1 Topic by pirvan (edited by pirvan 2013-04-11 14:34:08)

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Topic: Removing the raft from the model

I tried printing a model using a cross-hatch/grid type raft, and it certainly stickswell to the print platform, but how do you remove it from your model, it seems to stick just as well to the back of it?

I'm trying to print "The Heavy" character from Team Fortress.  I decided to split the model down the middle and print it in two halves, then glue it.

The piece on the left was the first try, and I abandoned it when it was doing some weird things and melting some areas inside the arms and legs.  But never the less, after I removed it from the printer, I then tried to remove the raft.  It's impossible, it's a permanent part of the piece.

So, how do you get rid of it?  Or can you?  I like the idea of the raft as it builds a platform for your models, and any stray pieces of filament which you usually get on the first pass, are gone by the time it starts on the actual part.

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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
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2 Reply by ysb

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Re: Removing the raft from the model

you don't need a raft for a model like that...

use raft only when you need to improve the size of the sticking zone (for a small part with overhang for example..  diamond that you want to print on the tip)

or for a particular problem of sticking ( part that warp...) or when you use Support. Sometimes support need extra strenght to stay in place

to remove raft, use a good exacto and lot of patience.. no miracle..

you can use Brim instead for a light raft sort of..

when i use raft, i let it in place and cut what i don't want to keep...

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3 Reply by Ecarots

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Re: Removing the raft from the model

When I need to remove the raft on the back I usel the KISS method (otherwise I get confused LOL). I have a piece of sandpaper secured to a flat surface ithe rubber cement (or some other simular adhesive). The holding the piece carefully by the front I sand the raft off until I reach the desired level.

4 Reply by pirvan

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Re: Removing the raft from the model

Here is the finished print. 

The model was split in half (front and back), then the 2 halves were sliced using KiSSlicer.  The layer thickness is .15mm, and the infill was set to 10% with a honeycomb pattern.  I didn't use a raft, per se, rather a simple skirt.  Also the way the cut worked, it didn't need any support at all.

The front half was printed yesterday, the back today, and in between , the front curled up ever so slightly, to where it will need clamps to hold the model together while it's being glued.

The picture below is of the model loosely held together with a bit of glue.  It's only 3.5" tall, and weighs 12.75 grams (.45oz).

Next test will be the same model, but sliced in the middle top and bottom, so the grain will run in the other direction.  We'll see what the difference in output quality is.

http://digistealth.com/Public/Hosted/Team_Fortress_The_Heavy.jpg

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

5 Reply by Brad

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Re: Removing the raft from the model

This is pretty awesome!

Sandvich make me stroonngg!

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6 Reply by Krythis

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Re: Removing the raft from the model

Nice, where's Natasha

E3D-v4 Hotend, MK5 carriage with round plastic wire conduit , 3/16" tempered glass,  Well nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, PowerEdge 2650 500W PS, QU-BD heated bed, circuit board fan, hinged plexiglass enclosure with plastic tray top. Other than that mostly stock SD3

7 Reply by pirvan

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Re: Removing the raft from the model

Krythis wrote:

Nice, where's Natasha

Working on getting a model of Sasha.  Why bother with Natascha, it's a weaker gun.  We want big, heavy gun !!

Anyway, at the moment I' trying to print the Demoman.  This time around, I cut the model at the waist so I'm printing, the 2 halve upright.  One thing I noticed is how messy the infill is.

Once again I'm using KiSSlicer to generate the GCode, and it look fine, but it's so thin, that the heat from the extruder head mangles it up as it goes over it.  The setting is for 10% infill with cross-hatch pattern.  Layer thickness is .15mm, and the extrusion with (and infill extrusion with) are .20mm.   

The question is, should I even bother with Internal support for these models?  They are intended s static models, and don't need to be structurally strong.

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To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.