1 Topic by Rex3D

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Topic: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

Hi everyone, i know that this topic has been discussed before but i only posted this because i have read and attempted to apply  the advice given on these issues with no success. Hopefully others in my situation may benefit from input.

First the facts of my situation:

Printer: 3rd Gen 'Solidoodle 3'

Filament: ABS 1.75mm (red/black/natural)

Case: Acrylic perspex enclosure, very similar to 'Riddick' design

Heater bed: working / heats to 92C tops

Printer surface: kapton removed / use 4mm glass instead

Software: Repetier Windows V0.82b / Slc3r

-------------------------------------------------------

What i have tried:

- Z-axis to extruder distance 'metro-card check' (just clumped at that distance)

- Hairspray on Kapton before removal and on Glass (did not stop warping /peeling off, can't even get the first layer to stick)

- Printed only when temperatures reached 195C-extruder and 92C-bed (still clumps and won't stick)

- I followed the Solidoodle setup guide to the 'T' but nothing has worked for me thus far.

------------------------------------------------------

I feel i have exhausted hardware solutions at this point and call on the kindness of those who have succeeded for advice on what to do next.

I guess it would be very helpful if others who use the same filament, print bed, and have an enclosure could give me a list of their print settings and slic3r settings 'printscreen' would be greatly appreciated. Of course all other advice is most welcome.

Cheers. smile

2 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

Rex3D wrote:

Hi everyone, i know that this topic has been discussed before but i only posted this because i have read and attempted to apply  the advice given on these issues with no success. Hopefully others in my situation may benefit from input.

First the facts of my situation:

Printer: 3rd Gen 'Solidoodle 3'

Filament: ABS 1.75mm (red/black/natural)

Case: Acrylic perspex enclosure, very similar to 'Riddick' design

Heater bed: working / heats to 92C tops

Printer surface: kapton removed / use 4mm glass instead

Software: Repetier Windows V0.82b / Slc3r

-------------------------------------------------------

What i have tried:

- Z-axis to extruder distance 'metro-card check' (just clumped at that distance)

- Hairspray on Kapton before removal and on Glass (did not stop warping /peeling off, can't even get the first layer to stick)

- Printed only when temperatures reached 195C-extruder and 92C-bed (still clumps and won't stick)

- I followed the Solidoodle setup guide to the 'T' but nothing has worked for me thus far.

------------------------------------------------------

I feel i have exhausted hardware solutions at this point and call on the kindness of those who have succeeded for advice on what to do next.

I guess it would be very helpful if others who use the same filament, print bed, and have an enclosure could give me a list of their print settings and slic3r settings 'printscreen' would be greatly appreciated. Of course all other advice is most welcome.

Cheers. smile

I have never seen such a clear concise "trouble ticket" post on a forum ever. I think we should make a form to generate this type of trouble ticket. Wow.

As far as your problem goes, I added my .3 mm slic3r ini file (my safety file when all others fail). You will need to change the nozzle diameter since I am using a .4mm nozzle at the moment. I know you have spaced the extruder but you might want to try adjusting the z-screw to bring the bed up a little more. Maybe this will cause the ABS to grip better.

Stupid question but, did you clean the glass with glass cleaner before using it? you might have some misc. oils on it.

Keep us informed on what works for you and what doesn't. Others with the same problem will be interested.

Post's attachments

2n2r5_config.ini 3.14 kb, 14 downloads since 2013-05-30 

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SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

3 Reply by ronsii

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

One other question... where is the filament from?

And if you could post some pics of what it is doing that would be great smile you will have to get 10 posts before the forum will let you attach pics but you can hide url's in the post if you upload some pics to a pic site.

4 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

The metro card thing is just for leveling the bed.  The distance to the extruder is based on what the first layer looks like, and how squished it is- http://wiki.solidoodle.com/first-layers … e-z-offset

Software things you can try are turning up the first layer extrusion width to 150%-200% (similar to squishing with the Z tab), running the first layer hotter, and running it slower.

5 Reply by Rex3D

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

Thank you for everyone's advice thus far, i will keep everyone updated on my findings.

reply to: 2n2r5

Thanks for the SLIC3R config.ini file. *NOTE: for those who don't know how to execute the .ini file in SLIC3R:

file > Load config... > select 2n2r5_config.ini > Open

I have changed the nozzle diametre to 0.35 in SLIC3R and have thoroughly wiped down my glass with Windex. I am assuming that the settings are suitable for ABS 1.75mm. I am about to test your settings out and will post results and images or image links shortly. smile

-----------------------------------------------------------------

reply to: ronsii

I am using all Solidoodle supplied ABS 1.75mm filament which i ordered with my printer. urls are a good idea, i shall do that if it takes too long for 10 posts.

