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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Fastest Solidoodle in the west (or east...)
What are the print speeds/settings you guys use? I've been using this as highspeed:
Maximum Feedrates: 500/500/5/45 (X/Y/Z/E)
Maximum Acceleration: 9000 9000 100 10000
Maximum X-Y Jerk: 20
Perimeters: 150mm/s
Infill: 175mm/s
Travel: 175mm/s
Filament: MG94 made on a Filastruder, printed at 200C.
I doubt it actually gets to those speeds on most moves, though.
You guys?
How are your corners at those speeds? I get pretty bad overshoot without going too fast, but I haven't played around with the acceleration, either.
About 500 microns of overshoot. Visible to the naked eye from less than 3-4 feet. Not a big deal for parts like Filastruder hoppers, though 
I'd love to print even faster. It seems like I can flow the filament fast enough, but without more agressive acceleration values I won't hit those speeds.
I have always wondered.. are the motors standard sizes? would it be possible to switch them out for stronger versions, and if so would it even make a difference?
I have always wondered.. are the motors standard sizes? would it be possible to switch them out for stronger versions, and if so would it even make a difference?
Yes, and yes.
The Y, Z, and extruder are Nema 17s.
The X is a Nema 14.
The problem is overshoot, which is a product of the Solidoodle's stiffness.
The limit isn't the motors, they can move plenty fast. The limiting factor is how fast you can melt and extrude the filament. That depends on the melt flow of the plastic, temperature, and the design of the nozzle. I think the J-Head can probably extrude faster than the Solidoodle's Makergear style nozzle, due to it's shorter melt zone.
Quality at those speeds is affected by rigidity. If there is any flex or wiggle at the nozzle, it will overshoot at fast changes in direction. The frame of the Solidoodle is very rigid. However there is wiggle between the motor and the X carriage, which the zip tie attempts to eliminate. There is also vertical wiggle between the teflon bushing and the back X rod, vertical wiggle between the teflon bushing and the right Y rod, and the right Y carriage can rotate front to back depending on how tight the belts are. You can try to tighten up both of the teflon bushings, but they will loosen again over time.
You can stabilize the right Y carriage by tightening the belts, but that increases backlash and makes it harder for the Y axis to move. That can be fixed by replacing the bushings at the back, and the idler pulleys in the front with bearings.
The limit isn't the motors, they can move plenty fast. The limiting factor is how fast you can melt and extrude the filament.
Agreed, except when acceleration is the limiting factor. On small moves, you can't get up to speed because acceleration doesn't let you - far before you reach extrusion speed limitations.
Ian - do you have any numbers to contribute in terms of max speeds you've done on the J-head or Solidoodle OEM?
I haven't tried high speed with the J-head, but I couldn't go above about 180 without skipping steps with the OEM extruder. I also didn't try it wil clear ABS. The clear filaments melt more easily so could probably print faster.
I have the J-Head, and have been playing around with speeds for a while. The limiting factor for me is nothing to do with the movement (as Ian noted), but more of the extruder performance. When I get above about 120mm/s, I start to see small "spottiness" in the perimeters and some small semi-gaps in the infill. I am not sure exactly what causes this. It seems consistent with whatever number of perimeters, and is mostly not a random feature - certain parts of the print, such as near corners, suffer more.
Acceleration aside, it is worthwhile to just test the quality of the sidewalls of a rectangular block printed at high speeds. Then you are purely considering the extruder performance. I use the attached STL file (a block perforated with 1/4" holes for an optical table) for this purpose. Printing at low infill, like 0.15, is a better challenge since it is more difficult to form bonds in the infill. If the extrusion is poor quality, you will see a bunch of strands sticking up.
Of course, it can be scaled down since it's way too big for a test as it is.
