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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Power Supply wiring
I just received my SD3 and the power supply doesn't work. I thought I would replace it with a higher wattage ATX power supply but I do not know what the polarity is on the Adrino board at the green plug. I know it is 12VDC but I do not know which is positive and which is negative. The wires coming from the power supply are blue and orange. Can anyone help?
Blue wire is on the bottom connection of the sanguinololu board and is ground (-)
I have also just received my SD3 and the power supply is dead. Very disappointed after all this wait... Looks like they had a bad batch of power supplies, but you would expect that they have tested it. True we have 240V here and not 110V.
I have now connected an ATX power supply as per above and the lights and fan finally came on. However, the printer does not respond to any movement etc commands...
Check your Com port and Baud rate. When you install the FTDI drivers, it assigns the com port to an available port. The standard baud rate is 250,000 but some people have had to reduce this to connect.
I have also just received my SD3 and the power supply is dead. Very disappointed after all this wait... Looks like they had a bad batch of power supplies, but you would expect that they have tested it. True we have 240V here and not 110V.
They do test every printer... but I don't know if it is tested with the power supply it comes with ... I would think that they use the power supply that arrives with the printer as it is hardwired to it. Like you say it is 240 there so it may be the power supply is not liking the 240 input since it was more than likely tested with 120 at the factory... SD Support might want to think about mentioning this to whomever is in charge of testing.
Riddick wrote:I have also just received my SD3 and the power supply is dead. Very disappointed after all this wait... Looks like they had a bad batch of power supplies, but you would expect that they have tested it. True we have 240V here and not 110V.
They do test every printer... but I don't know if it is tested with the power supply it comes with ... I would think that they use the power supply that arrives with the printer as it is hardwired to it. Like you say it is 240 there so it may be the power supply is not liking the 240 input since it was more than likely tested with 120 at the factory... SD Support might want to think about mentioning this to whomever is in charge of testing.
Those who feel that they are qualified may send us pictures of power supply ICs (This can be risky, so don't do it if you do not know what you are doing.) Anything we can learn about faulty parts from the manufacturer will help.
I have also just received my SD3 and the power supply is dead. Very disappointed after all this wait... Looks like they had a bad batch of power supplies, but you would expect that they have tested it. True we have 240V here and not 110V.
Solidoodle 3 can run on 240v
Thanks for everyone. We have now sorted the movement issue, we just had to change to a COM port instead of the virtual driver.
I know the power supply SHOULD work from 240, I just made the comment to say that maybe they tested it but with 110V. I am trying to assume that they did test the power supply and not used the power supply on their test bed.
Once I get a replacement power supply and if I do not have to send this one back, I am happy to open it up and send in what we find.
I think I may have found the problem and the solution to the rash of defective power supplies.
Check my post on the Doodle stopped working to see what the problem and solutions are.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2026/sol … d-working/
You are a genius! I did not want to open up my power supply because I thought that I will lose the warranty but given your pictures, I thought it is worthwhile to have a look at it. I am in Australia so getting a new power supply here would take a long time.
Anyway, I opened it up and have the same problem as you! The AC connector has simply fallen off. I am going to resolder it and see if it starts working.
Thanks again!
You are a genius! I did not want to open up my power supply because I thought that I will lose the warranty but given your pictures, I thought it is worthwhile to have a look at it. I am in Australia so getting a new power supply here would take a long time.
Anyway, I opened it up and have the same problem as you! The AC connector has simply fallen off. I am going to resolder it and see if it starts working.
Thanks again!
You're welcome, and thanks for the kind words.
I think that the entire batch of power supplies that Solidoodle bought from their Chinese supplier will have this problem, and while some people may not see this problem immediately, it will surface sooner or later.
It would be a good idea for Solidoodle to check their latest batch of power supplies and get a handle on it immediately before this get out of hand.
I posted into Pirvan's thread about how I got my power supply working again. (I can't seem to be able to include links in my post)
Finally with the factory power supply we can now manage to heat the bed to 95 degrees. My ATX power supply struggled to get to 85!
Riddick wrote:You are a genius! I did not want to open up my power supply because I thought that I will lose the warranty but given your pictures, I thought it is worthwhile to have a look at it. I am in Australia so getting a new power supply here would take a long time.
Anyway, I opened it up and have the same problem as you! The AC connector has simply fallen off. I am going to resolder it and see if it starts working.
Thanks again!
You're welcome, and thanks for the kind words.
I think that the entire batch of power supplies that Solidoodle bought from their Chinese supplier will have this problem, and while some people may not see this problem immediately, it will surface sooner or later.
It would be a good idea for Solidoodle to check their latest batch of power supplies and get a handle on it immediately before this get out of hand.
Solidoodle is constantly impressed with its users. Thanks for being thorough!
We've already had a word with our supplier.
Just to be clear:
Anyone with the affected power supplies is free to request a replacement.
We are also willing to provide repair instructions to qualified individuals. Power is dangerous folks.
We have already identified the crop of affected power supplies are removing them from our output.
Just to add to the conversation, had my one week old power supply fail on my version 3. Opened the power supply up, and found the exact same problem. The power board within the power supply is mounted 1/8 an inch too high. The case puts strain on the connector pulling the pins from the solder connection. When I opened the power supply the connector was simply hanging from the ground wire. I've resoldered it, but I think as the solder gets warm from current, while not liquid, will distort enough to pull free from the board again. I even noticed that board had bent from the stress.
I tried not to tighten up the screws too much to reduce the stress, however that leaves a slight space between the connecter and the body of the case. Not a good idea with 120 volts floating around about a 1/4 of an inch away.
May request a new power supply just to be safe. Assuming the problem has been fixed in a new batch.
Hey guys, maybe a bit of copper to drop the connection down 1/8th of an inch so everything lines up correctly?
Just to add to the conversation, had my one week old power supply fail on my version 3. Opened the power supply up, and found the exact same problem. The power board within the power supply is mounted 1/8 an inch too high. The case puts strain on the connector pulling the pins from the solder connection. When I opened the power supply the connector was simply hanging from the ground wire. I've resoldered it, but I think as the solder gets warm from current, while not liquid, will distort enough to pull free from the board again. I even noticed that board had bent from the stress.
I tried not to tighten up the screws too much to reduce the stress, however that leaves a slight space between the connecter and the body of the case. Not a good idea with 120 volts floating around about a 1/4 of an inch away.
May request a new power supply just to be safe. Assuming the problem has been fixed in a new batch.
Hey guys, maybe a bit of copper to drop the connection down 1/8th of an inch so everything lines up correctly?
The problem is with the case opening, it was cut in the wrong place (too high). Adding some copper stand-offs to offset the connector is one solution, but the proper solution is to fix the power supply case opening.
You can do this yourself by enlarging the opening to allow the power connector to sit "lower" in the opening. In the picture below the red line shows where to make the cut, and remove about 1/8". I used a hobby knife, but you can also use a file, the plastic is soft enough to make it easy and fast to work with.
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