---------------------------------------------------------------

reply to: Ian Johnson

Thankyou for the clarification. I did the 'z-tab home adjustment', with the metro card height. I think i got the two mixed up. Because i could not test my bed level because the filament would not stick to the bed in the first place. I have just adjusted the z-tab home distance to a 'metrocard' distance between the bed and the extruder.

I was wondering if there is a difference between the 'z-tab home' distance and the 'printing distance' between the bed and nozzle? -----------> because the 'printing distance' seems to be further away than that of a 'z-tab home' distance.

6 Reply by Rex3D

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

to: Ian Johnson

Ian Johnson QUOTE: "Software things you can try are turning up the first layer extrusion width to 150%-200% (similar to squishing with the Z tab), running the first layer hotter, and running it slower."

Sorry for my noob question Ian, but where on Repetier/SLIC3R to i adjust the extrusion width? I just want to be absolutely certain so i don't mess up 2n2r5's settings for me. Also given my printer specs do you think his settings are suitable for my situation? Not doubting 2n2r5, just want a second opinion.

Cheers.

7 Reply by Rex3D

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

7

8 Reply by Rex3D

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

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9 Reply by Rex3D

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

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10 Reply by Rex3D

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

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11 Reply by Rex3D

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

So I have attempted to print using 2n2r5's SLIC3R settings and taken Ian's advice and adjusted the z-tab offset according to the video: http://wiki.solidoodle.com/first-layers … e-z-offset

These are my results to date:

I am still unable to get the filament to stick to the print-bed with:
- extruder temperatures of 195-205C
- print_bed temperatures of 92-93C
- immaculate clean glass
- with enclosure (link below to image of it)

I have also posted links to images of:
- my z-tab offset from extruder to bed just before the job began
- my z-tab offset from extruder to bed when it started to clump

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18 … tance.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/clumpc.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69 … rcase.jpg/


Any advice on what to do next would be much appreciated. Also comments on whether i should follow this up with the manufacturer or not? And if so which way is the best way recommended? Cheers

12 Reply by 2n2r5 (edited by 2n2r5 2013-06-04 18:33:48)

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

Rex3D wrote:

to: Ian Johnson

Ian Johnson QUOTE: "Software things you can try are turning up the first layer extrusion width to 150%-200% (similar to squishing with the Z tab), running the first layer hotter, and running it slower."

Sorry for my noob question Ian, but where on Repetier/SLIC3R to i adjust the extrusion width? I just want to be absolutely certain so i don't mess up 2n2r5's settings for me. Also given my printer specs do you think his settings are suitable for my situation? Not doubting 2n2r5, just want a second opinion.

Cheers.

Rex. Check the extrusion temps. I have a new hot end and I bumped mine well above normal temps. I think I sent you my default for the solidoodle hot end.

Edit: looks like you said you already did this.

Don't worry about second guessing me. It won't hurt my feelings one bit. You will find a lot of people will have advice and sometimes what works for you is completely different from what works for others.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

13 Reply by mr_tim34

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

I noticed you said you're cleaning your glass with Windex, no problem with that, but are you spraying it with hairspray after you clean it? I'm not sure how well the ABS sticks to bare glass...

TiM

14 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

The glass should still have hairspray on it, the gunkier the better.  I never clean my glass, I feel that the more it gets "seasoned" with coats of hairspray and abs residue from previous prints, the better.

The settings for extrusion width are under Advanced in the print settings tab.  Also look under Speed of course for first layer speed.  You can also start with a lot of squish by setting the Z tab so that the bed touches the nozzle.  Keep hitting home and adjusting the screw up until you see the hotend move slightly when the bed hits home at stops. Then turn the screw back down maybe a quarter turn.  This should pretty much smear the plastic onto the bed.  If that sticks, then add another quarter turn until the layer looks flattened, but no quite smeared.

If that doesn't work, then try ABS glue.  Extrude a bunch of plastic into air and dissolve the threads into a little acetone.  The mix should be pretty thin, but with enough plastic that after you paint it onto the glass you can see a film of ABS left behind.

15 Reply by Krythis

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

Hairspray never worked well for me either. I didn't try the scentless Aquanet everyone uses, instead I went right to ABS glue and it worked wonders.

E3D-v4 Hotend, MK5 carriage with round plastic wire conduit , 3/16" tempered glass,  Well nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, PowerEdge 2650 500W PS, QU-BD heated bed, circuit board fan, hinged plexiglass enclosure with plastic tray top. Other than that mostly stock SD3

16 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

Krythis wrote:

Hairspray never worked well for me either. I didn't try the scentless Aquanet everyone uses, instead I went right to ABS glue and it worked wonders.

I didn't even realize that I use aqua net until you mentioned something. I think I just bought a value size extra hold hair spray. ha... what are the chances?

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

17 Reply by ecka

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Re: extrusion clumps + sliding filament

hi Rex3D, I had similar problem before, and I turn to PLA, works pretty well for me.