It amazes me how much shake there is when mines chugging away, I couldn't decide if bolting the sd3 down would improve print or actually make it worse. Change of direction actually rattles my printer around the table and i'm only printing (when it was printing at around 120 when it does print)
What immediately struck me was how heavy the print head set up is. I presume changing to a bowden extruder should decrease weight and increase acceleration and probably reduce overshoot. The math is beyond me, but I am pretty sure accelleration is directly related to mass / power ratio? I speculate even small weight changes would make a big accelleration change.
I presume some clever coder can actually get the software to count the steps taken on a given movement.
If you think gun recoil elemination or camera shake reduction technologies I wonder when these will be introduced to aid speed.
Just food for thought, I still can't get mine to print more then a bloody cube at the moment! Lol
I would love to see a 30 second video of how fast your printers are moving to compare?
I'm with Ian on this one, its the lack of heat performance of the hot end that limits speed for me. In fact, I had to wrap my hot end with insulation (mostly on the top of it) to prevent my 25mm side fan from cooling it below 165c! Getting the resistor (or heat cartridge replacement) closer to tip would help here, and so too would dual heating elements.
In the photo you can see my insulated hot tip, and 25mm side fan mounted to my extruder. (The fan dangling to the left is my 30mm front fan used for cooling filament - on all the time for Pla, and on for only overhangs when printing Abs)
Saying the extruder is the limit is fine and good, but how about some data - max speeds, temperature, filaments. Also, extrusion speed might be the limit on long parts, but acceleration becomes the limiting factor on shorter moves.
What I typically do for low res parts is set it to fly at 100mm/sec in slicer for perimeters, 125 infill, and then throttle up with multiplier in rh manual control until it starts skipping, usually at about 125 to 150 %. My only point jumping into this thread is that the plastic spits and sputters before my machine shakes itself to death! The thing with our machines (in case you haven't figured it out yet) is that there is a lot of variability from machine to machine. Your machine is dialed in elmoret! I just know that my hot end heat can't even keep up with my speed stated above, let alone yours. When I mod my new hot end I will use dual heaters. Then, elmoret, the race is on!!
I keep my heat at 195 for high res low speed parts, and 205 for low res high speed, cause I know all the filament driving through will cool it down.
Then, elmoret, the race is on!!
Are you at 100% duty cycle on your heater in Repetier-Host?
I have no idea!!! What is the default? That's what mine is probably set to.I will check when I get home. On my mobile right now. Is yours set to 100? What is this? Everyday I learn some important thing about printing 3d!
I have no idea!!! What is the default? That's what mine is probably set to.I will check when I get home. On my mobile right now. Is yours set to 100? What is this? Everyday I learn some important thing about printing 3d!
In the temperature curve tab, at the bottom there's a plot. The green portion is what percent of the time the heater is on. Unless it's maxing out, dual heaters won't help you. Running hotter would, since Q=f(dT)
Thanks Elmoret, very curious now, will check soon and post back.
Elmoret, it spikes to 100% while it heats up to 200, then goes back down to about 75 to 80%. I'll monitor it during my next print to see what it does then.
Elmoret, it spikes to 100% while it heats up to 200, then goes back down to about 75 to 80%. I'll monitor it during my next print to see what it does then.
Sounds about right. That means that wattage isn't your issue, it's temperature. Basically, your PEEK will melt before you can get the hot end hot enough to melt the plastic at a high flowrate.
QU-BD's new extruder does 500mm/s max. To get that fast, they run nozzle temps over 300C. With ABS. Yeah...
Wow. So where were we in our discussion of fail safe devices for hot ends??
Anyone else have hard numbers? Highest mm/sec without skipping?
Anyone else have hard numbers? Highest mm/sec without skipping?
I need my e3d to show up so I can push temps.
Anyone else have hard numbers? Highest mm/sec without skipping?
We should also standardize the layer height and extrusion width. I am assuming 0.3mm / 0.42mm for these parameters?
elmoret wrote:Anyone else have hard numbers? Highest mm/sec without skipping?
We should also standardize the layer height and extrusion width. I am assuming 0.3mm / 0.42mm for these parameters?
For me, yes.
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