc at temps >255.
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